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�BOWERS
MODEL 1A
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WINNER OF THE J962 EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT
ASSOCIATION DESIGN CONTEST FOR A I.O:W-COST,
EASY TO BUILD AND FLY SPORT AIRPLANE
Design and Instructions by Peter Mo Bowers
Drawings by James A. Morrow
Typing by Marlene Lemire
This is Document Number
Airplane Serial Number
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Airplane Registration
Seattle, Washington - February 20, 1963
Th ird ?r ~ntin g - Octeber 1965
PUBLISHED BY PETER M. BOWERS, 13826 DES MOINES WAV SO.
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.3F~'l'TLE 68, PRICE - $15 .OO
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CONTENTS
General Arrangement Drawi.ng
Introduction
Section 1 • • • • • • •
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••••••••••
Section 2 • • • • • • . . • • • • • • • • •
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Fuselage
Landing Gear
Section 3 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Tail Surfaces
Section h • • • • • . . .. • • • • • • • ., ,. ,. • The Wing
Section 5 • • • • . • .
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•••• Powerplant Installation
Section 6 • • • • • • • . • • Miscellaneous Installations
Section 7 • • • • • • • • • • • • ,, •
Section 8 • • • • • • • ,, • •
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.Covering
Assembly, Test, and Flying
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BOWERS FLY BABY
Model IA
SPECIFICATIONS
Wing span
.... 28 ft.
Length
. 18 ft. 10½ in.
Height (folded)
... 6 ft. 11 in.
Tail span
.. 7 ft. 11½ in.
Wing chord
..... 4 ft. 6 in.
Wing area
.. 120 sq. ft.
Empty weight
.... 605 lbs.
Gross weight .... . .......... 925 lbs.
Fuel
. 12-16 gals.
Power
... . .... ...... 65-85 hp
Cruising speed
110-115 mph
Rate of climb
850-1100 fpm
Construction
. . ..... All wood
Airfoil
.. ...... NACA 4412
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SCALE- - IN FEET
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L LLJ.....L------1._
3
4
5
6
7
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B
10_......._,,=-~
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INTRODUSTION
THE AIRPLANE
FLY BABY is a st :-ac:·.:ra-:__l.y s:i.mp:.s and ea s7--:c~fly a.:..rp~ane desig:-::ed ~.c
the requirements of ~he Expe~imental Ai r~ ~af~ Associa~ion for home construction and storage i:n a spar~e 7 : x 3 11 x 20 u . whi:,h i.s eqaivalent to the
standard home garage~
Great emphasis has beer, placed '..:tpon 3afe fl.igh.-::. c:haracteristi~s and good
lcw speed rerfcrma~ce foT' t,akeoff and landi~g at 'S ·)rr.e sacrifice of high
speed. The structure has been dAsigned fer standard airplane engines
from 65 to 85 horsepower ar:d the ae~cdynamic f ea tu res are of sizes and
proportions su::_t.ed to ohtait:i!;g t.hP. best all-around performance in this
power range~ BecausP. nf this" r,here :i.s net encr:1gh advantage to be gained
from using engines o:· higher powe!' to offset the ccst and weight penalties:-,,
unless an all-cut ~ernbati~ ~achine is desired ~ ~or this, the 120 horsepower Lycoming 0-2900 would t,e ideaL Desh abla mcdif:.cations for safely
accomplishing this powe::- increase are presented i:n appropriate sections
of this document : but the weig:1-: increase will be detrimental to low
landing speed and other 9uBaby Bnggyg~ handling .~ harac·;e:r::.stics.
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Allcwa~.: E=: has been made v n.owever s f o:r the .fact that many builders will
want to :-naKe :nino:c departur·es froTI". t ,he basir: de,3~_gf!> and several acceptable
v.:: :ri2ti er·~ s have been in:c luaed in the drawings a:s permitted by the simple
basic layout~ Howe,,rer "' no changes should be made in really basic structure or in t::1e size, setting:- o:'."' location of the flight surfaces,.
Low wing mcncpla:ne .configura 4.,i,J::i was chosen for the ba.si~ FLY BABY design
for several reason5 - st.r:Jc·::,urai simplicity J suitability for low-·cost
easy-to-rig wire bracing to f~selage and landing gear., maximum visibility
for the pilot,; and ease o: pi:o-:. en+~ry to t.he cockp~.t ...
For those desiring to convert tb.e basic low wing FLY BABY to an entirely
different machine, supp'J..emen-+:,a:.--y drawings are available for biplane wings
which can be fitted to the same fuselage_, tail, and ianding gear as FLY
BABY lB, and parasol monop.,·ane wings as FLY BABY lC. The basic low wing
monoplane is FLY BABY lA,, The :i.B and :s wi~gs are not designed -r,o fcld"
As a biplane., FLY BABY lB is ~omparab'l.e: t.o mos-:.. other 1-.i.ome-huilt biplanes
with tne exception ttat it i3 s~~ight::.y larger t,han average. resulving in
lighter wing loading and imprcYed takeoff and landing characteristics,,
The use of sweepback er~ be th wings is t.o permit, interchangeability cf wings
between biplane and monoplane arrangemen:.s without changing the pilot. ns
seat J which was origina .~l:v~ determj_ned by the wing location and balance
requirements of the :8w wing mon~plane with straight wings. To keep the
pilot behind -:he 1·1pper wing cer.~·e:- se·.:::t.~_on instead of under it _, the upper
wing had to be :i.ocated forw:1rd o.:· the lower, with sweep back used to bring
the cen+.,er o!: p~ess:ire aft, to the proper :ocaticn.
Similarly, the paraso: wing o! FLY BABY lC is also swept. back:.. since it
fits to the biplane "J.pper wi11g ~enter se:ticn, This sweepback prov-ides
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BA~--lC with t wo great ad·rnntages over most s t raight-wing parasols in
that the pilc t has much better Yisibility upward since he is behind instead
of under the center section _, and can enter the cockpit easily instead of
squeezing in under the center se(c ticn" Tall pilots will appreciate this-
Because of differ e nces i:0 ·,1\i:i::ig bra cing ., the biplane a.'1d parasol monoplane
versions can use sbgle·< .. 2 g sprir, g n:e1.al landing gear legs instead of the
manda tory rigid gea.r of FLY BABY J.k , Al '~ vers ions can be fitted wit h Edo
D-1070 pcn.toons or equii;;·alen.t home=btdlt versions~ The size o.f the low
wing and the location of its 3-,ress points make substitution of struts
for the wire brac ing undesirable from botl: a structural and aerodynamic
standpoint,_
THE MATERIALS
The structure of the standard FLY BABY is all wood~ which was chosen in
consideration of re l ati vely low cost) general availability, and the shop
facilities, tooling, and skill possessed by the person undertaking the
construction of a full-scale airplane for the first time¢ Anyone who
can get a passing grade in a High School woodshop course should be able
to success.fully build a FLY BABYo
Metal work JJ and especially welding!' has been kept to an absolute minimum,_.
There is so lit.t.le of the lat-ce:- that the builder can cut his material to
size and then take it t ~o a professional shop to have the work done quickly
without compromising the 00 do-it -yourselfifi requirements of airplanes to be
licensed in the amateur~built category,, For those who feel strongly about
the desi!"abil ity of a steel t ube fuselage 1 or even tail surfaces J supplementary d:r.a wings are available fo r makin g th ese c omponents of steelo
At the time FLY BABY was built 3 in 1960 ) the use of certain components from
production commercial aircr aft. was permitt ed,, These included such items as
engine mounts, cowlings _9 fuel tanks:) and in some cases~ complete landing
gear .. Ea:rl ier 3 the FAA had dis couraged the use of cut-down or modified
98 major 90 components such as wings
Since 1961,
9 tail surfa:ces .9 and fuselages c
the use of the previously enume~ated items have c ome under increasingly
critical scrutiny on the assumptpion tha-t their use defeats the utamateur
built,11 qu a l ific a t.ion -o FLY BABY ~an use many of these items 9 including
slightly mod i..fied Pipe:r Cub :J Taylorc!'a:-t..;; an Aeron-:;a landing gear" If
you want, to incorpcrat.e these items in yo ur FLY BABY~ discuss the matter
with your F ".A,, A., inspectc:- fi:rs-v_9 and if approval is granted ., GET IT IN
WRITING , either in a letter or in the a irplane logbook ..
Bills of mate:ria:!. s for the ne ~essary sizes and quantities of raw stock are
listed in each of the app::-opri at,e chapters., Such i terns as wing spars .,
longerons J and rib cap s t :"ips rcan be or de red from a lumber mill cut to the
proper c·: -oss=sec:·::.io:r, dirr.ensicns but not tc the finished length with out
compromising t ,he 73 ama:..eur~h,1 il:,n requirement . .
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THE PLANS
The method of presenting the plans for FLY BABY is quite different from the
traditional q'Roll of Blueprints" approach o Instead of a maze of full-size
and meticulously-dimensioned drawings, most i terns a.re presented in reduced
scale with accompanying step-by=step pictorial and written instructions of
a single ,c onvenient loose= leB.f documenL The isometric drawings are not
always to true scale ~ In some ~ases 9 individual parts are drawn in oversize to emphasize a detail or an assembly method or undersize to avoid
overlap or to fit into the available space~ In such cases, the important.
dimensions are given~
In recognition of the fact that close tolerances are hard to work to, even
without the usual home-workshop handicap of inexperience~ sub-standard
working areaJ and bare-minimum tooling~ many structural items have been
designed with the deliberate intention that their final dimensions be ·
established by the procedure known as HFit on Assembly" .. This eliminates
wasted material and time-consuming rework when inaccuracies, which are not
in themselves critical, prevent two mating parts from fitting together
properly? Because of this concept, many of the parts are not dimensioned
in as much detail as would ordinarily be expectedo
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The drawings also anticipate certain problems in the procurement of hardware
and equipmentG In many cases, sizes for sheet metal or tubular parts are a
recommended minimum onlye The airplane is of such a size that the weight
penalty resulting from a change of metal thickness from 1/16" to 3/32" or
even l/8 1i on these parts is negligibleo ThereforeJ it is not necessary to
spend a lot of time and effort trying to locate material of the exact
specified size when plenty of perfectly acceptable substitute material
may be right at handc
The same reasoning also applies to such "used hardware" items as fuel tanks,
brakes, and brake master cylinderso Mechanical brakes are just as suitable
as the hydraulic type used on the prototype FLY BABY~ Since there are so
many possible combinations of brakes and actuators it would be pointless
to illustrate them all in the drawingso If the builder istco inexperienced
in aircraft practice to determine acceptable part and material substitutions
within the general intent of these drawings, he should, in the absence of
experienced neighbors, consult a licensed airframe mechanic at the nearest
airport or a Federal Avaiat.ion Agency Safety and Maintenance Inspector
(under U.S. GovntOJ Dept◊ of Commerce in the telephone directory)a
THE WORKING AREA AND CONDITIONS
Building an airplane is not a big jobo It is a whole collection of little
ones whose degree of simplicity or difficulty, independent of the builder's
skill, is influenced tc a large degree by the available work area and conditions" Airplanes s imi la:r to FLY BABY have been built in surpris ingJ.y i.llor:ical
placesJ so it can be done without formal shop facilities.
Hcweve~, suitable sp~ce where the work can be left standing is desirable8
Since FLY BABY breaks down t.o components of convenient size, a standard onecar garage with a work bench across one end is suitable for the entire
job~ Minimum area for bu:ilding the wing is enough to lay the 4-1/2 x 13
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foot panel flat at a convenient working level and still allow room to work
around each side and the ends with space available for the standing tools.
The fuselage is just over 1h feet long without the engine mount or rudder
installed, and is two feet wide o Without the landing gear, the fuselage
can be taken through a standard door located to permit n nearly straight
approach to it. Depending on the relationships of various doors, this means
that FLY BABY can be built i n many rooms of a regular house and then be removed without knocki ng out a wall in the classic "boat-in-the-basement"
traditiono
Since the weldwood glue recommended for FLY BABY must be used at temperatures
above 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and the application of dope to the fabric should
also be done at this temperature, heat control in the working area is essentialo Suitable glues are available for lower temperatures, but with no heat
control the doping may have to be deferred until warm weather.
Doping should not be done in a confined area without adequate force ventilation anyhow, so unless a suitable shop is available, the job should be done
outdoors in good weather or taken to another shop. Nothing will kill family
approval of a home-built airplane project faster than a house full of dope
fumes.
THE TOOLS
As with the working area, FLY BABY can be built with a bare minimum of tools
but the job is greatly simplified by having a proper selection for the various
jobso Items marked with an asterisk(*) in the following list are considered
absolutely essentialo If these are not on hand in the home shop, material
will have to be taken elsewhere for the necessary worko Aside from a suitable
power saw and drill press, the most essential tool will be an electric hand
drill and an extension cord and lighto This is because so much work will be
done on and inside the airplane rather than on the bench as the job progresses.
SAWS
Table or radial arm saw*
Coping saw or jigsaw
Bandsaw or bayonet saw with stand*
Hacksaw*
Small strongback saw or hand saw
DRILLS
Bench drill or drill press*
Electric hand drill*
Drill bits to max ., diao 3/8 91 (with 1/4" shank for hand drill)*
FILES
Suitable flat, rounded, and rat-tail files for wood and metal finishing*
Coarse wood rasp
Rotary file for electric drill
Rotary rasp for electric drill (also called "Scotch Plane")
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C-CLAMPS
Minimum 4 6-inch *
Minimum 2 dozen 3-inch
*
VISE (steel)*
TACK HAMMER*
BENCH SANDING DISC
BENCH GRINDING WHEEL
BLOCK PLANES
SCREW DRIVERS*
TIN SNIPS*
DRAW KNIFE OR SPOKESHAVE
THREE FOOT CARPENTERS SQUARE*
6v STEEL MEASURING TAPE
SOLDERING IRON
PINKING SHEARS
vVELDING RIG
SAW HORSES (2 minimum)*
GLUE BRUSHES*
PAPER CUPS (unwaxed 9 for glue and varnish)*
COLD CHISEL OR WIRE CUTTERS*
l/8 8ij NICOPRESS *
BOX OR OPEN-END WRENCHES TO 3/4" ..._
WORK PRACTICES
Many work hours can be saved and the various jobs simplified by organizing the
work in an efficient manner. While circumstances will dictate different
procedures for different people because of equipment, availability of materials,
etc. 3 a few time-saving suggestions can be followed by almost everyone:
CUT AS MANY PIECES OF A SIZE AS POSSIBLE AT ONE TIME. Much time is
wasted in re-setting the tools (power saw, drill, etco) when pieces
are cut singly or a few at a time on an "as-needed" basis., Consideration must be given, however 9 to the stipulation in F.AoAe Manual 18
that wood surfaces for gluing should not be exposed for more than
24 hours prior to gluingQ
MIX GLUE WITH SPECIFIC JOBS IN MIND. Much expensive glue is wasted by
mixing too much for a particular jobo The Hpot lifett of Weldwood glue
is only four hours 9 so it can 1 t be saved for tomorrowo If quite a few
items are to be glued over a fairly long continuous period, like an
afternoon of installing wing rib corner blocks, plan on mixing several
small batches during that time~ Small batches are easier to mix and
there is no question of approaching the pot life limit as the job goes
ono Similarly, take precautions against running out of glue in the
middle of a big and fast job such as laminating wing tip bowso Mix
several small batches rather than one big one 5 or have a helper mixing
new ones as you use the firsto
The best applicator for Weldwood glue is a 1/2'' to 3/4" paint brush ..
If the brush is washed out in hot water be.fo:r-e the glue sets, one
brush can last for months& Weldwood is cheaper in 5-pound cans, but
constant opening of the can to take out small quantities ages it
rapidly() It is best to buy it. in small canso
PLAN VARNISHING SO AS NOT TO BLOCK OTHER WORKa Try to save varnishing
that will hold up other work in a particular area for the end of the
work period so that it can dry overnight or between sessions. When wet
varnish is on some parts while others are being worked on, be sure that
shavings and chips don ~t fall on the varnisho Remember that dust from
saws and grinders can float all over the shop and settle on a wet
varnish job clear across the room from the tool.
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�Donnt open the varnish can o Peke two nail holes on opposite sides of
the lid and seal them with pieces of masking tape~ Pull the tape and
pour varnish into a paper cup for mixing with turpentine for small jobs.
The can gets messy if varnish is poured over the lip, and after several
openings for pcuring smal~ quantities ~ the varnish begins to thicken
and scum over ~ Altr..ough cheaper by the gailon J it is best to buy
varnish in quar:. c.ans -- Be care::ul ,!:!JT to use WAXED cups for varnish,
glue, or dope. llHct .:: 1ps 81 are fine <·
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USE SYSTEMATIC WORK HABITSo Try to plan the work en indivjdual jobs
;iheac for severa2. days sc as to have all the necessary material on hand
and organize the most effi~ient sequence for doing things. Much time
can be lost by wondering "what to do next?" and then figuring out how
to go about ito Try to work on related jobs in sequence so that wood
parts for several can be cut at one time, etc~ Try to set up specified
times for working _, with an ideal objective of being able to get some
little thing, even if it us only removing the clamps from yesterdayvs
work, done every day.
AVOID OBSTACLES TO PROGRESSe One of the major roadblocks to completion of any home workshop prcject is objection by authoritative members
of the family if legitimate family obligations and relationships are
neglected for the projecto This is a political matter beyond the scope
of this technical document, but is nevertheless a major item for consideration. Other than the family situation, there are three major
human causes of wasted time in construction projects~
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The first is the eager friend who is anxious t,o be helpful but doesn I t
know anything about building airplanes or even handling toolso By the
time you show him how, check his work ~ and generally do it over, you
could have done it several times yourself in addition to the job you
were working ono The exact and highly desirable opposite of this type,
and unfortunately very rare, is the experienced person who can be handed
a job and forgotten for a while as he gets it done with no fuss.
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The second time-killer 3 more often plural than singular, is the curious
and friendly type who drops around from time to time "to see how you are
doing" and brings a friend along who has to have the whole project explained in detail from the very beginning., No work can be done at all
during most of these visits .? and the visitors are very seldom inclined
or even qualified to help o A sub-category of this t.YJE is the one with
whom a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, and who is always trying
to improve your design to deat..h by suggesting all sorts of things from
little refinements t.o major rearrangements that will be made with YOUR
time, money, and materialso
One unforeseen by-prod 1.1ct, cf both categories of this second type is the
added expense to the ove:ra:..: job resulting from the amount of your
gro~eries .;' coffee beer .: et •~,, J that they consume while sitting around
keeping you :~om working~
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The third major thief of your working time is yourselfo As the plane
begins to go together it is entirely too easy to gaze dreamily at it
by the hour, admiring your own handiwork and engaging in all oorts of
flights of fancy while sitting i n the cockpit of an unfinished fuselage
perched on a pair of sawhorses o Even if you don i t feel particularly
ambitious when you go out to the shop ~ or time is short, try to make
some tangible pro gress o Don vt goof off for one whole work period by
kidding yourself with the thought that you v11 really bear down on it
"tomorrow" or even "next week""
Overdoing the
some cases it
may be such a
last that you
standards and
improvements can be a personal matter, too, although in
stems from improving skill as the job progresseso There
difference between the first few ribs you built and the
want to scrap the early ones and do them over. Your own
time/cost considerations will be your only guides hereo
RECORDS AND PAPERWORK
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Keep a record of all purchases of material for your FLY BABY, whether new or
usedo This will keep you informed of actual costs, will enable you to answer
the inevitable question that you will hear hundreds of times: "How much did
it cost ya, mister?", and will enable you to help friends who are considering
a homebuilt and yourself when planning anothero Most important of all, however, it will enable you to establish a true cash value for your machine when
the tax assessor comes aroundo If he is not experienced in evaluting aircraft
(some states tax airplanes as personal property while others use an excise
tax) he may arbitrarily assign an unfairly high value in the absence of substantiating figures o Also, sales slips can show that state sales taxes have
been paid on the raw materials, another concern of the tax people when the
plane is finishedo
Try, too, to keep at least a rough check on your working timeo The nextmost-asked question from the spectators is: "How long did it take you to
build it?" There is satisfaction in being able to snap off a concise and
authoritative answer, either in terms of man-hours or days, weeks, and
monthso
It is a very good idea to start the airplane logbook at the time you start
construction o Information as to the source and grade of raw materials can
form a valuable historical record, and a record can be kept of essential
pre-finish FAA inspectionso Since a homebuilt is not pinned down to an
approved bill of materials that is a matter of record as in the case of typecertificated production models, a record should be included of the type of
covering material, type of dope whether nitrate or butyrate, and even the
type of hydraulic fluid used in the brakes o You may forget over subsequent
years, or a new owner not know at all if it isn't recorded, with a resulting
complication of maintenance problems o
Other paperwork directly concerned with registration and certification of
your airplane is covered in Chapter 8, ASSEMBLY, TEST, AND FLYINGe
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CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURES
Those who are general ly fami l iar with aircraft construction and repair
procedures should have no t rouble at al l in any phase of building FLY BABYo
Those unfamili ar with aircraft practi~e 9 or skilled only in one specialized
field .9 shoul d c onsult t heir mor e experienced friends before proceeding o In
any casa J i t is strcugly reccmmended that anyone buil ding FLY BABY or any
other homebuiLt air pl ane obt a i n a copy of Feder al Aviation Agency Manual 18,
MAINTENANCE , REPAIR AND ALTERATION OF AIR FRAMES i PROPELLERS, AND APPLIANCES,
available from the Goverrnnent Printing Office ~ Washington 25, D .. Co:; or some
aircraft suppl y :·tores for $L SOo This book i s VVThe Bible 18 on all phases of
aircraft c onst.!"act ion and repair procedure ..
It is impossibl e t o de t a i l fabricat ion procedures down to the fundamental
level of how to hold the hamme ro The drawings and instruction pre-suppose
a competent skill leve l ~ There are j however J certain construction procedures
associated with aircraft standards of qualit y that should be mentionedo
WOOD
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Wood aircraft constr uc t ion differs c onsiderably from tradit ional cabinet and
furniture-making procedure o There are no mort ises, tennons~ or dovetail
joints in aircrafto All wood-t o-wood joints are by glue in shear or by
boltingo Bolt heads or nut s bearing against bare wood opposite a metal
fitting should be backed up by l ar ge-diamet er wood washers. Wood screws
are never used for jo i ning ; small nails are used to hold glue joints
under pressure while dr ying and then become entirely redundanto Wood surfaces are protect ed f r om damage during clamping by use of clamping backup
blocks to dis tr ibute t he l oad o
With the exception of the wi ng spars and the slotted rib cap strips, it is
much cheaper for the builder t o buy his spruce lumber in planks and saw it to
size himself than to have i t finished at a mill~ The cap strips can be cut
The cap s t rips can be cut f r om st andard l/4iv "Cap Strip Stock" on any circular saw, but cutting the 1/89~ x 1/ 881 s l ot calls for exactly the right size
bladeo A "pl aner" bl ade should be used for finish rip cuts on all nonplywood wooden part s in FLY BABY o Suppl ier s of aircraft grade wood that
advertise in SPORT AVIATION ~ magazine of The Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA) have been advised of the size and quantity of the FLY BABY
materials , and will be able t o make "package" deals at fixed prices.
MRTAL
While there is very little me t a l in FLY BABY 3 certain practices must be
observed ,, Most of the S oAcEo 4130 sheet steel fittings can be bent cold by
hammering in a vise o However 9 the jaws should have a slight radius to prevent serious weakening of the metal at the outside of the bend~ Rounding
off the corners of met a l part s is ne t necessary 3 but is a matter of craftsmanshipo ALL metal parts shoul d be prot ected against corrosion by suitable
painting, either with Zinc Chr omat e Primer or a rust inhibitor like Rust-oleumo
The best method is to have t hem cadmi um. pl ated o
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MISCELLANEOUS HARDWARE
'l'he nuts and bolts are called out in the bills of materials, or parts lists, by
the "AN" number 9 meaning Army-Navy standard., These can be ordered from aircraft stores or mail-order houses by the numbers, which have easily identified
meanings" An AN-3-7A bolt is 3/16n in diameter as indicated by the first number, which varies by sixteenths of an incho The second number indicates the
length, the distance from under the head to the far end of the threads in
eighths of an inch. However 9 8/8 do not make an inch in this case9 An AN-4-10
is a l/4u bolt one inch long and an AN-.5-11 is a 5/16u, bolt 1-1/8" long, and so
on. The letter "An on the end of the number means the oolt is NOT drilled for a
cotter pin. With no letter, itvs drilled. All bolts used in FLY BABY are
cadmium-plated steel.
In aircraft installation, it is customaryj but not mandatory, to install
bolts with the heads pointing either forward relative to the airplane, out- board or upwardso Where bolts through wood in FLY BABY are loaded in shear,
the area of the bolt is enough so that the hole doesn 9 t have to be bushed.
The only bushings actually required are for protection in wear areas, as
where wing attach bolts are frequently inserted and removed~ When installing wide wood washers under nuts or bolt heads that bear on wood, be sure
to varnish the wood UNDER the washer before installing it permanently.
Except where specifically indicated.? all nuts used in FLY BABY are AN-36.5
type elastic stop nuts~ Likewise, moving metal parts are joined by clevis
pins secured with cotter pins except as noted~ Washers should be used
between the cotter pin and the metal surface.
The 1600-pound-minimum strength turnbuckles are secured on the fork end by clevis
pins while the wires through the eye are reinforced with AN-100-4 thimbles and
secured with 1/Bn Nico sleeveso By using the same size of wire all over the airplane, the wire purchase and fastening problems are simplified. It · should not
be necessary to buy a 1/8" Nico press tool ( they cost about-t-22 .00), for many
mechanics and most aircraft repair shops have them. Turnbuckles are safetied
by either single or double .wrap with #41 safety wire per Manual l8o
When buying nuts and bolts 9 washers, cotter pins , etc., donit get just the
exact number specified by the parts lists.. lJo 0i1e ever has too many of
these items. For AN-3 bolts and AN-393 clevis pins especially, buy a good
variety of lengths between the longest and shortest specified. No one ever
seem to have a surplusof AN-960=10 washers on hand, either.
A SUGGESTION
If you are completely inexperienced in aircraft matters, it is
suggested that you associate yourself with a local chapter of the
Experimental Aircraft Associationj a national organization devoted
to amateur aircraft builderso Write to Headquarters 9 EAA, 9711 Wo
Forest Park Drive, Hales Corners~ Wisconsin, for the address of the
chapter nearest your home. Membership in EAA is $10.00 per year.
Practically all of the items you will need to build your FLY BABY
are advertised in the pages of SPORT AVIATION~ the EAA magazine,
and some advertisers offer discounts to memberso Another source of
information on homebuilts and how to tackle the problems associated
with them is the book GUIDE TO HOMEBUILTS by Peter Mo Bowers, available from Sports Car Press, Sylvester Court~ Eo Norwalk, Connecticut,
or local bookstores for $199.5e
ENOUGH OF GENERALITIES!
GET TO WORK ON FLY BABY!
Page i
�.,
(
SECTION 1 - THE FUSELAGE
The all-wood fuselage of FLY BABY is both a simple and a rugged structure,
and lends itself easil y t o minor alterations to accommodate different landing
gear , cockpit enc l osure 9 windshield, etc o The main structural cross-members
that support t he landing gear are entirely independent of the key wing-support
structure, so these members can be moved around as desired without affecting
anything else ? The turtledeck structure aft of the cockpit is rem:,vable oo
that flying is possible with an alternate open cockpit or closed canopy
arrangement o
Some people may be concerned over the absence of a "Turnover Structure" behind
the cockpit. Such an item cannot be installed without building up a structure
above the pilot 0 s head, which is not compatible with the classic lines of this
traditional open-cockpit design. Instead, the box-spar vertical fin structure does this job and only breaking the fuselage in two will keep it from
serving its purpose of protecting the pilot should the plane go over on its
back following a landing in rough terrain.
The fuselage is built by making two side layouts on a flat surface just like
a "Box" model airplane. Much of the complex gusseting of older wood-truss
homebuilt fuselages has been eliminated by skinning each side with 1/8 11
plywood, which itself acts as a super gusset as well as adding strength to
the fuselage by its function as a shear web. In the nose section, a second
inner plywood shear web is added to help transfer the engine mount loads
through bolts to the fuselage. The arrangement of the fuselage truss members
aft of the cockpit has been carefully chosen to simplify the joint-and-gusset
problem so that only two types of joints result. Because of the plywood
covering, the diagonal side members do not carry loads as they do in a welded
steel or an ordinary wood truss. Their main function is to support and
stiffen the plywoodo
Up forward, the main cross-load carrying members for the landing gear and wing
supports are built rigidly into the double bottom longeron structure of each
side~ - By the time these are anchored by the end blocks and inner plywood
skin, NOTHING is going to move them. If you manage to knock any one of these
four main members loose you're going to need a whole new airplane. The
double longerons, boxed on both side with plywood, result in a "Double Keel"
of great strength for maximum safetyo The heavy plywood gussets and metal
fittings at the landing gear attach points eliminate the need for diagonal
bracing across the bottom in this area. It is believed that the fuselage is
adequate for 125 horsepower engines as presently designed. The only problem
is one of balance because of the increased weight of the Jarger engine.
Normally, fuselage structure is stiffened by diagonal members across each bay.
This is impossible in t he area occupied by the pilot, so the problem is taken __
care of in the cockpit by the use of quarter-circle -corner bows covered with
plywood , which serve the same purpose and leave the spaces openo
The main fuselage structure is glued together, with various attachments bolted
ono For maximum fftrength ar:rl to avoid dependence on glue in such critical
areas o the tail post and the front bulkhead, which supports the engine mount,
Page 1-1
�are bolted to the doubled main side structure through metal fittingso
Exterior wood surfaces are protected from the weather by fabric laid on
over the wood and all inside wood is varnished.
(
FUSELAGE - BILL OF MATERIALS
WOOD
Number Material
Dimensions
4
1/8" X 4 1 X 8"
Sides, gussets, etco
3/4" (4 pieces 15 1 ,2 pieces 7') Longerons, diagonals
Diagonals
1/2 11 X 3/4"
124 ft
25 ft
7
120 ft
2
l
1
1
l
1
1
2
2
4
24
5
8
2
plywood
spruce
spruce
spruce
any wood
spruce
plywood
plywood
plywood
hardwood
spruce
spruce
hardwood
spruce
spruce
spruce
spruce
spruce
spruce
1/4"
X
111
Use
61
X
3/8" x 3/8"
3/8" X 3/8"
1/4" X 4 1 X
3/8" X 2 1 X
3,14" X 2 1 X
2
1"
X
3/8
11 X
11 X
3/8
3/4"
X
ti X
up to 15'
52 11
X
4
32"
41
1
9 11
2"
X
11 X
12 11
3n
3
1-1/2 11
X
20"
3/4 11 X 1-1/2tt X 12"
1/4 11 X 1/4" X 16"
1/16 11 X 3/4 11 X 36H
3/4 11 X 5n X 22-1/2"
1/2 11
1/2 11
X
X
1/2 11 X 18 11
2ft X 4n
Turtledeck stringers
Belly stringers
Fin flanges
Formers, anchors
Firewall former
Bows*, gussets
Tail spring anchor
Fin filler
Fin filler
Station 1 uprights
Station 11 uprights
Underfin flanges
BowsHStation 2-5 I-pieces
Floor beam flanges
Hinge tube supports
HARDWARE
2
14
1h
1
7
7
4
4
16
7
7
23
36
72
*
ff
iHHt-
dural or steel
bolts
nuts
steel
bolts
washers
steel
aluminum
bolts
bolts
nuts
nuts
nutplates
wood screws
nails
weldwood glue
1/8" x 1-1/2 11 x 22" rt. angle
AN-4-14.A (or longer) -iHHf-
AN-365-424
0032 ( or more) x
Engine mount anchors
Attach above
4-1/2 11 x 10-1/2" Tail post anchor
AN-3-12A
AN-960-10
0093 11 X 3-3/8tt X 5-1/8 11
1/4" x l" x 3-3/8"
AN-3-J..4A
Wing wire anchors
Wing wire anchors
AN-6-16
AN-
AN-365-1032
AN-366-F-832
AN-545-4-4
1/2 11 #20
Cowling hold-down
Hold nutplates
Alternate to building up laminated bows.
Alternate to expensive 3/4" plywood ..
See Figure 1-16 for alternate installation.
Page 1-2
�(
FUSELAGE LAYOUT
The main requirement for building the fuselage is a flat working area at
least 2-1/2 x 15 feet, preferably a bench that nails can be driven into.
The shop floor will do if a c ouple of 3/L." plywood sheets are butted
together and laid down.
1.
Using the dimensions of Figures 1-1 and 1-2, lay out a full size fuselage side view, using the top of the top longeron as the reference line.
The curve of the bottom longeron is drawn most easily by using one of
the longerons themselves as a drawing spline.
2.
Cut about 60 hold-down blocks from 1/2" plywood, l" x 3u. Having the
blocks thinner than the fuselage members allows the plywood skin to be
laid on the fuselage frame while still held by the blocks and if made
of plywood the small blocks will not split when nailed down.
J.
Put the top longeron in position and hold it with enough pairs of blocks
as shown to hold it securely. Do not have the blocks too tight or it
will be hard to lift the completed frame out of the blocks. By using
the same blocks twice without moving them both side frames will match
exactly.
NOTE
Put pieces of wax paper on the board at each glue joint
to keep the glue from sticking the frame to the board.
4.
Put the lower longeron in position, starting at the rear with pairs of
blocks and working forward. Note the extra length ahead of the forward
upright (Station 1), held by an extra pair of blocks, to give leverage
for the final bend. More "Inside" blocks will be used on the curve than
"Outside" blocks. The pair of blocks "X" is located as shown at the end
of the straight section of the lower longeron. Block "Y" is located at
the key point for forming the bend in the longeron.
5.
Put in the intermediate (straight) lower longeron between Stations 1
and 6, holding it with pairs of blocks. After a snug fit to the lower
longeron at Station 6 is obtained, remove the longeron, add glue to the
ends, and reinstall. Cut and fit in 3/4" plywood filler block per Detail A of Figure 1-1 and glue in place.
6.
Cut and install the uprights between the lower and upper longerons at
Station 3 and 5 through 8, holding each with two pairs of blocks. The
fit should be such that the uprights must be pressed into place but not
forced hard.
NOTE
Glue on butt Joins like these does not strengthen the structure or hold it together, it merely seals the open end grain
of the wood.
Page 1-3
�_., _ _______
r
,.
83q (<;,'~I",!
!EE E
·G
FIG .. 1-3
SEE
''F ,, ·
FIG.
•-3
I·
22 i'z
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,-,
51:.£. ''/:X'
F\G.\-~
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SE.E ,,
C"'
FIG. \-7~~~~
1/4 SOLT---+-~...
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PLYWOOD
l SE. E. \\
B''
FIG .. 1-3
SEE
t»\G. I-:!>
FIG. 1-3
............. ~~I~(
$EE. ''D"
_ Ye PLYWOOD
F\u' I - ?
~x 1Yix IY{.DURAL f1NGL.E..
A-A
·.
·
.:·
G"
SEE \\ B"
II
.
F\GURE. 1-1
FORWARD
FU5E:L~GE.
L~ OUT
... . .
�I• '6'')
90I/ ,7
·
SEE
II
F"' ./
SEE ''I#.
FIG, 1-3
f-3
FIG
.
=>0
,,
33
,,
L
12
F\GURE 1-2.
. AFT
FU~E.L~GE.
L~YOUr
B-B
�Treat the Station 9-10 diagonal as an upright, using two pairs of holding
blockso See Detail Hof Figure 1-2 for spacing at Station 9. Notice
that the upright at Station 6 is 1/8" thinner than all the others as
shown in Detail F of Figure 1/2, and that the Station 3 and .5 pieces
between the two lower longerons MUST line up with the upper pieceso
Do NOT install the 3/h" x 1-1/2 11 upright at Station 11 at this timeo
(
7o
Cut and fit the forward Station 1-2 diagonal.
only one block is needed to hold it in place.
3-4 diagonal.
80
Cut and fit the Station 2-3, 4-.5, and all the remaining diagonals toward
Station lOo If cut and fitted properly, no blocks will be necessary to
hold them in place., All diagonal-aft of Station 6 are 1/2" x 3/4"o
When properly fitted,
Repeat for the Station
9. Fit a piece of 1/8" x 1-1/2 11 plywood over the thin upright at Station 6
and glue it in place per Detail F of Figure 1-1.
the glue dries •
Hold with nails until
10.
Cut a piece of 1/8 11 plywood from a standard 4' x 8 1 sheet to slightly
over the dimensions from Station 6 to a few inches aft ofStation 11.
Be sure that the top edge is straight, and square the forw~rd edge
(Station
6) to ito
0
11.
Lay this plywood on a suitable open-end work area like a workbench or
table-saw table and scarf a 12:l bevel along the Station 6 edge per
Detail F of Figure 1-lo This can be done with a sharp block plane, a
good draw knife if you are good, or with a "Scotch Plane".
120
Lay the plywood in place to be sure that it fits. If it does, hold it
down with a couple of aircraft nails driven in part way, and lay out the
centerlines of all the structural members that the plywood will be glued
too The easiest way to do this is to project the centerlines of the
diagonals and uprights beyond the structure onto the work surface before
the plywood is laid down. Centerline for upper longeron can be located
by measuring in from the edge. The sane process can be used for the
bottom longeron if the lower edge of the plywood has been trimmed to it.
13.
Make up at least two nailing strips 23 11 long per Figure 1-3, with nails
started at approximately 1-inch intervals. These are for use in the splice
area., Some really meticulous builders use nailing strips everywhere to
hold plywood to structure only until the glue sets, but it is hardly
worth the effort for a design like this. At this station, the nails
must be removed because another piece of plywood goes over the joint.
14.
Cut two pieces of .5/8" x 1/2" wood to fit under the plywood splice plate
at Station 6 as a backup for the nailing.
1.5 0 Mix up enough glue to cover all the structure from Station 6 aft and get
it on the frame FAST with a 1/2" to 111 paintbrush.
16 0 Lay the plywood in place, and start nailing. Approximately 1-inch fl)acing
for 1/2-inch Noo 20 nails is about right. Don't bother to actually measure
Page 1-6
�""
.,
22..
OUTER RE.~R ----PLYWOOD SKI~
\\
. II
-E
~;4' _PLY wOOo
,, r·,,
\
.
r
I
M
II
Yz x l X'3
~~II
:
II
PLYWOOD BLOCKS
'IZ. No · 'LO NA. t LS
ll
.· '--::
2 ·I¼'' AIL~
'PER ?>LOCKS.
\/tG OR Ve' X t"x 2. ~N
PLYWOOD NA\L\~G STRIP
11
TYPICAL
\-\OLD\~G
'BLOCK
F\GURE 1-3
-- - - --
�this spacingo PUT WAX paper under one nailing strip and use it to hold
down the very forward edge of the bevelled edge of the plywood at
Station 6,,, The nails should go through the bevel about 1/4" in from
the edgeo Actually, the nails make the wood strip act as a long clamp.
170
While the rear plywo od section is setting up, prepare the forward section
in the same way~ Notice that the bevel is on the INSIDE face of the plywood this t i me ~
18.
Apply the forward plywood the same way after pulling off the nailing
strip, but use two nailing strips at the splice, one with the nails about
1/4" in from the edge and the second immediately forward of the first"
Because of the glue t hat will squeeze out of the joint, wax paper under
the strips is essential to keep them from getting glued down.
19.
Remove the plywood-covered fuselage side frame from the blocks. Trim
the plywood if the edges are ra :g ged, but leave at least 2" aft of
Station 11.,
200
Make a second side frame inside the blocks nailed down for the first.
Fitting the diagonals will be a somewhat more exacting job this time
as the blocks are already there and will not be put in position after
the diagonal has been fitted. Remember that this second frame is for
the RIGHT HAND SIDE, so the plywood splice plate at Station 6 will be
against the table instead of on top of the frame.
21.,
Since the plywood goes on the "Down" side of this second frame, the frame
will have to be removed from the blocks before the plywood is appliedo
However, the butt-glue-joints will not hold it together for this rough
treatment, or even against the tension of the curved lower longeron.
Cut same scraps of l/8 11 plywood and nail them over the various joints
as gussets., Do not use glue, but drive one l/2"-20 nail for each frame
member in all the way" The whole gusset, nails and all, can easily be
pulled off later o
22.
Remove the gusseted frame from the blocks, turn it over on a flat surface and apply the plywood as in Steps 10 through 160 When putting
temporary backup wood under the plywood splice plate of Station 6,
donvt forget to add the thickness of the temporary gussets that are
raising the frame a bit above the work surfaceo
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
Before starti ng to assemble the fuselage., cut 16 quarter-round "A" gussets
from 1/8 11 plywood and 26 half-round "B" gussets per Details A and B of
Figure 1-L. "' Cut 12 J/4" corner bows per Detail C,, All are simple arcs of
circles with radii as indicated a
Next, cut five fuselage frame spreader bars from any convenient size pieces
of wood and notch as shown in Detail D of Figure 1-40 - The fuselage is now
ready for assembly o
i
i
J
~-
Page 1-8
�DETAIL ~
DE.TAIL B
(
- ~~
MAKE 2G
MAl<E IG
Ya PL'('WOOD
.....
.,..____
I
Y~PLYWOOD
_..;._
• 2 41/4
1
1''
- - - - - - - • ~I
DET~\L D
~ M~KE
S
'
.
#
1-4-
F\ -GURE.
DE.'TA\L<;
FIGURE
FU~E.L~GE.
1- 5
~SSE.MSLY
Page
1-9
�-(
lo
Lay three spreader bars on a flat surface, and fit the fuselage sides
into them UPSIDE DOWN as shown in Figure 1-50 Add the two remaining
bars to the "Top" with the rear one at Station 5.
2o
Square the sides and the front end as shown, and after a double-check
of the nose from the opposit e side to be SURE that it is square, tack on
two cross-strips of woo d af:, of Station 6 t o assure the rigidity of the
structure.,
)o
Build up wing support Stations 3 and 5 according to Steps A through D of
Figure 1-60 The curves for the plywood faces of Step D can be marked to
size by notching the straight sections to fit and then pencilling around
the corner bowso Be sure to varnish the areas inside the structure
before putting on the second piece of plywoodo
4.
Landing gear support Stations 2 and 4 are built up the same way except
that corner bows are not usedo Do not build in Station 2 until after
the firewall is mounted◊
5
The shapes and locations of the various 3/4" plywood filler blocks that
anchor the Station 2 through 5 cross members to the lower double-longeron
structure are determined from the details of Figure 1-7 as keyed to
Figure 1-lo The dimensions are not critical, but should not be less
than showno Note that the blocks at wing support Stations 3 and 5 are
notched out 3/16" to allow the wing fittings to slip through o The holes
in the rear blocks at Station 3 for the aileron push rod are a bit undersize at this stage deliberately.
o
60
Glue the blocks to the outer plywood skin after pressing them tightly
against the plywood of the cross-menbers per Step E of Figure 1-6.
7o
Cut and fit 1/8" plywood to form an inner covering for the double lower
longeron structure per Step F of Figure l-60 Don't forget to varnish
the insides before putting on the plywood, and then drill a vent hole
at the bottom of each closed areao It is best to drill the hole in the
plywood before you put it ono
NOTE
The work of Steps 3 through 7, above, results in Box Structure, which should be inspected and approved by an FAA
inspector before being closed up. He may not insist on it
for this particular piece of structure, but it is YOUR
responsibility to notify himo Show him the drawings way
ahead of time J and you might not be held up at this point
by having to wait for his approvalo
80
Mark the location of the wing spar pin holes on Stations 3 and 5 per the
cross-section views of Figure 1-90 They can be drilled at this time,
but it is a gocd idea to wait and see if the wings line up properlyo
9
With Stations 3 through 5 in and anchored, the structure is now sufficiently rigid to allow removal of the spreader bars so that it can be
turned over for working at more c onvenient angleso
0
Page 1-10
�NOTE
TE.MPORARY
GUSSET~
(
TEMPOR~RY
~OL DI ~G BLOC.K
,,
7/, 6
r ..o.·
BUSI-H~ G
FIGURE
STATJO~ 3
NOT
J5
TO
1- 6
~SSEtABLY
SC.ALE.
Page l<.1
�DETAIL
(
"C'"
. STATIONS ··2-'4- ~ 5
NOT~:THE ARE~ BETW~E~
~T~TIONS 4 § 5 \S
FILL.ED
IN SOLlD \F T'HE
~IRPLANE. IS EVE..R TO
BE P... B\ PLANE:.
~I)" cutouf Ar
STATlOJ\J 5 FOR
WING S?~4R l=\1T\NG5
I
I.I
DET,A.JL.· '~ D
11
ST~TION
"\.
NOTE: Station 5 slopes like
Station 3. Called out in
Detail "C" to show that the
filler blocks are solid.
~--
~
2"--1 . I ~
-------11 ~
~
~ - -· 4
. \ 11
\.
11
--1
4'!
D, TUBE
F,\GURE. L-7
DOUBLE LONGE.RON FILLER
~LOCKS - SEE. FIGURE 1-1
FOl<
LOC~1\0NS
Page 1-12
�(
10.
Starting at Station 6 and working toward the tail, cut, fit, and install
the 3/h" square cross pieces and diagonals per Figure 1-8 9 using the halfround "B" gussets of Figure 1-4 nailed and glued to the OUTER faces of
the longeron ONLYo The gussets at Station 6 are only temporary, and are
nailed in place but not gluedo Tio not install cross pieces aft of Station 8 at this timeo
llo
Starting again at Station 6 and working aftJ install the diagonals per
the cross-section views of Figure 1-9 with two Type "A" gussets at each
end per Detail A of Figure 1-40 Note 3/16" holes drilled for drainageo
Cut · 3/4" square notches in the middle of Type "B" gussets and doublegusset remaining Figure 1-8 diagonals per Detail B of Figure 1-4. Drill
drain holes in bottom gussets of lower longerons before installing
notched top gusseto
120
Build up the rudder post per Figure 1-lOo Lay out the proper shape on a
piece of 1/8" plywood and cut to exact outlineo Glue a 3/8" square strip
of spruce down each sideo Since it can't make the sharp bend at the
bottom, let it project straight, and fit bottom piece of 3/8" solid wood
as showno Add 2-inch filler blocks to backup hinge bolts where shown,
and glue on top plywoodo This is again Box Structure, requiring inside
varnishing and FAA approval per Note of Step 7o
130
Using C-clamps at top and bottom, clamp 3/4 11 x 1-1/2" uprights temporarily
in place at Station 11 ( the upright on the left side is 5/8" x 1-1/2 11 ) o
Bevel the rear edges so that they fit squarely against the rudder post
when it is held in placeo The sides of the rudder post will also have
to be bevelled so that the plywood projecting past the Station 11 uprights fits the post snuglyo
140
Cut a piece of 1/8" plywood to fit the area between the Station 9-10
diagonal and the rear of the Station 11 upright, and glue it in place
on the LEFT inside of the fuselageo The purpose of this is to reinforce
the plywood so that an access hole can be cut in latero
l5o
Using C-clamps from the top and the rear, glue in the Station 11 uprightso While they are drying, clamp and glue in the two half-round
3/4" plywood blocks of Detai 1 I, Figures 1-2 and 1-Jl and glue 2"
triangles of 3/4" plywood into the Station 'J corners per Figure 1-lL
16.
After the clamps of Step 15 have been removed, glue and clamp in the
rudder post, being sure that it is perpendicular in both axeso While
it is drying, add the 3/4" square cross piece shown 21" ahead of the
rudder post on the top longeron layout of Figure 1-8 and cut and fit
the Station 9 l" x 2" hardwood tail spring bolt supporto Anchor this
with 3/4" plywood triangles notched and fitted per Figure 1-11.
l 7o
Fit 3/4" square cross pieces between top and bottom longeron pairs tight
against the rudder post per Figures 1-8 and 1-llo Because of the slope
of the lower longerons, it will be necessary to bevel the bottom cross
piece so plywood can fit across the longerons latero Clamp the cross
pieces to the rudder post while the glue drieso
Page 1-13
�.
_ TOP VIEW
,
TOP .LQ~GERON · TRUSS
'f
:-,
II
9
,,
l?o/4
'I
TOP . VJE'W
BOTTOM
LONGE.RO~
TRLl5S
L see. Fie;.. ,_,,
F\GURE
1-B
- - - - - --
l
!
......... .l
�MAJN
· FU_5ELAGE , SJAT\0N5
(F~Of;T . VIEWS) ..
'i-
•
•
FlGLIRE 1-9
ij
II
.Ya'' PLY WOOD
.
--------
GE
..
,¾SQ.
. s''
~
~.,,'
2"a.
-
'
·.
1
~~
.
2. BLOCKS AT
LOCATIONS
'' "-=
. '1'.BLOCK.
NOT
TO . 5CJ\LE
HINGE
F\ GURE 1-10
RUDDER POST
~5<SEMBLY
�(
B-B
RE~R
FlJSE.L~G,E
AS<;EMBLY
Tb.\L SPRING BOLT
SUPPORT ~NCHOR 11
?v4- PLYWOOD' ' cur
TO 1=11
NOT
TO
.
--<
11
~
,
7 ~... ,, -------
SC~LE.
FIGUR~ 1-12
TO'P L0~~E.RO~ RE.AR
C ROSS -P f E. C.E CS
~)\JD PLYWOOD
Pa ge 1-16
�I
.
__
;
. I
I
(
j
·.'
'
.
It
'
t/4 Se'A.tTARli
.
.
.
FlG\JRE: 1-1":,
UNDER F\~ COtJ~TRUCTI0~
Page 1-17
�r
18.
Bend up a sheet of 0032 steel so that it just fits the tailpost/fuselage
intersection. It is held on each side by three 3/16" bolts through the
outer plywood and the uprights, and through the tailpost by the two
lower hinge bolts and one other as shown in Figure 1-8. Be sure to varnish
the wood under the anchor before installing it, and paint or cadmium plate
the anchor ~
19.
Install the J/4" square cross piece shown 7" ahead of the rudder post on
the top longeron view of Figure 1-8 and Figures 1-11 and 1-12$ Note that
this is cut half-way through from the bottom for control cable clearance.
Cover the area from the previously-installed cross piece 21" ahead of
the rudder post to the rudder post with 1/8" plywood in TWO PIECES, butted
together on the centerline of the 7" crosspiece. The purpose of the cross
piece is to stiffen the plywood ahead of the cutout in the piece of small
plywood that is cut out per Figure 1-12 to allow the elevator horn to protrude through. Nail and glue 1/8 11 plywood below the lower longerons from
Station 9 to the rudder post AFTER the underfin side plywood anchor strips
have been nailed and glued in place per Figure 1-13. Drill drain holes
in the bottom plywood at the corners of Stations 9 and 11 and trim plywood flush with sides of longerons.
20.
Build up the underfin structure as shown in Figure 1-13. The 1/4" square
flanges provide side surface for the plywood side pieces to be nailed and
glued to. Note the cutout at the rear center of the bottom rib to allow
access to the tail spring support bolts that go through the bottom of
the tail post,
FUSELAGE SECONDARY STRUCTURE
The secondary fuselage structure consists of those parts added after the
main framework has been assembled per instructions in the earlier portions
of this chapter. Since most of these are not primary load-carrying parts,
the builder has great leeway in the use of sizes and materials other than
those specified. The "Turtledeck" around and aft of the cockpit (see
Section 6) was designed to be removable and interchangeable with an enclosedtype canopy structure, but either type of structure can be built on permanently if desired~ An item like the forward slope of the instrument panel is
entirely arbitrary. Tall pilots would probably prefer a greater slope while
short pilots would want it more nearly vertical.
1.
Cut firewall Former No. 1 from 3/8 11 plywood per Figure 1-14 and the three
top fuselage formers at Stations 6, 7, and 8 from 1/4" plywood. A strip
of wood wjth a nail as a pivot and a hole for a pancil makes a good
compass to swine; long arcs of circles (Figure 1-1.5)~
NOTE
I
The lower portion of the No.~Former on Figure 1-14 is
out of scaleJ so use the dimensions as written.
Page 1-18
�(
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V4: XI
II
NoTcH
,, ,,
,Y4,~ Yz
FIREWALL
"lb
STAT 10 N
3/c9" ?L.)'WOOC
" ,,
ST~TlO~
Y4''
7
PL'tWOOD
¼. ''x I''
Z''
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FIGURE
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sn
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1-14
ST~TION L~'{OUT5 B)' HAL\IES
SC.~LE.
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STATIONS
11
1/4 PLYWOOD
SEE DE.1A\L
FIG ... I-IS
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Page 1-19
"
-_D,,
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2.
Build up a 3/L." wide by 3/L. 11 deep flange on backside of top portion
of Former No* 1 per Figures 1-14 and 1-15. The only purpose of this
is to sArve as a base for the nutnlates that anchor the forward metal
t,,_ctledeck, and can he buiJ. t ur ~f scraps of 3/h n plywood ;,:· 5 re-:-::· ' to
fit or can be lamina.ted as a single bow by tracing the curve off on a
work surface, drawing a ljne set inside 3/4", driving nails along it,
and laminating strips of \ 116 11 x 3/4 11 wood in place.
3. Glue in Former No. 1. After it has set~ trim the excess side plywood
and install the landing gear support at Station 2 per · Figure 1-6. Wht'37i
installing the inner plywood between Stations land 2, carry the plywood upward along the diagonal per Figure 1-15.
4.
Cut a 1/8 11 x 1-1/2 11 x 1-1/2 11 2024 dural angle, trimmed flush with the
top and bottom longerons, to fit the firewall corners per Figure 1-15.
Do not drill or install at this time.
NOTE
If you have difficulty getting dural angle, the weight
penalty is negligible if you use 1/8" mild steel angles
easily obtainable from most metal supply stores. An
alternate is to bend up 3/32" or 1/8 11 sheet steel, but
this job will probably have to be done at a metal shop
where a 22 11 piece can be :.,cnt on a brake.
(
5.
Install Formers 6 through 8 on the BACK SIDES of the 3/4" top across
pieces at those stations, and glue fn the six 1/h" x 111 stringers.
Don't try to save weight by making the stringers any thinner. Note
from Figure 1-15 that .the forward ends are notched to take a 2 11
strip of 1/8t1 plywood.
6.
Fit the plywood strip to the stringers at Station 6 by laying an oversize strip, GRAIN PARALLEL TO STRINGERS, in place and marking the
forward edge by using the front of Former 6 as a guide. Measure back
2 inches for the rear line, trim, and install. The fabric will have
a smoother appearance if · the plywood is scalloped per the dotted lines
of Detail A, Figure 1-15, after installation~
7.
Build up box-construction seat support beams and install with triangular
glued and nailed comer blocks per Figure 1-17. Rail depth must be kept
under 2-1/2 11 if biplane wing spar support tube is ever to be installed at
a future date. Note positions of rudder cable holes, control stick
bearings, and belly stringers for future reference.
8.
Install combined floorboard beams and wing hinge tube supports between
Station 2 and 3 per Fieure 1-189 The holes for the 111 I.D,.. tube can be
drilled any time, but it is easiest to do it now, before the beams are
installed. If the tubes are installed now, be sure to leave the
matching fitting on the wing root undrilled until the wing can be
installed on the fuselage and proper alignment of the ·..,ube and the
hinge assured.
Page 1-20
�'
DETA.\L \\A''
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SCALLOP
BETWEE~
5 TR IN G_
l:R?
fORME.R
NOTC ~
TV 10
OUTER
STRl~(:\ER.S ~i
ST~TIOI-J
8
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DE T'°'\L E
t ,,
I~
3/1<o" DI~ . ~LES TO
~OMP~CSS
t-O'R LARG.E
ARC.S
tv\~1CH rHOSc. \N
4S.T~1IO~ 8 CROSS
PIE.C.E
DETA\ L '' f
11
S.TRlt---1~ ! l= l~Et5.1<
WILL DO TOO
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r- \GU R.E:
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~TATlON 6, 7, 8 DET~\ L
Page 1-21
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, ,, 1Y,''
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1
DUR.~L
~MGLE
H~RDWOOD
$'PACER
FOR STOCK. E.~GINE:.
W\,~· CLOSER tv\OUNTHJG, 'e)OLT SP/lt.CHJG
F\GURE \- \G
Page 1-22
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'/z ROUND
Ye'GUS<SET
_TyPE '\B"
BcLL'j'
$TR\~G&RS
F\G . \ -4
'STA .r;
©
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BCLT tti
c#'
@.---1--~
e,PL~Nc i!-
R-'-+-===>==-
FIGURF
\-17
SPAR CARRY-=HRU BE\:ORt:. '3UlLD· COCKn IT
Cl 01ro ·M -- ·D·E-TAILS
ING SEAT SUPPORT R.~ILS 'SEE "CN _ ____,;_,;,-_..:...,__.....:;D;;;.....;__._
__
.L-,.;;;....;..!...:,l...,_...::_:::,_;_I""'\..;.;..;;::~
Page 1-~2_3
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Ali Arn ES ~ , \ / /
TO STAT ~ON 2 \. ...v
/
WING, Hl~E
Ut---UV5RS~L
SUPPORT
~lLATION
TUe,E.
lt\lST-
••
•
TUSE.
a, FLOOR.
~U'PPOFc.T' ~TRUc:nJR.E
R\6MT 5\DE: SH°""N - LEl=T t4AND
ASSE.N\SLY
0PPOS\TI=
F\GURE 1-18
Page 1-24
�NOTE
(
The wing hinge support tubes can be metal or fibere
Fiber tubes can be glued or cemented in place with
Goodyear Pl iobond or equivalent while soft aluminum
t 11bes can be cu , about L8 11 over-length on each end
and : ,he ends can be peened over to hold them in place,.
9.
Make metal wing support assembly per Figure 1-19. For best quality work
and permanence of corrosion protection, fittings should be sandblasted
and then cadmium plated~ Painting with Zinc Chromate or Red Oxide primer
and then a coat of lacquer or enamel will do almost as well at less cost.
10.
Install wing wire support assembly at Station 3 as shown in Figure 1-20.
Drill through the fi t tings to put 5/16 11 bolt holes through the wood,
then remove the fit t ings ? It is easier to drill the holes now than
after the next steps9
NOTK
Cu t a s crap of 1/ 8" plywood l" wide to go under the
bott om aluminum pad of the fitting before installing
i t on the fuse la.ge bec2use the pennanent top plywood
has not been installed at this stage.
llo
Add the cockpit corner bows in the cockpit as shown in the top view of
Figures :-8 ~~d l-20c
12 o
Add a 3/4" x pv spruce cross piece ahead of Station 3 as shown by "A"
in Figure 1=20., notching the aft side at the ends to fit the wing wire
suppcrt assemblies~ Bevel the forward side of this 3/4" x 1" piece to
allow plywood instrument panel to slope forward so that top is 1-1/2"
to 2~ ahead of bottom~
13.
Cover the area on top of the fuselage from Station 6 to a point just
forward of the rear cockpit corner bows with l/8 11 plywood per Figure 1-2)
.:..:·-:} the t op view in Figure 1=8. The area from the piece "A" ahead of
St ation 3 aft t o the oth e:~ pl ywood can be covered with two separate
pieces~ Note slots for wing wire support assemblies in Detail B,
Figure 1-21 ~
14$
Make outline bow for instrument panel to be installed forward of 1 11 wide
cross piec e 9ij A7i a t St at ion 3.. This can bP. cut from 3/4 11 plywood per the
curve shown on Fi~Jre 1=21 or can be laminated from thin strips of wood
around a row of nails corresponding to the inside curve.
150
Assembl e 3/ 4" square c ross piece and uprights with temporary 1/8" plywood gusse t,s na j l P.d t o FORWARD side- If you have your instrument layout
de c ided on a t thi s stape (reauirements and installation details in
Sect.ior: 6) :i cut ho l es for .th~m in the two side 1/8 11 plywood panels and
nail And elue t.,he p:=mels to the bow and the two uprights without bothering wit h the temporary gussets. When us:i ng the gusset method, build the
frame reversed :> with the 5-3/L" panel at the LEFT
':"te left panel is
a
Page 1-25
�~II
- ----.___
NOTE
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2~
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FlGURE 1-20
COCKPIT ,OP ·DETAILS
�I Ye"X
,r~- -~LL;
OTME.RS
\" SQUARE
'
.
"!~'SQ~
BOW
TS'MPORAR.Y
GU~~e..T
*
"
·, II
~ ~- L'2:1/s
_ _ _ _ _,...
BE:VE.L TO
l:\LLOW
FOR
C:".LOPE-
..
FIGURE \-2\
l~STRUM~Nr
?ANE:.L
FORN'\tR
Page 1-27
�wider because it takes more instruments. When fitting and glueing on
the panels notice that the plywood edges come only to the CENTER LINES
of the uprights" The center panel is removable, and the mounting screws
are anchored by four nutplates fastened to the forward side of the bow
wi·: h wood s rcrews as shown in Detail A of FiBJre 1-21.
~ 6~
With the side p · ywcod panels glued in place 3 install the panel assembly
in the fuse l age by glueing the portion of the side panels below the 3/4"
square cross pie(ce to the forward side of the 1 11 x J/4" bevelled cross
piece guA09 :.ns t alled in Step 12 and Figure 1-19
The ends of the bow
shoul d be bevelled to accommodate the forward slope of the panelo
e
17 o Make quarter=round gussets of 3/4 11 plywood for the intersections of the
bottoms of Stations 2 and 4 with the fuselage sides. With half-round
:J:-_':._J. pl ywood gussets (Type "B 11 ~ Figure 1-4) already in place, the curves
on the J/ 411 gussets can be made by tracing around square blocks held in
place in the cornerso Gl ue the 3/4 11 gussets in place by clamping against
t he l/8Yt Type "B" gussets (-see Figure 1-17 )o These 3/4 11 gussets serve
as supports for the inside landing gear anchor fittings.
FUSELAGE BELLY STRINGERS
The two full-length-belly stringers are fuselage structure, but for convenience
of doing other workJ should not be added until the inside is varnished, all
equipmen , is installed, and the fuselage is ready to covero Because the
stringers a.re deep and narrow and take a significant curve at the forward end.,
each s t ringer is laminated in place from five thicknesses of 3/8" square wood.
This ~an be spruce, redwood J fir, or pineo
lo
Glue two 3/ h11 square anchor blocks to the back side of the firewall as
shown j n Detail "B" of Figure 1-22 ..
2()
S•2rt building up s ,. ringers with J/8" square strips., The bottom two
will be .full~leng h from the firewall to Station 9o The second one will
be tapered after others have been added per Detail "D", Figure 1-22.
See FiglJ.re 1.:.017 for spacing in the cockpit area and Detail "C" of
Figure 1~22 for mP.thod of attachment .. First strip can be laid down by
nailing a.nd glueing directly to the fuselage cross pieceso
3o
When stringers are built up to full depth, use a plane or drawknife to
ha
taper them f~om Station 5 t.o Station 9, ending up with one full thickness
per Detail "D" ;; Figure 1=22.
Use s crap wood t o fill in triangles between the stringers and the longe~ons at St-.ation 9 per Detai 1 "D" of Figure 1-22 and do the same at
St.,ation 2 using wood at lecist 1/ 2° thick between the stringers and from
the stringers to the longerons. These will become the forward anchprs
fer the belly fabri c during coveringo
Page 1=28
�DETAIL'' B"
DET#\il ''A"
(
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/4.
3
3/a"
SQUARE
SQU.bi~E l3.ELL'f
5
"4\G.H
STRl~GER.
ATTACHMENT A,
FIREWALL
DE T ~ I L '' C.''
T'f PlC~L
BELL'< 5T~INGER
IN~TALL~TtON
DET-~IL " ·0
1
'
·
DET~ll ''E."
\
UP
FiGURE \-22.
Page 1. . . 29
-' . . ...
�(
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, ,·
I
I
' " "'
r\GURE. \-23
MAJOR A~TACHMENT DE'TAILS
Some c cnfusion as to ttWhat Fits Where" has resulted from the serialized presentation of FLY BABY pl ans in SPORT AVIATION magazine (starting in Januaryj
196.3) and t he delivery of plans by chapters to early purchasers., Without a
single overall assembly or drawing, or all of the major section drawings together a t one time for c omparison s a misunderstanding of the functions of
various parts is tnevitable. To offset this, the supplementary drawing
presented above has been prepared to show how and at what points the wing,
l anding gear ~ and other components attach to the fuselage.
The wing spars att ach to the bottoms of Stations 3 and 5 by means of 1/2"
pins passj ng through t ,he end fittings and the wood,. The landing gear vee vs
att ach by means of AN=4=44 bo l ts at St8tions 2 and 4. The seat rails of
Figure 1•=17 ar e mounted between Stations 4 and 5; and the combined floor and
wing hinge tube suppor .:,s of Figure 1=18 are between Stations 2 and 3. The
control stick t-orque tube bearlng blocks Are mount.ed on the aft side of Station
.3 and the front side of Station 4 as shown in Figure 1-170 The upper wing
wire anchors and t he ins t rumen t panel are mounted at the top of Station; :::er
Fi ~J. :·•. ~.. 1-20 and 1=2]. The throttl e is mounted through the lower inside
boJ:::. he-le o.f the lef t =hand wing wire anchors.
Page 1-30
�(
SECT ION 2 - T~ LANDING GEAR
Other than occasional remarks that the airplane is "Old Fashioned" and sometimes "Crude", the rigid wooden landing gear is the one feature of FLY BABY
that causes the most comment. The use of wood doesn't stir up nearly the
discussion that the two other features of straight-across axle and the absence
of shock absorbers do. True: the axle is a really old-fashioned feature, but
it also has the advantage of simplicity. Those who worry about clearing
obstacles on the ground seem to forget that anything high enough to snag the
axle would also be a mighty unhealthy thing to hit with a wheel at takeoff or
landing speed. Grass high and dense enough to be a problem for the axle will
also be~ problem for the whole airplane. No · one should be flying out of such
stuff. As for the absence of shock absorbers, they simply aren't needed
for this airplane, thereby adding further to the simplicity and overall ease
of construction of the landing gearo For a precedent, take the Piper PA-15
0
Vagabond" of 1948, a TWO SEATER TRAINER .with a gross weight about JOO pounds
greater than that of FLY BABY. While it is possible to work up a landing gear
that uses shock absorbers, this instroduces other complications, since the
rigidity of at least the major framework of the landing gear is essential to
the wing bracing system.
The large 8.oo x 4 tires provide plenty of shock absorption for hard landings
and rough fields. Even smaller sizes such as 6.00 x 6 or 5.00 x 4 will be
satisfactory for the job, although 5.00 x 4's are pretty marginal. The wheel
and brake assemblies used on the original FLY BABY are from a Piper "Cub".
These wheels fit a straight 1-1/4 n axle, so the origina 1 plane used a "" 61"
steel tube for the one-piece axle. Builders may already have different wheels
on hand. Since scrne use tapered axles~ it is easy to weld or bolt these axles
into the ends of the straight-across tube. For those who simply must have ·a
divided axle, alternate installations are shown at the end of this chapter.
Another feature that looks "Old" is that of having the wing brace wires attach
to the ends of the axle. This was fairly common on some racers of the past,
when wire-braced wings were more widely used and a simple and clean landing
gear structure was desired. Take a look at pictures of the Curtiss Anny and
Navy racers of 1923-26, the Heath "Baby Bullet" of the late 192 0' s, and the
Howard "Pete" of 1930 and on. Flexing of the cross-axle from the upward load
on the wing wires is taken care of by stabilizing wires to the middle of the
axle. If the airplane is to be used for extensive aerobatics, the only change
recommended for the landing gear is to use tubing with a wall thickness of
1/8 11 for the axle and to run the wing wire anchor thrrugh as one piece instead
of in two pieces as shown in Figure 2-5.
Page 2-1
�(
LANDING GEAR - BILL OF MATERIALS
)
Number Material
16
1
1
8
8
4
4
2
1
2
1
2
1
24"
4
10 ft.
(
2
1
1
2
4
4
4
8
4
4
6
7
8
13
20
20
2
2
1
Dimensions
Use
Struts
spruce or fir
l/4 11 x5"x36' 61 11
Axle
steel tube
.. 093"min x)i!!""to fit wheel
steel tube
.093n x 12" to fit above
Brake support
Fuselage fitting
steel
"093" x4"x5"
steel
Inner fitting
.o64"min x 3-3/8" x 3-3/L"
Strut fitting
steel
.093 11 X 411 X 4-3/4"
Axle fitting
steel
.09J" X 4" X 4-1/2 11
Brake plate
steel
.093" to fit brake
Lower wire fitting
steel
.093" x 1'1 x 2-3/L"
Upper wire fitting
steel
.093" X 4n X 4-3/8 11
Tail spring attach
steel
~ 064" X l" X 6"
Tail spring attach
steel
.064" x 5/8" x 3-1/L"
Wing wire anchor
steel
1/4" to fit axle (Fig. 2-5)
Attachments
.093n wall minx l/4n I.D.
steel tube
Wire rigging
turnbuckles
AN-130-16S
Bracing
l/8tt diameter
1 x 19 stainless
steel wire
wheel and brake assemblies to suit builder
spring steel 26" long to suit (see text)
tail wheel unit to suit
aluminum or steel - to fit above (see Fig. 2-6) tail spring spacer
Brace wires
AN1/8" nico sleeve
Brace wires
1/8" wire thimble ANclevis pins
AN-393-7
.AN-380-2-2
cotter pins
bcilts
AN-4-44
Vee-to-fuselage
castle nuts
AN-310-4
bolts
AN-5-lJA
nuts
AN-365-524
bolts
AN-4-6
nuts
AN-365-424
bolts
AN-6-14
nuts
AN-365-624
bolts
AN-3-?A
bolts
AN-3-5.A
AN-5-26A
bolt
ADD TO PARTS LIST FOR WING
X48
;Jt-48
1/8" nico sleeves AN1/8" wire thimbles AN-
Drag wire attach
Drag wire attach
Page 2-2
�LANDING GEAR~
The two vees are built of criss-cross laminations as shown in Figure 2-1.
This construction is very similar to that used on the French Spad of World
War I. While "finished" dimensions are shown, assembly is simplified if the
width is increased about 1/2" on each side and the upper ends extended an
inch or so as shown by the dotted lines. This way, it is possible to nail
the 1/4 11 wood laminations together along the edges to assure accurate alignment. The main pressure is applied by clamping. After the glue has set, the
margins containing the nails can be trimmed off with a table or band saw. The
use of the extra width also makes it possible to have a curved fillet inside
the Vee instead of a sharp angle. The axle hole is not drilled until the
plates of Figure 2-li are added.
LANDING GEAR ATTACHMENT FITTINGS
Make eight inner support fittings per full-size Figure 2-2 from .064" or .090 11
steel. Four are "Right Hand" and four are "Left Hand". Note from Detail 1
that the "B" (short) tab goes against the landing gear cross beam in the fuselage. The four outer support fittings are made from .093 11 steel and are bent
90 degrees on the dotted line (make six if you want to install seaplane fittings at this time). Drill the outisde fittings but not the inside prior to
installation, and weld 1/4" inside diameter tubing to UNDERSIDE of outside
fittings per Detail 2 of Figure 2-2. It is recommended that these fittings be
sandblasted and then cadmium plated prior to installation. At least, they
should be cleaned and painted with Zinc Chromate. Be sure to varnish the wood
before permanently installing the fittings. Install as follows:
1.
Hold outside fittings in place on outside of fuselage, centered on landing
gear supports or cross beams at Stations 2 and 4&
2.
Drill through fuselage with 3/8" drillo
J. Clamp inner fittings in place one at a time and nark for drilling by marking through the 3/8" holes. The fittings can be drilled in place, but it's
easier to remove them and drill them on a press.
4.
With inner fittings out of the fuselage, drill through the "B" tab of the
FORWARD fitting of each pair with 3/8 11 drill at position shown. Temporarily reinstall fitting in fuselage and drill through it and cross bea.m and
into rear fitting of the pair (both fittings could be drilled outside to
the dimensions, but the drilling-in-place technique allows for any building
discrepancies).
5.
Bolt on outer and inner fittings, starting with the SIDE bolts through
the outside fittings.
NOTE
Landing gear wire support fitting goes on outside of FORWARD
outer fittings only per Figure 2-3.
Page 2-3
�2." TYP,
24-"
(
---------~..J
~ ' \0'20
I
DETAIL 1
I VEE L~~OUT
3 t
~8
i
\
2.S II
_·.
\
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'
.
ao
0
-a2''
\
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-'14
1
SPRUCE,
PINE OR l=lRt -
DETAIL· 1
VEE:
A5SE.MBL)'
_
EIGURE
2-1
. LANDING GEA-R VEE
Page
2-4
�~TA....,
d..
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�Have heads of bolts on outside and nuts on the insideo Add bolts through
the c~oss beams 9 then through the 314n quarter-round plywood corner
gussets~ To achie--:re greater clearance for wrenches, it may be desirable
to install the bolt through the gusset with the ~ut on the cutsideo
LANDI.G GEAR STRUT FITTINGS
The landing gear vees are attachsd to the fittings on the fuselage by means of
sheet metal fittings bolted tot~~ ends of the veeso While these fittings are
held on by bolts _. t.he bolts do not takP- any landing loads. The load is transmitted th~ough the close fit of th9 fitting and the wood~
L
C-:i-'.:, and drill two each strut fittings per Figure 2-3.,
OF ~ACH FITTING!
DRILL ONLY ONE SIDE
2,.,
Ronr!d off ends of vees and bend fittir:gs to match .. The easiest. way is t.0
bsnd the fittings first, then round off the wood to fit. Two different
me~~ods were used on the original FLY BABY~ One was to tack weld the
edr;e::, of the fitting on the cer,t.erline to a l" diameter steel tube, then
heat each side of the fitting separately ·and bend to fite The tack weld
was then broken loose~ The other method, calling for more heat and hands,
invo~ves holding each side of the fitting with pliers, heating the middle
u:1til it is bright red, and th en bendine; it ar ound a l" tu be held upright
in 2 vise.
3-
Weld ti~ge tube onto topmost point of fitting~ To avoid difficulty of
al~gning and spacing separate pif}ces of tubA use one piece with middle
portion notched with a hacksaw per detail of Figure 2-3, and weld only the
end /c~tionso The mjddle section can then he sawed out from the top~
h. Notch out middle portion of forward fittings per Figure 2-3 to
fit, landing
ge2r wire support fittinge
Cl2.;-np fittings in place on ends of vees and match to fuselage fittings by
lc:iser:;ir,g clamps an~ reposition the f ittings as necessary,,
Witt fittings clamped in final pcs::..t::Lon; drill from pre=d:-illed side o.:
fi':..+-i~f, through vee and opposite sirl e of fitting on driE. press,,
LANDING GEAR AXLE FITTINGS
Fisures 2-4 and 2-5 show the const:~ction of the axle and its attachment to
t,he vee.s o k:tuai di:r,rnns::_cn.s wi 1.J -v;;-ry -vr, +,h th~ sizes cf the ·wheels and axles
used~ The w~eels used o the original ?LY BABT are 8000 x h s from a Pipe~ J-3
'Cub" and use 1-1/hH diameter straight axles and shoe type brakeso Other size
straight axles can be used with th~~ same method of construction, and tapered
axles can be fitted into the ends of the tubular straight-across axle o The
cross-axle serves mainly as a tensi on member, a1d relatively ~ittle bending
is transmitted from the up-loads of T,ht=> wi:-ig wirP.s at. the end s o Flexing is
resisted by the wires in the front v iew and Detail "C 11 of Figu:re 2-5,, The wing
loads are carried by the two -wing wire anchors of Figure 2-5 J Details "B" and
"I:",, For the normal installation, these a:'~ held in place by two 5/16H bolts
l ucated pe~ Detail 11 B1'.., To accommoda t':.' +~'?. r.ring wiI'9s, the anchors should be
?age 2-6
�FWD
REAR F\TT\NG - ·
MAKE 2 - .093
FITTING.,tv\AKE. 2..093
(
I
,
\
~ -. 2
I Yz"
,,
---+-----+--~
,."f.,__----'------WE.LD
Y4' ,_n, x ,093 x 3 !-18 .,ruBE
4SAWE D
FR-OM
FWD FlTTl~C:, TO
C.Lt:A.R WIR~
CS:,.JP'PORT
)JO\C.H
·\/2,,-WA't
~OTTOM
THR.L:t
(ALL)
FIGURE 2-3
LANDING,
GEAR
'aIRLl, ElITlNG,$
Page 2-=7
�IN~E.R PL~TECS
WELDED TO A~L E
11/4'0:o."'
.09'?> +
.093
TUBE SLIPS OVE'R·,~:XLE--v
·A·t'z,, ------------
2''
~ - - + - - -··
I
2" _.......,.
I
,,
-414-
.
L .. G,.,WIRE SUPPORT
:_ MA~t: 1~csr::e."Cv,
t=tG ~ -z.-s}.osa
FIGURE_ 2-4
AXLE
·l;
F11T~NGS
�install so that their long edges are parallel to the rear legs of the vees.
The brakes are bolted to a mounting flange welded to the outer end of the
"outside" tube of Figure 2-L and 2-5, which slip snugly over the axle tube.
This outer tube is in turn welded to the OUTSIDE axle support plate. Note
from both figures that the t-m axle support plates on each vee are mounted
evenly relative to each other on opposite sides of the vee. The attaching
bolts go through holes that are even with each other, but the holes for the
axle are both elongated and out of line with each other because of the angle
between the axle and the vee.
The portion of the axle between the vees can be streamlined with wood routed
to fit, streamlined, and taped in place as was frequently done in the 1920's,
or an · old streamlined steel strut can be sawed in two lengthwise at the widest
point, fitted around the axle, and welded along the saw cut and at each end.
The wheels are held on by tubing collars of sufficient length to hold the
wheel bearings tightly in place. It may be necessary to grind down the inner
bolts holding the wire anchors to get the axle streamliner to fit. In any
case, the inner bolt will be inaccessible, but there should never be any need
to remove the wing wire anchor.
LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION
The main landing gear is assembled as a single unit in the following sequence
before being installed on the airplane.
lo
Weld inner axle support plates to axle and outer plates to brake support
tube per dimensions and angles of Figures 2-L and 2-5~
2.
Drill axle inboard of support plate for wing wire anchor per Details "B"
and "D", Figure 2-5-
3 ~ Slip each vee on the axle and position against the inner axle support
plate. Clamp in position, being sure that wing anchor is aligned with
rear strut of the vee, and drill vee to match bolt holes in plate.
NOTE
If steel~tube streamliner is to be welded around axle before
assembly, wing wire anchor must be bolted in place before
welding.
L.
Slip brake support tube over axle outside of vee, and bolt in place.
Drill through outer tube and axle for wing wire anchor bolt per Figure 2-5.
5.
Secure ends of four brace wires to brace wire support of Figure 2~.
Insert wire thimbles in holes, slip Nico press sleeve on wire, run wire
through holes and around thimbles, and back through Nico sleeve. Run
sleeve up tight against thimble and lock with Nico press. Leave each
wire about two feet long, and bolt wire support to axle with 5/16 11 bolt
through axle per Figure 2-5. This works best as a two-man job.
6.
Attach fork end of AN-130-lc:5 turnbuckle assemblies to forward fuselage
landing gear outer support fittings "B" of Figure 2-2 per Detail "A" of
Figure 2-5 with clevis pins and cotter pins.
Page 2-9
�@
OUTER
o,, -~,
~EE
----- '3 // --~,~
.,
k--'zh
. WM E.e: l.. "R.'e T ~\ ~E. R.
3/IG>'' BOLT
.
.
,_,,_....,6'_1 -e ,_,,,~
.,,.n~ll
s116''! )0LTS ~, DRILL
~'ALE P&RPENDICULAR.
TO WING WIR.E
~NC.HO~- LOCA1e c
PeR, \\ B"
FIGURE 2-5
L~~D\NG GE~R,,
DETAI\..S
Page 2-10
�?. Fit complete landing gear unit (less wheels and brakes) to fuselage, which
can either be hoisted above the floor in a levP-1 attitude or turned over
on its back on saw horses. The vee's attach to the fuselage fittings
with AN-4-44 bolts inserted through the matching tubes from the forward
ends of the fittings. Secure the bolts with AN-310-4 castle nuts. It
may be necessary to file away a bit of fuselage wood at the aft side of
each fitting to get adequate clearance for the bolt.
(
NOTE
Installing the landing gear can be done by one person, but
it is much easier when done by two, especially when using
the upside-down fuselage technique.
8.
With all turnbuckles evened up with four threads showing at all barrel
ends, insert thimbles through the eye ends of the turnbuckles and secure
the wires by Nico press per Step S.
9.
Square landing gear to fuselage by adjusting turnbuckles. All turnbuckles
should be run up as tight as possible by hand for final installation and then
given an extra full turn with a nail through the hole. Safety i:er Manual 18.
NOTE
If steel
gear has
airplane
wood, as
tube streamliner is
been assembled, the
and disassembled so
at inner plates and
to be welded on after the landing
gear should be removed from the
that no welding is done next to
ends of streamline tubing.
TAIL WHEEL SPRING
FLY BABY can use any of a great number of available steerable tail wheel assemblies, either the full-swivel type or the older limited-motion type. The spring
leaf on which this assembly is mounted will have to be made specifically for
the airplane, however~ Lengths are as shown in Figure 2-60 Actual width and
thickness is not importanto If thinner material must be used, use two pieces
together in the manner of heavier airplanes. A 1/4" x 1-1/2 11 piece was used on
the original FLY BABY because it was available and just happened to fit a tail
wheel assembly that was on hand without alteration. Detail "A" of Figure 2-6
shows how it may be necessary to fit the end to the tailwheel casting. The
spring is one item that may be easier to find in rural areas than in the "Big
City" since all sizes of leaf springs are used on various kinds of farm machinery. The lea.f should be bent to shape and all grinding and drilling done
before the heat treatment. Don't try this yourself unless you are experienced
at it. Many places that will sell you blank spring stock will have the facilities for heat-treating it too.
The front of the spring is drilled for a 5/16" bolt that goes through the Station 9 hardwood cross-piece (see Figures 1-2 and 1-12). Use a large-diameter
washer on the top of the cross-piece. The spring is retained at the tailpost by
an o064n steel fitting bolted to both faces of the rudder post and welded to an
0064" steel cross member per Details "B" and "C" of Figure 2-6. Steel or alum:inum
pads the same thickness as the spring are fitted closely to each side and held in
place along with the bottom retainer by a pair of 3/16" bolts. When making the
11 BH fitting, it is best to drill the holes on the back side of the fitting only
before bendingo Hold the fitting in place, and drill through the rudder post
from the drilled side to mark the inner side of the fitting. Remove and complete
drilling on a drill press. The cutout in the underfin rib of Figure 1-13 allows
access to the inner side of the rudder post for mounting the fitting.
Page 2-11
�,,
o/,b
Y4''
HOLE-
BOL.T
~ I Yz.'' ~PRl~G, STEEL
7
I''
®-. 11------z'1
s,
©
.a&~ tv\U~J.- STEEL
S.Te,e.\.
OR. ALUM~
lNUM ---S"ME
r~lGK.NESS A.S,
~,,
TO FIT
S?~\WG
I._
SPRl~G,
~ 15/; i
F\GURE 2-G
TAlL
WHEeL ';.PRING
OET~L~,NO, TO SCALE)
Page 2-12
�F\ GU Rt.
2-7
®
®
3/e DIA.
'I/
WA~~ER..
, WELDED
ON
SEAPLANE REAR FLOAT STRUT .FITTING
FLY BABY is well suited to the installation of twin pontoons, or floats, either
home-made or old small-size Edo or Warner models when they can be found. If
there is any P.ossibility that you might want to put floats under . your FLY BABY
in the future, the logical time to install the rear strut fitting is when the
standard landing gear fittings are being installed on the incompleted fuselage.
This will save extra work later. While various floats will differ in strut
attachment details, the rear strut-to-fuselage fitting on FLY BABY will be the
same for all.
An extra pair of landing gear outer support fittings is made per Figure 2-2, but
the longitudinal tubes are not used. Two tabs are welded on per "A" of .Figure
2-7 above ~ Notice that the outer face of the fitting is cut down to avoid
interference with the rear wing spar fittings of Station S as shown in "B".
Add the quarter-round 3/4" plywood corner gussets shown in Figure 1, and make
and install two extra sets of inner reinforcements per Figure 2--2, Detail 1.
Drill the hole in the "B" tab as low as possible to clear spar fitting. It
may be necessary to trim the top of the "B" tab down a bit.
Page 2-13
�FlGURE 2-8
@
®
DIVIDED AXLE LANDING GEAR
Since some people dislike the s'imple but old-fashioned straight-across axle,
the above method shows one way of making a divided axle type. Initial construction is similar to that of Figure 2-5 except that the axle is cut off
a short distance inboard of the inner plate. Steel er-ass-tubes are made _up
with sheet metal fittings welded on the ends to fit over the axle stub and a
modified outer forward fitting (formerly the wire support) with l" diameter
washers welded around a 3/8" diameter bolt hole. Note that the thickness of
the forward fitting must be increased to a MINIMUM of 1/8". Since the crosstubes have to physically cross each other, two possible methods are shown.
Alternative methods of attaching the cross-tubes to the axle stubs and to the
fuselage can be worked out by inspecting such airplanes as Piper "Cubs",
Taylorcrafts, and Aeroncas at the local airport.
Another major variation that can be made to the landing gear is to make the
vee's of streamlined steel tubing. There will be slight savings in both
weight and drag. The logical alternative to this is to use a complete gear
from a regular airplane, cut down to fit. Differences in the Vee-angles
can be accommodated by relocating Stations 2 and 4 when building the fuselage.
The important thing is that the axle be directly under the leading edge of
the wing ( or a point 9" ahead of the bottom of Station 3).
NOTE: To be effective, the inner stub should be almost as
long as the axle, largely nullifying the anticipated benefit
of the divided axle. The resigner is strongly against the
divided axle and includes it in these drawings only to show
that it CAN be done.
Page
2-11
�SECTION 3 - TAIL SURFACES
(
The shape of the FLY BABY tail surfaces, especially the fin/rudder combinations,
is sort of a personal trademark of the designer, and is a carryover from his
model airplane building days. Varying the shape of th€se surfaces is one of
the easiest ways for a builder to get individuality into his own airplane. As
long as the areas are kept approximately the same, ther3 will be no ill effects
from altering the tail shape~ The span of the horizontal tail is slightly less
than that which would be optimum for this design, but was kept just under eight
feet to permit legal trailering without need to remove the horizontal tail
surfaces. Anyone considering a larger motor and heavier structure, as the
Lycoming 0-290G powerplant for aerobatics, are advised to increase the horizontal tail span at least one foot. If such a major alteration as a side-by-side
two seater is to be made, the tail span should be increased to ten feet •
.After the fuselage is built according to Section 1, the first part of the tail
is already built since the fin spar is an integral part of the end of the
fuselage. Rudder, two horizontal stabilizers, and two elevators are built
separately while the fin is assembled right on the fuselage. The horizontal
surfaces are symmetrical, and only become "Right and Left" when drain grommets
and lifting pads are added to the bottom.
VERI'ICAL FIN ASSEMBLY
1.
Make fin diagonal spar from 1/8" plywood and 1/4" square cap strip and
add 1/4" wood filler block at bottom per Figure 3-1.
2.
Make fin spar anchor and bend to proper angle to anchor spar to aft side
of fuselage Former "8 11 when top is against fin vertical spar at point
5 inches from top. Bolt spar in place at bottom with 3/16" bolts through
holes previously drilled through Former 11 8" per Figure 1-15.
3.
Bevel top end of diagonal spar and fasten to vertical spar with nails,
glue, and a corner block.
4.
Mark positions of Ribs 1 and 2 on forward face of vertical spar.
s.
Using the width of the spar at these points and the spar width at the top
longeron for Rib 3, build up three ribs of the proper width from 1/8"
plywood and 1/4" cap strip per Figure 3-3. Notice notched and bevelled
forward ends to fit diagonal spar.
6.
Cut fin nose ribs from
7.
Fit nose ribs into straight sections of ribs which are already in place.
Nail and glue per Figure 3-3, and add 1/4" square cap strip to SJ.des of
diagonal spar as filler strips.
8.
Fit 3/8 11 x 5/8 11 leading edge strip in place, leaving a bit of extra length
at the top.
1/4"
plywood per Figure 3-2.
Cut top corner bow from 3/4" plywood per Figure 3-1, and fit in place.
Notch tip of fin for 1/8 11 gussets. Trim gussets and leading edge.
Page 3-1
�(
TAIL SURFACES - BILL OF MATERIALS
WOOD
Number
Material
Dimensions
1
1
6
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
1/8 11
1/8 11
2
13
3
50'
32 1
12 1
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Spruce
Spruce
Spruce
2-1/8 11 X 44 11
1/4" x 3" max. x 7-1/2 max.
1/8"
1/8"
X
X
X
3" X 41 11
311 X 37 1 *
2-5/8 11 X 46 11
X
3/4" x 611 max. x 6 11 max.
1/4" square
1/2 11 square
3/8"
X
5/8tt
Use
Fin diagonal spar
Ribs
Stabilizer & elevator
spars
Stabilizer Diagonal spar
Nose ribs
Tip bows
Cap strip & filler
Spar flanges
Leading edges
HARDWARE
1
Steel
3"
4
26
12
2
Steel
Bolts
Bolts
Bolts
Bolts
Bolts
Bolt
Nuts
Nuts
Wood washers
Turnbuckles
Clevis pins
Washers
Steel
Nicopress
sleeves
Wire thimbles
.6.L4Jl- 6 l/4'~teel
2
1
43
2
26
4
4
4
10'
8
8
*
1-1/2 sq.ft •• 064" min.
1 11 O.. Do x .09" min. tubing
1 11 I.D. x .09 11 min. tubing
AN-3-30
AN-J-12
AN-3-10
AN-3-22
AN-4-14
AN-3-26
AN-365-1032
AN-365-424 . •.,
AN-970-3 (3/4")
Metal fittings
AN-397-7
AN-960-10
1/8 11 stranded wire
Can be in short lengths for individual ribs.
Page 3-2
�~
f.-·%"'
4
- - -··
f
(
I\
1/4 IJ
FILLER
- - - - - ~ ~. 12'I
3 ?ll
=>
--
_______________~~---.,..... ,.
------------~--~.
......,.__ _ _ 2 3/4 #
....1,..
..
_ ____,
l/4
.
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I
I~
-t-------$- · ·· 1;~
i: I~
s 'P~B bti.J C.HOR,
M~Ke. 1 -
1
064: 'S"Tc.E.L
F\GURE ~-1 - F\~
T~LL .TION
Page
3-3
�- - - - - - - - - - - - ~ '7 ½
II _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ____,..__.
2
FIN NOSE
~IB~
MAKE I EACH
CUT COA~S
ro~
DBAl~~MOL~S
Y4" PLYWOOD
'
FIGURE 3-2
Fl~
t ST~B\Ll2E.R
NOSE. Q\B5
· ' : . ',r
..
.
~
•
• •
• ·-
........-;,
'
________._.
�RUDDER ASSEMBLY
1.
Cut two strips of 1/8" plywood to the shape of the rudder spar per
Figure 3-4.
2.
Nail and glue 1/2 11 square capstrips to one of the two strips. Since
bend at bottom of spar is too much for the 1/2" strips, let them run
straight off the edge and use a piece of 1;2,1 flat wood to fill in the
bottom of the spar as shown.
J. Insert two-inch-wide pieces of 1/2" wood at hinge locations shown. Varnish
inside of rudder spar and non-glue portions of face of second piece of plywood and glue together to form box spar.
4.
Lay out curve of rudder on work bench by marking off grid of two-inch
squares to match grid points provided on margins of Figure 3-4. Drive
three-inch nails along INSIDE curve of rudder bow per Figure 3-4A.
Note that wax paper is laid over curve before nails are driven. This
keeps the glue-soaked laminating strips from sticking to the surface of
the bench.
5.
Cut 10 strips of 1/8 11 x 5/8" wood at least 80 11 long. This does not have to
be aircraft grade spruce, but any clear straight-grain wood that bends
easily. This original FLY BABY used cedar, and redwood is perfectly
acceptable.
6.
Apply glue with a brush to facing surfaces of the strips per detail of
Figure 3-4A, square one end of the stack, and cl.a.mp lightly.
7. Lay the clamped and glued stack of strips on its side
AHEAD of the bottom
of the line for the rudder spar drawn on the bend and hold in place with
nails driven along each side per Figure 3-4A.
8.
Bend the innermost strip around the line of nails and hold it in place
at the top with a single nail. Bend the others to the same curve one
at a time, again holdering the upper end in place with a nail.
NOTE
If all strips have been cut to the same length, the increasing
of' the rudder bow should cause the top end of each
~. thickness
strip to end short of the preceding one, so it will not overlap the nail holding the preceding one. If strip overlaps
previous nail, trim it for staggered nailing per Detail 11 B n
of Figure 3-4A.
·
9.
After a 11 strips are loosely in place, press them tightly to_g ether starting
at the bottom and hold with small C-clamps backed up by nails driven
against the outside of the curve. Before clamping, tap the strips down
against the surface of the bench with a hammer to square the side surfaces
of the overall bow.
Page
3-5
�(
'
.
•
•
•
.
✓
II
..
·i
'
. I
Page 3-6
,I
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c; t_H?._C · 3-4 RUDY)E r<•
.. • ·•·· ·-·-••···--··------·---···- - - - - · · · - ·--····
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Fl GURE.
LAMl~ATl~C:,
3- -4-A
Bows
Wooo
Page
3-8
�10.
After glue has dried, remove bow and trim to fit face of rudder spar. Glue
lumps can be removed at this stage with disc sander or a light cut with a
table saw, but do not bevel at this time.
11.
Glue bow to rudder spar, using gussets notched into spar at top and side
blocks per Detail "E" of Figure 3-4. Mark rib positions on rudder bow,
and notch bow per Detail "D".
12.
Assemble rudder with spar flat on the work bench and bow vertical, per
Detail "C" of Figure 3-4. Ribs are similar in construction to those of
vertical fin except that they are tapered instead of straight and have
no rounded nose section.
13.
After rudder is fully assembled, bevel trailing edge bow with plane,
spokeshave, or rasp to triangular section and round off bottom side
blocks.
STABILIZER ASSEMBLY
1.
Cut 1/8" plywood strips 46 11 long for rear faces of stabilizer spars· per
Figure 3-6. These are not box spars as used on fin, rudder, and elevators,
so have only one plywood surface. Nail and glue 1/2" square cap strips
in place. Notice 1/8" offset on foboard end of spar for root rib plywood
covering. Add filler blocks as shown.
2.
Build diagonal spar similar to fin diagonal spar to dimensions of Figure
3.
Make inboard Rib
of Figure 3-2.
J-6.
4 from 1/8 11 plywood 2-3/8 11 wide and fit in nose Rib S-4
NOTK .
Correction to Figure 3-2: · The notch for the rib cap strips
on Rib S-4 should he 3/8" deep, not 1/4" as shown. This is to
allow for 1/8" plywood covering over double rib. Other ribs
are correct as shown.
4. With 1/4 11 capstrips facing INBOARD from spar, and spar laying flat on work
bench in manner of rudder spar, build triangle consisting of the diagonal
spar and the end rib with main spar as a base. Note that point of intersection of rib and diagonal spar is 17" ahead of forward face of main
spar.
5.
Build and install Ribs 1, 2, 3, and the outboard mate to Rib 4 as done on
fin. Add nose ribs, leading edge, and tip bows. Tip bow is anchored as
on fin, but detail not shown on Figure .;J-6.
6.
Cut and fit 2" filler blocks ahead of main spar and aft of diagonal spar;
and box double Rib No. 4 with 1/8 11 plywood per Detail "A" of Figure 3-6.
Cut ventilation holes with 1 11 hole cutter on electric hand drill only on
outboard side of box rib. Don't forget to varnish inside before closing
up the box.
�t-
------------------
.. ,..,o.,., ..
"'
3-5
F,6URE
,.
PIN ,~ND
~LL
S,t\~-\H\,L_\~·E,.·.~2 ~\TT\~c~s
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DIAGO~AL $PAI?
CONST~UCTIO~
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FULL 'D G.PTH ·
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3/,~' DIA., HOL.E
E;ND
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FU'SELAGE:.- - - -
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-- -- - ·-·---·- - -· -
7.
Add wire anchor block and wing fold pin block.
of the spars at their respective locations.
8.
Add 1/4" x 1/2" stringer to notches in bottoms of nose ribs 3 and 4, and
cover from stringer to leading edge with 1/8" plywood. This forms a
lifting pad for lift i ng the tail of the airplane when hand moving it on
the ground.
These are the full depth
ELEVATOR ASSEMBLY
The
the
the
are
elevators are built by a combination of the rrethods used for the rudder and
stabilizers. Since the bow is not continuous, it , is held in position by
longest rib, which is a continuation of Stabilizer Rib 3. The 1 and 2 ribs
then built in place as on the rudder. Procedure for inner end is different.
1.
Cut outer elevator horn from .064" minimum steel per Figure 3-8 and smaller
of hinge halves per Figure 3-5. Bolt these in place on inner end of completed elevator spar per details of Figure 3-7.
2.
Fit piece of 1/8" x 3" plywood over end of both horn and spar per Figure
and add 1/4" square capstrip to plywood per detail.
J.
Build a diagonal rib in place from 1/8 11 plywood and 1/4 11 capstrip to fit
between inner end plywood and end of stabilizer bow.
4.
Add 1/8" plywood to top and bottom of diagonal rib. The purpose of this
plywood is to stiffen the r i b against the tension of doped fabric. There
is no need to add capstr i ps or close the open inner side of the "box"
that the plywood f orms.
3-7,
TAIL SURFACE INSTALLATION
Installation of the horizontal tail surf aces is illustrated in Figure 3-9 and
3-10. The upper brace wire anchor, installed above Fin Rib No. 1, is made per
Figure 3-5, as are the s i x horizontal and three vertical hinge pairs and the
six brace wire supports. The elevator horn, consisting of a single inner unit
and two outer units, is made per Figure 3-8.
NOTE
The tube welded to the inner elevator horn of Figure 3-8 is called out
as 1/2 11 I.D. This should be 1 11 I.D., or a snug fit to the center horn
tube.
If you have difficulty in cutting a hole in the middle of a piece of steel as
shown, the single horn can be made in two halves welded together on assembly.
If .090 11 wall thickness tubing is used on horns, it will not be necessary to
bush the bolt holes if bolts are a light drive fit. For extensive aerobatics,
weld a 1/4" I.D. bushing through the center tube and reinforce outer tube with
welded-on washers around the hole. These connections must be tight, and no
play between right and left elevators can be permitted~ Figure 3-9 shows locations and settings of stabilizer attachment fittings built from Figure 3-5.
Stabilizer location is keyed to location of elevator horn hole cut in fuselage
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ,______ __j
Page 3-12
�FlGURE ~-1
ELt.\/ATOR.S
7,,
.-
�......
r
!
FlGURE. -3~8
.
.
E.LEVATO.R.
CO~TR.OL
~
I" O.D. TUBE
X,09 Wt.\Ll
MIN . .
,,
3~------t~
. F \TT.\~GS
·IN~ER. £:LEVATOR. CO~TROL · ~OR~ ·MAK~ 2.
:. ,
'. -~-
2. 1/z
I/
_ ____..~
~ \j
I/
I 'z . .
'' J_ ,,
-- ¾: 4
I •.
-------.....a-.
I
We.LD OR BR~';!E
~N 4-7 BOL,~ AS
Tl '
. +
~I\''
SHOWbt;
14-,~~--~
. OUTER ELEVATOR
OORN --MAKE.
~LE VATOR CO~TROL
c. - . OG4- $TEEL Ml~,
C~BLE: ~ORtJ - M~KE.
1.,-090 STl:.EL
�~-------?·-----------·····-·-··-- -..----..-·--- - - - - - - -
(
- - - - -.- - - - •· --•·.. ·••·· · -1
per Figure 3-9~ For trial installation, elevators need not be fitted to stabilizers, but rear face of stabilizer spar must be exactly one inch ahead of
center of elevator horn hole. It may be necessary later to cut into rear face
of stabilizer spar slightly to clear forward edge of inner elevator horn as
shown.,
NOTE
The half-round, piece of J/u 11 plywood shown 21" ahead of the vertical
fin spar in Figure l'."'"2, in · Detail 11 1 11 of Figure 1-3, and in Figures
1-11 and 1-~2 is too far forward. The distance should be 19", not
· 21". If your fuselage has already been built, cut another piece of
3/4" plywood to fit snugly behind the existing one to add two inches
of beari~g are~ farther aft. Make the two pieces a single unit by
cutting a 1/8 11 plywood gusset to fit over both of them and over the
longeron. If fuselage ~asnot been built at this stage, install
the half-round piece two incpes farther aft ·and move the top crosspiece shown in Figures 1-8, 1-11, and 1-12 aft the same distance.
This correction is shown in Figure .3-9.
Fitting stabilize.rs the first time goes best as a two-man job. Since fuselage
comes between the two surfaces, it is impossible to sight from one to the other
for alignment, so vertical sticks are clamped to the rear faces of the spars and
marked at a convenient distance above the spar centerlineso Stabilizers can
be lightly clamped at the fittings while a helper holds them level. To square
them with the longitudinal axis of the fuselage, run a wire from stabilizer tip
to a centerline point on the front bulkhead. Distances to each tip from this
point shoul9 be equal. If they are not, shave· the l/4 11 capstrip in proper
direction until they are. With stabilizers squared and held level by the
helper, drill through the fittings for 3/16 11 mounting bolt holes in the filler
blocks under · the plywood. .B race wires can be cut and fitted in place at this
time. Turnbuckles for top wires are at the fin fitting and for the bottom
fittings-are on the end of the wires niR to the fuselage. Bottom wire fittings
are held to the underfin by a 3/16" bolt through the fin spar just above the
tailskid anchor. As a safety factor, this bolt goes through BErWEEN the two
bolts holding the upper U-shaped portion of the anchor shown in Figure 2-6.
On the completed airplane, each stabilizer-elevator pair is installed or
removed as a single unit. Each is covered with fabric separately as described
in Section 7, joined by the hinges, and then sealed together with a fabric
gap seal before painting. The rudder is sealed to the fin in the same way.
After the center elevator control horn is inserted by going through the access
panel of Detail "E", Figure 1-22, the two inner horn assemblies are bolted
in place on the ends that project through the horn holes of Figure 3-9.
The stabilizer-elevator unit is fitted into the stabilizer fittings from the
side, and the brazed or welded bolts of the outer elevator horns fit into
the matching holes on the inner horns. AN-3-3O bolts go through the stabilizer
fittings and the stabilizer and are held by AN-365-1O32 nuts. Similar nuts
tighten the elevator horn against the inner horn •
•
Page 3-15
�I
u
t· --- - - - - -~
, _ _ _ _ _ _ t 4./2.
V
I··
OL,.D
~Q~ATIO~
.T?-EF.. _
:Z,.\ 11
•~-s~'
o
__
~r.:.---
•
I
.
. /
/
F\GURE 3-9
STABI L l ~ER.
\ N STALL At. Tl ON : ..
Page
3-16
/
•·•, I ....
�~z~ ---
I
!.
.· I
.....,
~OT E : IF FU':>ELA
NOT SUll.T
SHOW~ lN
C
--
..
i ·
I
I
I
.:... ..L .-f
l-'~t-•-l"GE "'BLOCK .
l=IG. \-3 nI'' 8:
- . LOCATE.D 1"1 J: IG !-t. i=ROIV\
\\ ZI 11 TO STA., \7 3 TO "191/4 1
•,; , T,O -STA., 17 3 "CS:. S\.40Wf'J A'BCVE.
•• •, t ...
- ~
/
/
..
F\GURE 3-9
STABILl:C.ER
it
\NSTA.LL~TION : ··
'
�FIGURE 3-lO
5TAB\Lli!~l<.
�SECTION
4 -
THE WING
The design of the low monoplane wing of FLY BABY lA, shown in Figure 4-1 3 is
as conventional and simple as possibleo Because of its size and shape~ some
people who saw the prototype FLY BABY for the first time though that it was
using a cut-down Piper ncub 0 wingo
As presented here, the wing uses 1/8" marine plywood for most ribs and other
plywood areas and aircraft grade spruce for the sparso A little money can
be saved by shopping around for good quality boat or ladder ~ruce 3 but the
peace of mind that goes with certified aircraft quality spars is well worth
the extra costo The material for the slotted cap strips is not so critical.
There is lots of room for refinement in the details of this wing, but the
value is hardly worth the eff orto Some weight can be saved by using 1/1619
aircraft plywood for the ribs since it is strong enough, but this runs the
cost way up o The 1/Bn marine was chosen because it is the thinnest dimension available in that gradeo In the absence of true mar:-ine~ a top grade
of exterior plywood is acceptable. More weight can be saved by cutting
circular lightening holes in all the ribs, but the two or three pounds saved
are hardly worth the several hours of extra worko
(
The double ribs bridged with plywood are a lot more rugged than they need
to be, but these features have paid off over two years with absolutely zero
pulling in of the ends of fabric tension, a notorious characteristic of all
fabric-covered wingsj wood or metalo The walkways on the wings are really
husky, and while the wing tip bows may appear to be unnecessarily heavy
timbers, they are really quite lighto Their bulk gives great resistance to
fabric tension and damage from banging against the corner post of the hangar
door and allows a nicely rounded and aerodynamically clean tipo Weight could
be saved by using a tubular metal tip bow, but the aerodynamics of the tip
would not be as goodo
No noticeable improvement in handling characteristics can be expected to
result from a change to Frieze-type ailerons with offset hinges from the
plain edge-hinged type used hereo
The push-rod type of control was selected because each wing system is separate and therefore easy to disconnect
for wing~folding without having to undo the turnbuckles of a cable systemo
A box spar in the aileron and plywood edging of the cutout area on the wing
protect these areas from distortion under fabric tension besides adding to
the general rigidity of the overall structureo
Recommended wing modifications for a 125 horsepower aerobatic FLY BABY
include spar thickness increased to one inch, compression rib tube size
increased to 3/4 11 , compression rib ends enlarged and modified to accommodate two sets of internal brace wires between fuselage and Rib C=2, and
heavier aileron hinges" Wing brace wires should be increased to 5/32"
diameter and the hardwood wing brace wire mounting pads of Figure 4-2
should be at least 7/8 81 wide and use 1/4 it bolts o
Page
4-1
,,
�WING - BILL OF MATERIALS
WOOD
Number
Material
Dimensions
Use
2
2
2
Spruce
Spruce
Spruce
Spruce or cedar
Plywood
Plywood
Spruce
Spruce
Spruce
Spruce
Spruce
Plywood
3/4" X 6" X lJV
3/4" X 4½11 X 13 11
3/8" X 5/8" X 11'
1/4" X 3/8tt
1/8" X 41 X 8•
1/4" X 4, X 4v
Front spars
Rear spars
Leading edge strip
Front spar filler
Wing ribs & misco
Nose ribs
Slotted cap strip
Spl. cap strips mtercosta1s
Ai1e ran mounting spar
Aileron spar flange (top)
Aileron spar flange (bottan)
Aileron mounting spar top
and bottom
Aileron mounting spar face
Aileron spar webs
Root rib walkways
Rib corner blocks
Wing tip bows
Wire support pads
100 ft.
2 sheets
1 sheet
160 ft.
60 fto
4
2
2
4
2
4
20 fto
75 ft.
24
1
Plywood
Plywood
Plywood
Spruce triangle
Spruce or cedar
Maple, oak, or
birch
1/4"
1/2"
X
1/4 11 X 1/4"
3/8" X 3/8" X 7 1
5/8" X 3/4" X 7 1
3/8tt X 3/4" X 7 1
1/8" X 2 11 X 7 1
1/8" X 3.1.n X 7 1
1
1/8 11 X
X 7
1/8" x 9" min.
1/2 11 X 1/2"
1/8 11 X 2½" X 10 r plus
5/8" X 411 X 24 11
J¼"
STEEL
8
72"
6"
8
8
8
4130
4130
4130
4130
4130
4130
tubes
tube
tube
sheet
sheet
sheet
2
2
4
4
4130
4130
4130
4130
4130
sheet
sheet
sheet
sheet
sheet
4
2
44,
4130 sheet
41.J) sheet
lxl9 stainless
steel
4
5/8 11 x .032 min. x 27n
3/16" IoD. Xo032"m:in.
3/16" I.D. x .,032 11 nrino
2 11 X 2" X \)064" .mino
3" X )1 11 X "093 mino
l-3/4"x3"x.093 mino
Compression ribs
Optional bushing (Figo4-2)
Swing link, ailo crank
Compression rib ends
Spar fittings
Compo Rib U ends~ wing
hinge
3" x 8" x 0093 min. Wing hinge supports
2-l/2"x3¼" Xo093 mino Wing hinge supports
Aileron horn
2-3/8 11 x3"xo064 min.
Aileron crank support
3"x4'18"x.064 mino
11
Aileron crank
2-13 /16" X 3-13/16
X o064tt mino
Swing link
l" x 5" x 0064 min.
3/4" X 5½"xo064 Ilill1o Swing link support
Wing drag wires
1/8" stranded wire
Page 4-2
�MISCELLANEOUS HARDWARE
Number
Material
Dimensions
Use
28
8
Bolts
Bolts
AN-3-12A
AN-3-23A
2
8
4
16
46
16
48
12
8
2
12
6
12
Bolts
Bolts
Bolts
Bolts
Nuts
Nuts
3/4 11 Wood Washers
Washers (thin)
Washers (stdo)
Clevis pins
Clevis pins
Cotter pins
1600-lbo turnbuckles
.020 metal channel
Wood screws
Nut plates
Hinges
A.fi.1-3-23
AN-3-13A
AN-3-l0A
AN-4-14A
AN-365-1032
AN-365-424
AN-970-3
AN-960-106
AN-960-10
AN-393-20
AN-393-7
AN-380-2-2
-16
AN-
Compression ribs
Ailerson system fittings
on front spar
Swing link pivot
Aileron horn
Pitot mast
Wing spar fittings
4
48
24
8
48
2
104
Screws
Aluminum tubes
Square feet
Nails
See Figure 4-1
AN-545-4-4
AN-366-F-832
AN-257-2-300
or equivalent
AN-526-20
1/4" LDo x 8 8
0016 alumo flashing
1/2" #20, 5/8 11 #20
Drag wire system
Aileron system
Bell crank
Drag wires
Safetying
Drag wires
Trailing edge
Aileron nutplates
Aileron hinges
Ailerons
Aileron hinges
Pitot -system
Leading edge
Page 4-3
�OUT-\
f\\05E R\~ •1\ '$ET
~O~Q.t> \'' i=-ROM ROOT
.
.,
TURNBUCKLES
.
.. OlG
ALUMINUM
-
(-,
o.''
~
.
36''
~o"" ,~lNGE.
- --+------~·.. I~'' DUR~L . OR
LOCATION$
S\-tEET STet~
=
c:::::::
1
~ - DOUBLE
o
2
l=-EE T
3
s
½e
WING
7
2
~1
~-+j
r-
~IBS
8RlDGED WITH ?L'/WOOD
~
GAP
F\GURE
5C~LE.. - \ ~
Ya PLY
4-~\
PL~~
�WING FITTINGS
It is recommended that all wing fittings be made before starting to assemble
the wing so that work will not be held up latero Since the wooden wing brace
wire mounting pads of Figure 4-2 are the first items put on the spars, they
must be made early~ Drilling long holes through hard wood accurately is
fairly tricky, so it may be wise to have this job done at a cabinet shopa
Absolute alignment of the holes is not critical as long as the edge margin
of the wood is not reducedo If the holes are not perfect, the matching metal
wire terminals can be drilled to fito When the pads are in place on the wing 9
put a piece of cardboard or plywood over the ends and back drill through the
holes to make a pattern to locate the holes for each metal fittingo The
steel tube bushings through the pads are not necessary, but are desirable
mainly if you anticipate removing the bolts frequently and to keep moisture
from the woodo If the bushing is used, drill for a light drive fit on the
tubing used o Outside diameter of the tube is not important, but 3/16 11 bo 1 ts
should slide in freelyo For those who prefer other methods, a suggested
alternate is shown in Figure 4-2Ao Correct for different dimensions when
making compression Rib C-2o Full dimensions for standard metal fittings are
presented in Figure 4-3 through 4-50
SPAR CONSTRUCTION
Cut aircraft grade spruce to the dimensions shown on Figure 4-60 Bevel as a
straight section for the full lengtho Draw in the tip taper on the WIDE face
of rear spar and NARROW face of front spar using a piece of cap strip as a
spline to connect up the points and guide the pencilo This curve can be cut
on a bandsaw if you have a helpero Otherwise, it ca1 be cut with a drawknife and planeo Cut the taper as a flat section first and then make the
bevel with a planeo Before starting wing assemblyJ locate and drill all bolt
holes for fittings and mark rib locationso Use a drill press if possible to
assure accurate alignmento Best alignment will result from drilling front
and rear spars together in pairso Tio NOT drill cnmpression rib bolt holes in
rear spar if alternate assembly method on Page 4-16 is usedo
RIB CONSTRUCTION
Using the full-size patterns provided, make wood, cardboard, or metal templates
for the ribso Trace around these with a pencil to draw the ribs on the plywoodo Note that the face grain is VERTICAL on the 1/8" middle and rear webs
and HORIZONTAL on the 1/4" nose rib webso All ribs can be made from two 4'1x8 1
sheets of 1/8" ply and one 4, x 4' sheet of 1/4 11 ply if each rib is drawn
individually and dovetailed with the otherso However, this makes a tedious
bandsawing jobo The time saved but cutting the 1/8 11 plywood into 7" x 27"
rectangles for the main portions and nailing it into stacks for gang sawing
may well justify the cost of an additional 4 9 x 8 9 sheet (approximately $9000).
Do not bother to cut nose or trailing edge portions of Ribs 1 and 2 at this
time, but cut four extra trailing edge sectionsof the full-size main ribs and
four extra trailing edge sections of the shortened main ribs (3 through 6)~
Assemble Ribs 3 through 9 by the following steps, and Figures 4-7 through 4-13,
but add slotted cap strips only to the center portions of Ribs 1 and 2o Note
from Figures 4-25 and 4-28 that the cap strips on Ribs 10 and 11 are 1/4"
square spruce nailed to the OUTBOARD edge of Noo 10 and the INBOARD edge of
Noo llo
Page 4-5
�.~
\
I
~
�(
CD
II
'I
~- PLYWOOD
/i<;
OR 3
PLYWOOD
Ya
®
Bt.VELLE:D
,,
"
.0 '::>0 10 . \Z.'S
'S-1 ~ A..F' 5
S ,\;-E-L
WlTl-4 R~lt-J FORCt:Mf:"-11
Wb-L'D~D
0
1/4 ''BOLT
.,
~
'¾b OR'. Y4
I. D. TUBES
WELDED TO .09
STE~L 'PLP..TE-
11
,,
.09 OR . 1"2 s''
STEEL ,6\NGiltS
~LT E R NAT E__W.. :. . . :\. .!. t-J.. :. . . :G=----=-=--~=--=-- W___.:_:__1R--=-=E
t-1\0U\J'T ING
P~ t) 5
Ya"
PLYWOOD
r.>+---"',--
YB•~ BOLT
1"-l
~----....... _
--
·Mog ~ cj'qd£ N -:3-9M.L39.
NI JJ ::l OJ... ~\ ~ l. N3H.l
-t\J..~JN37 77n:::l 9 3>1\#W
2 g\c1
BUS~E. D
BUS\.4 '=-D
..
"'2 -3>t~'l'J - MOS d\.1.
~ cl~dS ~'<J~ci N:3-3M.L3g
J..l.::i 01 Wl2il. '"1 g\cj
R\B5 3 T~ROUGl-t 11-MAKE 18
RIB
NO. 2 -MAKE- 2. __/
R\ B ~O. 1 - MAKE:- 2.
F\GURE-
4--2A
FULL 5\ZE: R\B Wf=BS
ALL Ya'' PLYWOOD
N
S~a
NOT~: BETWEEN- SP~RS S~CT\ONS
OF R\BS
SWOWW \~
CORRECT
REL~TlO~::,HlP "TO E~CH OT\-\~R
~~D TO ~P~RS. NOT SO FOR
TRAJL\~G F:-DG& R\ BS.,
R\B NO l
2''
l
,,
2.
RIB NO. 2
RIBS NO. 3 THROUGH 11 ___,
PAGE 4--,
�_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _1__,.1 j_
-.-.
--
-.T,
2~
(See Page
9-1)
T
1
12
•
3/8
,-.....__ __,.,.~-----,~1T
Y+ BOLTS
~-s%-----l--~t-¾
(4) - -
BOTH
SPARS
SPAR . FITTING - MAKE 8 - .093 MIN~
.f
~INGE
~
BE.ND 90° ON DOTTED L\NE ~
WELD \N .093 GU5:>ET
Page
4-8
I
__j
�r;CE -ro FAC'F: LENGTHS
(
'
'
_, J
F\G-URE
4-4
COtv\PRESSIO~ R.\BS
Page
4-9
�2
7
MA.KE 4
.OG4- tv\\N,
Y2. R."' ¼. D, HOLE
3/32
3/1"1.DIA. X,03 2 X ¾, TUBEWELDE.D I~ ~ M~KE. 2
Page 4=-10
�1
·----.-------------.
s4
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T s!z
T
518
+
15
:91 f>
A. f
4.
-+--+
7/s
FRONT
REJ).R
1--i~
f
SP~R SECTIONS OUT TO
COMPRES310~ R.\ B li ,
+
31/4
--I
MOLE. LOCA.l:ONS- BOTH $P~RS
-
rists
r,r-----~
r(3\
®
IS
_µ 7 7
IS -
@
,
S-
16
©
s
16
F.RO~T SPAR AT T\P ~.:~_ RWtr,.,~, F~e-
Li;:t,JD FliT\t.JG.S $ COMPRE':l5lOt-J RIBS
FIGURE. 4-G
CE..NTE-R. 'ON T\415 L\~E. N S~Mc. .
ON R.EAR S>P~R
S?~R ¢ TIP DE.11/l\\l~
Page
4. . 11
�I.
I
1.
Cut out rib webs per Figure
4-7.
2. Trim slotted cap strips of
x 1/2" spruce with 1/8" x 1/8" slot to
length and bevel aft end of top strip per Figure 4-8. NOTE: Plug front
of both cap strip slots from aft face of front spar forward.
3. Secure front of top cap strip to nose rib with glue and two nails per
Figure
4-9
and allow to dry thoroughly.
4. Mark position of aft face of front spar and both faces of rear spar
(plus 1/32" each side) on lower cap strip (Figure 4-10).
5.
Flow glue into slot in area between spars and aft of rear spar (Figure
6.
Press rib webs into bottom cap strip slots at pencil marks (Figure 4-11).
Fit should be tight.
4-10).
7. Turn rib over and drive in 3/8" or 1/2 11 #20 nails (Figure 4-12).
8. Fill top cap strip with glue per Step 5. Add glue to bottom notch on
nose rib. Use a block of wood the same depth as .the spar but 1/32" to
1/16" thicker as a spacer when mating rib sections. This is to permit
rib to slide along the spar easily.
from the front (Figure 4-13).
Nail top cap strip down progressively
WING ASSEMBLY
It is not necessary to make a full-size layout of the wing and build the wing
on it as on a model airplane. The wing is "Built in Space"- on two saw horses
in the following sequence by on,e of two alternate methods.
NOTE
If you are sure of the accuracy of your welded compression
rib assemblies, or of the person making them for you, and
the holes in the end pads are accurately aligned with each
other and the centers, use the method of Steps 1 through 11.
1. Drill all fitting holes in shaped spar as determined from Figure 4-1,
4-3, 4-lh,
2.
and
4-28.
Mark rib positions as determined by Figure 4-1.
Glue brace wire mounting pads of Figure 4-2 to previously-drilled spars.
Glue ONE FACE AT A TIME. When the glue is dry, back-drill through the
holes to put the compression rib bolt holes in the pad per Figure 4-14.
Glue on the opposite pad and then back-drill it too.
NOTE
Step 2 is the most accurate way. The holes can be drilled
after both pads are glued on, but centerlines may not be
as accurate because of pad thickness and holes may be
crooked unless drilled on a press.
Page 4-12
�FIG, 4-8
FIG. 4--9
~
~
Page
4-13
�3. Slip Ribs 3 through 9 loosely on the spars, being careful to get the short
ones in the right places (Figure 4-15).
final alignment of the spar butts.
A carpenters square is used for
4.
Put on the spar butt plywood reinforcing plates by halves per Step 2.
Spacing of bolt holes in this area shown in Figures 4-3 and 4-6. Final
mounting of hardware shown in Figure 4-16 for rear spar and 4-17 for
front spar. Apply two coats of varnish to areas under fittings and
compression ribs before installing them permanentlyo
S.
Before installing compression ribs, insert 1/8" stainless steel 1 x 19
:inte:rral brace wires with thimbles and nicopress sleeves per detail of
Figure 4-16 to the single tabs of Rib C-4 and outboard tabs of Ribs C-2
and C-3" Cut wires about 6" over length to mating fittings as determined from Figure 4-1. Before installing Ribs C-1 and C-3, attach the
fork ends of the turnbuckles with the drilled ends of the clevis pins
TOWARD the spar.
6.
Install the compression ribs and determine the fore-and-aft location of
holes for wires by laying a strip of wood across the properly-positioned
wood ribs from wire terminals and dropping perpendiculars. Drill holes
with 1 11 hole saw on drill motor with centers 2-1/4" above bottom of rib.
Drill two holes in Ribs 1 and 2, one near each spar, for ventilation.
Don't forget to put wood washers under the bolts on the outside faces
of the spars.
7.
Install middle section of Rib 10 with temporary corner blocks before
hooking up wires.
8. After installing all compression ribs, add the turnbuckle barrels and eye
ends, run the wires through the eyes, thimbles, and nicopress sleeves, and
press in place with turnbuckles run up to only 4 threads showing on each
end and the wires pulled to no slack.
9.
Before tightening turnbuckles, make a mark on the exact center of each
spar directly above the compression rib per "T" in Figures 4-16 and 4-17.
Spaces between marks on one spar should be exactly the same as the matching
marks on the other spar •
.10.
By tramelling (measuring diagonally across the various rectangles formed
by the "T" marks) to assure the squareness of the wing (each pair of
diagonals should be equal) tighten the turnbuckles by pairs on the same
compression ribo Check squareness of spar butts as well as compression
rib bays. End squareness is more important. Tighten as tight as you
can with your fingers then add a turn with a nail while holding the eye
with pliers. Single-wrap with safety wire per Manual 18.
11.
Fasten Ribs 3 through 10 permanently by sliding them slightly to one side,
applying glue to the top and bottom surfaces of the spars, and then sliding them back into position. Hold with one nail through the cap strip at
each strip-spar intersection. Add either 1/2" x 1/2 11 triangular corner
blocks or 3/4" x 3/4 11 preformed 90-degree plywood angles to all rib-spar
intersections with glue and nails. It is NOT necessary to apply corner
blocks to the nose rib-spar intersections (see Figure 4-24)~
Page 4-11
�F lGURE
FROl\lT
-~V
'
Fl'GURE
. WING.
4--\S
.
ASSEMBLY
Page
4-15
�FIGLJRE. 4--l,
'
FIGURE.
REAR
4-17
5PA.R
FRONT SPAR
/I .
8(: _ >:
L
SEE . FIG.
4--28
HOLES
WHEN ALIGNING WING
. DRILL
THESE
HINGE ON FUSEL~GE
Page
4-16
�NOTE
If you are not sure of the accuracy of your welded
compression rib assemblies, assemble the wing by the
following alternative procedure:
lA.
Drill holes per regular Step 1 except do not drill mounting bolt holes
in rear spar. DO drill rear spar and fitting holes and mark vertical
centerlines for rear spar compression rib bolt holes.
2A.
Glue on brace wire pads per regular Step 2, but do not drill rear spar
compression rib bolt holes.
JA.
Same as regular Step 3.
4.A.
Tack some criss-cross strips across both spars to hold them in square
ra±gnnant and glue Ribs 3 through 10 in place per regular Step 11.
5Ao Same as regular Step 4.
6A.
Same as regular Step
'
5.
7A. Put compression ribs in their proper places, but bolt
only.
to front spar
Don't forget the washers.
BA. See how the compression ribs line up with the proper location marks on
the rear spar. Try to align them properly, but do not force them. If
compression rib is a bit too short, fill in the gap with a piece of
plywood. If Rib C-2 is a bit too long, the wing wire mounting pads can
be ground down a bit. If any of the other compression ribs are too long,
make new ones or saw them diagonally across the middle and make an inner
tube splice per Manual 18. Rib C-4 length can be compensated by shimming up or grinding down the spar butt plywood under the front side
spar fitting. The major problem with Rib C-4 should be in getting perfect alignment of the 1/4" holes on the front and rear rib ends.
9A. Wherever the ribs come to rest most easily on the rear spar, drill the
spars for the bolts by going through the bolt holes in the ends with
an electric hand drill.
lOA.
Determine locations and drill 1" holes in ribs for internal brace wires
per regular Step 6.
llAo
Same as regular Step 8.
12A.
Tighten wires per regular Step 10. Do not trammel, as spars have been
given permanent position and stiffness by all the wood ribs and the
eight corner blocks per rib.
Continue construction per regular Step 12.
12.
After the main ribs are secured, add the intermediate nose ribs and
secure with corner blocks or plywood angles (see Figure 4-24 for
comparison between main and intermediate nose ribs).
Page 4-17
�130
Secure an overlength slotted cap strip to the bottom of the middle section
of Rib 2 and install it per Figure 4-18. Add top cap strip am trim flush
with front face of rear spar. Cut one of the extra main rib rear portions
to dimensions shown. Top at front should come 1/8" above top of spar.
Add 1/8" square strip to each side flush with top and glue in place. Add
corner blocks.
Tu.
Build up wing tip bow by gluing first 1/8" x 2-1/2 11 x 10' laminating
strip to points shown in Figure 4-19, holding it with small nails. Continue buildup rapidly by working with large quantities of glue and holding each additional strip with clamps as the stack grows until all the
strips are in place and the job can be left under clamps overnighto
Figures 4-20 and 4-21 show attachment at Rib 2 and Nose Rib 2Fo Note
slot in outside 5 strips to fit around 3/8 11 x 5/8" leading edge piece o
15.
Add Rib 1 and Nose Rib lF. Scab on extra pieces of wood to top and
bottom of bow .to build up bow to depth of cut-off nose ribso Continue
buildup to point 611 aft of front sparo Shape tip bow with plane, drawknife, or wood rasp to half round section forward changing to knifeedge at rear. Note thickness at Rib 2 from Figure 4-18. Bow should
be at least 3/16" above and below intersections with spars per detail
of Figure 4-6 and 1/8" above and below Ribs 1 and 2. Saw off por-tion of
bow inboard of Rib 2 and save it for aileron construction.
(
16 • Make Rib 2A by the method of Step 13 except that 1/8" square side
strips are used on both top and bottom, and fit it between the tip
bow and the rear spar 2-1/2" outboard of Rib 2o
17.
Trim both slotted cap strips on the rear portion of Rib 7 down to the
plywood web per Figure 4-22 and build Rib 7A in place per Step 160
Notch ends of two 3/8" square strips that will become flanges of
aileron mounting spar to fit under cap strips and butt against webs of
Ribs 2 and 7o Glue and nail into position at notches in Ribs 3 through
6 and at each end. See Figure 4-23 for rib notches. Add doublers to
top flanges (Figare 4-22) to take nutplates for hinge mounting per
positions of figure 4-1. Hinge locations not critical, except keep
out of curved area between Ribs 2 to J.
l8o
Cut a single piece of 1/8" plywood and glue and nail to rear face of
spar formed by the two flanges. Trim flush with upper and lower flanges
when dry.
l9o
Notch cap strips of Ribs 3 through 6 per Figures 4-22 and 4-230 Add
plywood 1/8" x 2" strips to overhang edges of other plywoodo Glue, nail,
and trim per Figures 4-22 and 4-23 and Step 18.
200
Trim bottom cap strips of Rib 2 down to plywood and add 1/8" plywood
fillers over spar top and bottom per Figure 4-22. Nail and glue 1/8"
plywood to bottoms per Figure 4-22, drilling some l" vent holes in 2A
and 7A and applying two coats of varnish to inside areas before adding
top plywood to complete box structure. Varnish non-glue areas on inside
of top plywood before installing. Note that this plywood has to be cut
out to go around aileron spar plywood previously attached to Rib 7o
Page 4-18
�FIGURE.
4-\s·
,
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PLYWOOD
Fl GURE
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, BEVEL B01TOM
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=~t>E OS:- ~ILf.:'"R-0~ CUTOUT r:03. ~ 11 ~LY WOOD
COVER. OVE'R OOUP.:,L.E R\BS (_co~Nc1oes WITH
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�- - - - - - - - - - --·- --- ---····--"-·-··· - 21.
Cut 1/4" x J/8" front spar filler strips and glue and nail in place
between tip bow and the outboard side of Rib 10 per Figure L-2L.
22.
Add aileron bell crank supports to front spar per Figure
230
Per Figure L-28, add aileron swing link supporto End nose rib is cut
out to fit around wing hinge support on f r ont side of spar and is flush
with ito Add two J/8° x 5/8 11 intercostals between Nao 10 and 11 nose
ribs on top and one L" ahead of spar on bottom per Figure 4-28 ·! }_eft
wing only for bottom). Hold in place with nails through nose ribs then
add corner blocks~ 1/8 11 plywood filler strips over spars shown in
Figure 4-28 must be added before plywood is put over Ribs 10 and 11
(Rib 11 not installed until wing fitted to fuselage)o
L-270
240 Fit wing to airplane per instructions in Section 80
Cut a rear section
for Rib 11 to fit to lower contour of fuselage at intersection with
trailing edge of wingo Add 1/L" square cap strips to inboard side as
shown for center part in Figures 4-25 and 4-280 Tack this section and
center part of Rib 11 to the fuselage and secure ends to spars by corner
blocks notched to go over wing spar fittings per Figure 4-290 Install
rear section of Rib 10, being sure it is even with Ribs 7 through 9 by
clamping a straight board across the bottom of allo
250
Build up at least five intercostals between spars and behind as support
for plywood walkway between Ribs 10 and 11 as shown in Figure 4-260
260
Glue and nail 1/8 11 plywood to BOTTOM of wing between Ribs 10 and llo
Be sure plywood doesn't spring away from rib in the trailing edge twist
areao Grain should run parallel to ribs from trailing edge to front
sparo Apply two coats of varnish to the entire inside of the box structure formed.,
270
Bevel plywood at trailing edge to take top plywood of wing walkwayo
Determine glue areas of top piece of plywood 9 which goes only to MIDPOINT of top of front spar, and apply two coats of varnish to non-glue
areaso Glue and nail in place, again with parallel grain. Add plywood
in two or three pieces with grain spanwise to top of area between Nose
Ribs 10 and llo Complete fitting of wing hinge per Section 8 before
putting on nose rib plywoodo
280
Install 1/4" aluminum tubes for pitot-static lines in left wing per
Figure L-26. Since many different pitot masts are avaiJable, many mountings will resulto Home-made wooden one on original FLY BABY was bolted
to a wood tab bolted to a nose rib as shown in Figure L-260 Aluminum
tubes connected with rubber tubingo
29.
Apply two coats of varnish to entire wing EXCEPI' in areas where fabric
will be cementedo These are outer surface of tip bows 9 top and bottom
of wing walk plywood, tops and bottoms of cap strips, and outer or top
and bottom surfaces of plywood around aileron cutoutso
30.
Install aileron swing link~ While this is designed to be removable,
there should be no reason to take it out for the life of the airplaneo
Use bolt and ·~:.:stl8 nut per Figure 4-28 with washers on each side of
swing link to prevent rubbing.
Page 4-23
�1/4
(l;
(<IV
1
~
3
/s"
,o
~ FIGURE:
Page
4-24
4-2S
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l/4 O.D .. TUBE,
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SEE. · f\G .. 4-14T0 LOC[\TE. HOLE~
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Page ·4-2.5
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SEE. SE.CTlON
o FOR PU$H
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Page
'
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•
4-26
�310
Nail 0016" roofing aluminum around leading edge from filler strips on
front sparo Have a removable section between the bottom nose rib intercostal and the spar on the left wing as shown in Figure 4-29e Fasten
with wood screwso
320
Nail bent metal trailing edge between Ribs 7 and 10.
AILERON CONSTRUCTION
The ailerons can be built any time after wing assembly Steps 17 through 19
have been accomplishedo By waiting until this time, any inaccuracies that
may have crept into the wing assembly can be matched. The aiJerons are
"Built to Fit", which is much easier than "Alter to Fit" .. Figure 4-23 shows
that the aileron box spar is vertical while the aileron mounting spar on the
wing is slantedo This provides a gap to permit downward movemento Notice
that the hinges are mounted inside this gap and that the hinge pins are even
with the top surface. Construction is by the methods detailed in Section 3
for stabilizer and elevator spars, Figure 4-31, and the following steps:
lo
Cut a single piece of plywood to fit between Ribs 2 and 7 and the same
width as the aileron mounting spar.. Clearance at each end 1/8 11 o With
this piece of plywood held vertical and in contact with the top of the
mounting spar per Figure 4-23, draw lines on top and bottom to match
depth of aileron spar and curve in spar between Ribs 2 and 3.
2o
By the methods of Section 03, and Figure 4-30, build up the aileron box
sparo Note that the TOP flange is 5/8 11 x 3/4" while the bottom one is
only 3/8" x 5/8". This is to permit bevelling the top to match the
slope of the top surface of the airfoil. Before adding back web, add
doublers for hinge bolts to upper flange. Varnish inside as done on
elevator sparo
3.
Per Figures 4-1 and 4-30, assemble Aileron Ribs 3 through 6 with standard
slotted cap strips and attach to spar with corner blocks or plywood angleso
4o
Assemble double Aileron End Ribs 2 and 7 by the methods of wing assembly
Step 13 and Figure 4-18 except that top and bottom of ribs are flush with
notches in sparo Note that the spar is..notched at each end per Figure 4-30
so that plywood over double ribs will be flush with top and bottom of the
surfacee Make and attach End Rib 2 first and add aileron section of wooden tip bow between it and Rib 4 before adding the inner portion of Rib 2.
5o Add plywood to bottom of Double Ribs 2 and 7, and varnish inside of
resulting boxo
it in placeo
6 ..
Varnish non-glue areas inside top plywood before gluing
Mount aileron hinges on aileron mounting sparo
NOTE
Drill bolt holes on each side of hinge out of line with
those opposite so that they do not hit each other when
aileron is in "Down" positiono
Page 4-27
�~/s''x~'' Be.VELLE.D
MATC.H
~\'Rt=O\L
3 " 3
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4--30
7
�7. Hold aileron in place and locate hinge bolt holes on aileron spar. Remove
hinges from aileron mounting spar and bolt permanently to
after varnishing inner face of spar where l" wood washers
not necessary to have nutplates on the aileron as well as
spar. One or the other will do to facilitate removal and
on a covered wingo
aileron spar
will go. It is
on the mounting
reinstallation
8. Apply two coats of varnish to all wood not coming into contact with fabric
and add metal trailing edge and aileron horn.
9.
Aileron horn, made in two right and two left portions per Figure h-5, is
bolted to aft side of aileron spar at filler block shown i~ Figure h-300
Bottom of bent tab is flush with bottom of sparJ and bent tabs point
away from each othero Spacing between each half of the horn is determined by snug fit of push rod terminal used~
Page h-29
�.----------- -·----·--------(
SECTION
5 - POWERPLANT INSTALLATION
It is in the powerplant area that differences between various FLY BABY projects
will begin to show up. The airplane was designed to use available standard
air-cooled four-cylinder "Flat" or "Opposed" airplane eng i nes in the 65 to 85
horsepower class, and there are quite a few to choose from. The moot common
by far are the A-65 and C-85 Continental models. While the A-65 is out of
produ~tion, it is still plentiful on the second-hand market. Some with high
time of them (500 hours or more since overhaul) can be had for $150-300,
while "Majored" engines, equivalent to brand new, can be had for up to $500.
Used C-85 1 s, because of their increased power and extra accessories, can be
expected to run about $200 higher. The A-75 engine is an A-65 converted to
75 horsepower ~ The conversion consists of changes in pistons, valve seats,
and carburetor that permit the engine to run 250 RPM faster, which is where
the extra power comes from, assisted by a smaller diameter and flatter pitch
propellero The conversion has to be approved by the factory, which issues a
new nameplate to indicate the change. The A-65 and A-75 are 170 cubic engines,
and do not have accessory mountings for starter and generator.
The C-75 engine was built as a 75 HP model, and is somewhat larger than the
A-65, with 188 cubic inches and an accessory drive section that adds about two
inches to the distance between the mounting pads and the firewall. This
engine evolved into the C-85 or 85 HP, and existing C-75's can be converted
to C-85. Again, the running speed and the propeller are different. There is
very little weight difference between the 65 and 85 HP models, which average
175 pounds, so that weight and balance chan ge resulting from the use of one
or the other is negligible.
Other available engines, although not nearly as common, are the 65 HP Lycoming,
now out of production, a 140 cubic inch engine that in spite of its published
rating does not put out the thrust of the A-65, and various models of the
Franklin engine between 65 and 90 HP. The Franklin and Lycoming are beam
mounted engines, and take a different type of engine mount than do the
Continentals, which are radially mounted. Only the Continental instalJEtions
are shown here.
Many potential builders have asked about the advisability of installing the
125 HP Lycoming 0-290G engine. This is a military-surplus ground power unit
developed from the standard Lycoming airplane engine, and can be reconverted
to aircraft standard fairly easily. It has radial mounting like the Continentals. The reasoning behind such an installation is not that more performance is desired from the extra power, but because of the low price of the
engine. These first appeared on the market in 11 As-Is 11 condition for as little
as $87.00, and completely modified and recondittoned ones can be hac from
companies that do this work for less than $300.00. See ads in EAA magazine
"SffiRI' AVIATION".
While more power at less cost may sound like a good deal, the actual cost is
high in other directions. First, the big Lycoming, with 290 cubic inches,
weighs about 75 pounds more than the A-65/C-85 and introduces a serious weight
and balance problem which is complicated by the fact that the larger engine has
to be located farther forward than the smaller units for which FLY BABY was
designed. This calls for either a shortening of the nose, with complications
Page 5-1
�(
in the fuel tank installation and pilot's leg location, or adding ballast to
the tail. In either case, the overall load factor for the airplane is reduced
if such structural members as spars and fittings remain the same sizeo The
only advantage, other than cost, is an increased rate of climb. Other desirable characteristics such as low landing speed and docile flight performance
suffer as the weight increases. With a bigger engine, the fue 1 capa.ci ty should
be increased, which means a larger tank with attendant space problems, and
still more weight. The airplane is big enough to carry the 0-290, but it is
up to the builder to decide whether the advantages of such an installation
_outweigh the disadvantages. The designer is not in favor of it. With 85 HP
and a "Climb" propeller, the initial rate of climb is 1100 feet per minute and
cruising speed is 105 MPH. A ch2nge to a "Cruise" prop will reduce the climb
slightly and increase the cruising speed to 115 MPH or over.
While it is possible to equip the C-75/85 with starter and generator, the weight
penalty must be weighed against the convenience of pushing the button to start.
The original FLY BABY was built without this equipment in the interest of lowest
cost, maximum simplicity, and consideration of the fact that hand-starting the
engine is a natural part of open-cockpit sport flying. The increasing requirements for two-way radio provide a very logical reason for having an electrical
system, but the total weight can be expected to come to around 100 pounds for
starter, generator, wet battery and box, voltage regulator, and radio. Much
of this weight can be avoided by using dry-battery radios. An increasing
number are corning on the market to meet the demand for radio in non-electrical
airplanes.
ENGINE MOUNTING
Figure 5-1 shows the genera 1 details of a typical Continental engine installation. Actual vertical location of the engine is not critical. Thrust line
should be even with or slightly below the upper longeron. Different carburetor
and air scoop installations will increase the depth of the engine, but the ,
cowling projects below the bottom of the fuselage structure so this is not a
problem. Engine should not be installed so high that the top of it raises the
cowling line above the projection of the covering over the fuel tank. Figure
5-2 gives the dimensions of a suitable 65-85 HP Continental engine mount if one
is to be built. It is much simpler to obtain a used mount and install it.
FLY BABY has used both Piper J-3/PA-ll mounts and a mount from a Taylorcraft L-2.
Bolt spacing on the firewall will be slightly different, but Figure 1-16 shows
how to accommodate this. If a standard 65 HP mount is used with the C-75 or 85
engine, with its extra length, it wi 11 be necessary to get extra room for access
to the backs of the nagmetos by installing stacks of 1-1/2" washers between the
rear engine mount pads and the firewall. Detailed tubi ng and control runs are
not shown because they will vary with the equipment used, tank size, etc.
FIREV!ALL INSTALLATION
A metal firewall is required equipment under FAA regulations~ This can be made
of alu1:iinurn, Terneplate (stainless steel), or plain galvanized iron obtained
at any sheet metal shop or furnace dealere If you take your finished Station "l"
former (Figure 1-14) to the shop, the firewall metal can be fitted to it right
there. The same seven 1/4" bolts that hold the duraluminum angle that forms
Page 5-2
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_______
�the engine mount anchor hold the firewall in place by the side flanges. The
drawings do not show the spacing of these bolts, but they are equally spaced
(eight spaces) between the top and bottom longerons and are centered on the
1-1/2 11 Station "l" upright of Figure 1-1.
FUEL TANK INSTALLATION
A great many fuel tanks are available, so only general installation details
are shown. For 65 HP engines, a 12 -gallon Piper J-3 "Cub" tank is satisfactory. This is a rounded tank as shown in Figure 5-3, and is installed in
a longitudinal direction with the filler neck forward. To get maximum fuel
"Head", the tank should be installed as high as possible and as far forward as
possible. The tank should have a shut-off valve at the outlet. Because of
the rounded bottom, the mounting beams for the Piper tank are built in place
longitudinally as shown in Detai 1 ''B 11 of Figure 5-5. Padded steel straps
adjust to the contours of the tank, and turnbuckles attached to the top
straps hold the tank down tight.
In order to maintain the EAA contest requirement of three hours cruising
range, the fuel capacity for 85 HP should be increased to at least 15 gallons.
Figure 5-6 shows the details of a 16-gallon tank designed and built specifically
for the 85-HP FLY BABY. This tank was made of aluminum and heli-arc welded,
but can also be made of regular steel. It's best to have a professional shop
do this job. Because of the flat-sided pyramid bottom, this type of tank is
most easily mounted on crosswise beams as shown in Detail "A" of Figure 5-5.
Turnbuckles and straps over the top hold it down and plywood corner guides
prevent horizontal motion. The tank installation shown in Figure 5-1 is not
to scale, so the bottom of the tank will be considerably higher. The fuel
sediment bowl and quick-drain are installed between the centerline of the
firewall bulkhead and the left side at the height shown in Figure 5-1.
ENGINE CONTROLS
All of the engine controls are grouped together at one side of the cockpit to
simplify operation. With this arrangement, there is no need to change hands on
the control stick in flight when performing powerplant adjustments. The lefthand location is standard for single-seat and tandem two-seat airplaies.
Pilots accustomed to flying from the left seat of side-by-side types will be used
to a right-hand throttle, and can make a right-handed FLY BABY cockpit if they
so desire. If this is done, note from Figure 1-21 that the 11 Powerplant" and
"Navigationn sides of the instrument panel are different sizes.
Basic engine controls consist of throttle, carburetor heat control, and magneto
switches. The throttle chosen for FLY BABY is the knob type utilizing stiff
cable running through flexible conduit. This is mounted below the instrument
panel of Station 3 as shown in Figure 5-4. A quadrant-type throttle can be used,
but it will have to be mounted on the side fuselage skin, where it will be in
the way during entrance and exit, and will be more complicated because of the
linkage requirement. The carburetor heat control is likewise a cable-conduit
installation known by the trade naires of "Bowden Cable" or ''Ahrens Cable".
These can be obtained from aircraft or auto supply stores.
Page 5-4
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SUPPORTS
5-6
�There are many types of ignition switches available, including the key-ignition
type used on Cessnas and most current production light aircraft and the older
type used in J-3 Cubs and military aircraft, a single switch with "Off11 , ttR",
"L", and "Both" positions. The original FLY BABY uses two separate singlepole single-throw toggle switches. These have been used in both locations
shown in Figure 5-4. Less hand motion is require·d during powerplant checks
when the switches are in the corner bow location.
WARNING
For those not familiar with aircraft po-werplants, magneto
switches are OFF when the circuit is CLOSED. The closed
circuit grounds the magneto and it will not fire. The
switch wiring is therefore just the opposite of nomal
direct-current circuits.
·The carburetor heat control is required by FAA, and is a cimple "Push-Pull"
that is connected to the carburetor heat box below the carburetor (see
Figure 5-1) to cut out the intake of ram air and substitute air that has been
heated in the engine exhaust shroud. Carburetor heat is applied during flight
when icing can be expected, and on all occasions when throttling back to land.
Standard installation is to pull back on the cohtrol to apply heat. Engines
using fuel injection systems do not have carburetors, and consequently do
not need heat controls.
Few of the carburetors on 65 HP engines are equipped for mixture controlo
If mixture control is used, the Ahrens cable for it is deliberately installed
between the throttle and the side of the fuselage so that it takes a little
effort to get to it. Since this is the same type of control used for carburetor heat, it is important to keep them apart. Pulling the mixture to "Lean"
instead of pulling carburetor heat "On" for landing approach is a favorite
error of low-time pilots. Leaning out the engine at low altitude will kill
it at a very critical time. The only advantage of mixture control on low
powered -planes is to compensate for the inherent increase in richness of the
mixture, ·and consequent loss of power, as the plane goes to altitudes above
about 5000 feet. If you plan to stay relatively _low, mixture control is
hardly worth bothering with except as a fuel-economy measure on long crosscountry flights.
A priming system is another extra that is not a required item. It is a convenience that makes engine starting easier. Fuel is drawn from the sediment
bowl fitting, into the primer, and forced under pressure into the intake
manifold just above the carburetor. Primer and fittings are standard aircraft equipment readily available new or used.
ENGINE INSTRUMENTS
All of the engine instruments shown in Figure 5-4 are FAA requirements. They
are grouped to one side of the main instrument pane 1 as shown for convenience.
It is easier to check powerplant operation when all related instruments are
close together and not separated by others. The tachometer is driven by a
flexible cable from the engine. It should be marked for the "Never Exceed"
speed of the engine as specified by the manufacturer. This is called the
"Red Line", and is painted or taped on the glass. Red line for the 6.5
Page
.5-7
�Continental is 2350, for the C-85 is ·2575, and for the A-75 is 2600. The
oil pressure gage is connected to the engine by a copper or aluminum tube with
standard fittings on each end, so the tubing can be made up to the exact length
required for the installation. The oil temperature gage is generally a "Capillary Tube" unit, with a temperature bulb at the engine connected to the gage
by a sealed capillary tube. The length of this cannot be altered to fit your
installation. Because of this, the units are usually obtained with over-length
tubing and the excess is coiled up and taped to a fuselage member. While oil
pressure readings will come right up as soon as the engine starts, the temperature reading may take as long as ten minutes. Both oil temperature and pressure
gages should be marked with the normal operating ranges as specified by the
manufacturer of the engine.
The fuel quantity indicator is the simple old-fashioned cork · float with a
wire sticking up through the gas cap. If making up your own, have the bent
top of the wire in full "Down" position when there are about two gallons of
gas left in the tank.
SUGGESTION
If you are not familiar with aircraft powerplant installations,
it would be well worth the effort and expense to have a licensed
powerplant mechanic check over your installation before you call
in the FAA inspector.
PROPELLER
Best performance can be obtained from the airplane when using a fixed-pitch
metal propeller. Most common makes are McCauley and Sensenich, available
used from $75.00 to $125.00. Diameter and pitch will depend on the engine
used. With the correct propeller for a particular engine, performance can be
altered by changing the pitch. More pitch results in a "Cruising" prop and
a higher speed for the airplane while the flatter pitch of a "Climb" prop
gives shorter takeoff and faster rate of climb at some sacrifice in speed.
The speed difference between the two prop types is on the order of 10-15 MPH
for 85 HP, and climb will vary by 150-200 feet per minute. Seaplanes, with
their requirement for maximum takeoff power at lower airspeed, must use
"Climb" props. Standard McCauley metal cruise prop for the A-65 FLY BABY
is 74 inch diameter and 48 inch pitch, which is reduced to 70 or 71 inch
diameter and 44 inch pitch for the A-75. The C-85 uses 71 inch diameter with
48 inch pitch for climb and 51 inch pitch for cruise.
props can of course be used, but you will have to shop around for
just the right one. An advantage of the metal props, other than much greater
efficiency, is that they can be re-pitched or shortened at a prop shop until
they are right. Since the 65 HP FLY BABY will be faster than standard 65 HP
production planes like the "Cubs" that the used engines and propellers are
apt to be obtained from the prop pitch should be three or four inches greater,
maybe more, than for the Cub, T-craft, or Aeronca. If the engine and prop
come from an 85 HP airplane like the Cessna 140 or Luscombe 8E, with cruising
speed around 110 MPH, the prop will probably be just right.
Wooden
There is nothing to be gained by using a controllable propeller on a plane like
FLY BABY. A fixed-pitch metal model with a compromise setting will give the
best all-around performance and be trouble-free. The aerodynamic advantages
of pitch change are more than offset by increased weight and reduced blade
efficiency because of thicker blades.
Page 5-8
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�SECTION 6 - MISCELLANEOUS INSTALLATIONS
This section covers the various small items or systems that are · not basic
parts of the aircraft structure ~ Some, like the control system, operate
in and connect major parts of the airframe,, There is ample room for
individual variation in the building of these items, and some suggestions
for alternates to the methods shown in this document are mentioned in
appropriate areas. Because of the variety of materials that can be used,
no detailed parts lists are provided for the items in this section.
CONTROL SYSTEM
The overall control system is shown in Figure 6-1, with references
detail drawings of the various parts. The control stick works the
by push rods and bell cranks and the elevators by a combination of
rod, walking beam, and cables? The rudder is operated by a single
flexible steel cable from each rudder pedal. Notes on the details
each control system, as used on the prototype FLY BABY, follow.
to the
ailerons
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RUDDER CONTROLS
Make one rudder horn per Figure 6-20 Stiffness is achieved by bending
along the dotted line .. This is bolted to the rear face of the rudder
~)ar with the bottom edge of the bent-down flange touching the top bolt of
the bottom rudder hinge, which is located in Figure 3-4.
Some pilots prefer toe brakes to the heel brake system used here. Those
that have pedals and mechanisms for this type of system can make their
own installations as required by the details of their particular equipmento
The installation used on FLY BABY was made primarily in the interest of
simplicity$ See Figure 6-10 for hydraulic brake system.
The rudder pedals can be welded from 1/2au steel tubing .per Figure 6-2 or
can be flat pieces of 3/8" to 1/2" plywood hinged at the bottom with the
hinges bolted to the floor boards9 Tubular hinges are also shown in
Figure 6-2 ~ Note that one of the right-angle stubs at the bottom of the
rudder pedal is longer than the other. This is to allow it to pass
completely through the tubular hinge s'o· that a cotter pin can be slipped
through a steel tube collar to hold the rudder pedal in place. The pedals
can be adjusted for different pilots by means of the adjustment link of
Figure 6-2. For initial installation, have the link attached to the
clevis pin welded to the top of the pedal by the MIDDLE of the three
equally-spaced holes. With the rudder pedal held in the vertical position (floorboard installed in airplane) rig the rudder cables .. Tension
is ·· kept in the system by springs from a second clevis pin welded to the
pedal to an eye bolt on the firewallo The pedals can be adjusted forward and aft of the central position by removing the safety pin holding
the link in place, and using one of the-,. 9ther two attach holes to obtain
the desired positiono
Page 6-1
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�RUDDER CABLE INSTALLATION
This is an operation calling for extremely careful procedure, and the
rudder pedals do not have to be installed in order to do it~ However,
the rudder, with horn installed, must be in place on the airplane.
1.
Drill rudder cable holes in Station 3 and S bulkheads per Figure 1-6,
Detail "F", if not already done.
2.
Mark a spot on the OUTSIDE of the fuselage skin directly opposite the
cable holes on the back face of Station S~
3.
Drive a small nail part way into the wood at this point, and tie a
tight string from it to the rudder horn on the same side of the fuselage, rudder turned to the opposite side of the fuselage.
4.
Mark a line on the side of the fuselage in the area between Stations 7
and 8 (see Figure 1-1). The tight string may not be in contact with
the fuselage throughout this area, so use a right-angle block or square
to make sure that the mark on the skin is parallel to the line.
S-.
Locate the diagonal between Stations 7 and 8, and cut a 3/16" slot
four inches long from the front side of the diagonal FORWARD along the
line.
6.
Install 1/8" rudder cables. It is easiest to install the turnbuckles
on the FORWARD end of each cable first, hook it to the rudder pedal
per Figure 6-2, then thread the bare end aft through the holes in
Stations 3 and S, add a 1/8 11 Nico sleeve per Figure 6-6, and then push
the cable out through the slot in the side of the fuselage. Run the
end through the shackle on the rudder horn and pull out the slack when
the rudder is in the center and the pedals are vertical with the adjustment link hooked on by the middle hole. No tension is rigged into the
rudder cable system. The pilot's feet supply all that's needed, and
the springs keep the pedals from falling backwards flat on the floor
when the pilot's feet aren't on them~
RUDDER CABLE STOPS
It is essential to have rudder stops installed in the system so that · the
fully-deflected rudder will not hit the elevators. On some aircraft,
rr.echcinic.:l stops are bu ; lt .Jri +,he aft enn of the fusela ge to engage the
rudder horn. In the interests of simplicity, FLY BABY uses stops on the
rudder cables themselves. Figure 6-6 shows the method.
L
Make two sets of split block stop blocks per Detail "A" of Figure 6-6.
The Nico sleeve for each cable should already have been slipped on the
cable but not n r 2s sec :.:..ri nla ce our ~~-ng Step 6 of the rudder cable
installationo
2.
With one rudder pedal moved forward 2-1/2 inches from center and the
rudder bow one inch from the levelled elevator on the same side and
all locked in place or held by an assistant, wire a split block to the
cable aft of Station 5 and between the Nico sleeve and the station.
Page
6-4
�3. Slide split block forward until it touches Station 5 and then slide the
Nico sleeve against the split block and hold in place with a piece of
masking tape.
4.
Back off rudder pedal and free rudder, or disconnect cable from one end
or the other entirely to get enough slack in cable to be accessible to
to Nico Press to press Nico sleeve in place.
5.
Repeat for opposite rudder cableo
TAIL WHEEL STEERING
For control on the ground, the tail wheel is steered through the rudder
pedals. To keep shocks out of the system, the tail wheel is hooked to the
rudder through stiff coiled springs. Don't use hardware store variety get them from aircraft supply stores. Details "B" and "C" of Figure 6-6
show the construction and installation of the tail wheel steering horn.
CONTROL STICK AND ATTACHMENTS
The general details of the control stick, and the torque tube that carries
both the control stick and the aileron push rod yoke are shown in Figure 6-3.
The tube fits into split Micarta, aluminum, or even hardwood bearing blocks
bolted to the back side of Station 3 and the front face of Station 4 as
shown in Figures 6-1 and 1-170 Because of the slope of Station 3, the front
face of that set of blocks will have to be bevelled slightly to have the
bearing hole line up with the one in the Stat Jon 4 blocks. To keep the torque
tube from bottoming in either set of blocks, or decreasing bearing area on
one end by fore-and-aft motion, restraining collars are tack-welded to each
end of the tube just outside the blocks. These can be cut from tubing that
fits over the torque tube or thin strips of sheet steel bent into place.
The aileron push rod yokes on the original FLY BABY were drilled to fit the
torque tube as shown because equipment was available to drill the big hole.
This is not necessary for strength, and the yokes can be cut off across
the upper half of the hole so that the hole can be cut with a saw or file.
The reason that the push rods attach to two diagonal legs of a yoke instead
of to a single vertical leg is to help put "Differential" into the system.
For a given movement of the control stick, the aileron that moves upward
moves farther than does the one that moves down. This partly offsets the
phenomenon known as "Adverse Yaw" encountered when applying aileron to
enter a turn. Properly rigged, FLY BABY has an aileron differential ratio
of two to one.
To reduce wear at the control stick bolts, bearing area is added by welding
tubes into the tabs per Detai 1 "E" of Figure 6-r1. After welding in as a
single unit to assure alignment, the middle areas of the tubes are cut out
to fit the control rod and the torque tube. Note that a bearing tube is
welded through the torque tube, too.
PUSH ROD CONSTRUCTION
The push rods for both aileron and elevator control systems are built by
the same method. In the aileron system, it is necessary to have a short
Page
6-5
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Page 6-6,
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�link between the yoke and the push rod in the wing so that the fuselage
end of the wing rod can clear the fuselage along witp the wing spar
fittings during the wing-folding process, While Detail "A" of Figure 6-4
shows the short aileron link, which is the only one with the fork . end on
it, the method of making the
threaded end is the same for allo
Round off the head of an AN-4-12 bolt so that it is a snug fit into the
end of the 1/2" OrD• steel tube push rod, and then weld the bolt in place~
WARNING
If you have ,a ny.doubts at all about your skill as
a welder., have a professional do this job.. There
are relatively few welds in FLY BABY, bu'\. your
life will be· dependent on the quality of the work
in these.
Female rod end bearings are threaded on the extended threads of the bo]±,
and locked in place with jam nuts. Having both ends of each rod threaded
allows a maximunt_amount of adjustment throughout the system. The possibility of having :a component in the system become disconnected through
rod rotation is prevented by the nature of the installationsp None of
the rods can rotate when installed. The long aileron rod has the ..welded
swing link anchor of Figure 4-28, the short link has the _fork end, and
the short push rod and elevator push rod ~re jogged around structure that
prevents all but a small degree of rotation.
·
ELEVATOR CONTROLS
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Control stick motion is transmitted to the elevator cables by means of
the push rod and walking beam of Figure 6-5. As in the rudder system,
turnbuckles are installed at the front end of the system and the cables
attach to the control horn through shackles, thimbles, and Nico sleeves
at the rear end. Note that the elevator cables crpss between the walking
beam and the horn~ The cables can be kept from rubbing on each other at
the crossing point if the walking beam is tipped slightly to one side of
the vertical· and the elevator horn is bent just a bit the opposite way~
There is a discrepancy between the walking beam mount installation in
Figures 6-1 and Detail "D" of Figure 6-5. Figure 6-5 is corre·c t.
' .'
ELEVATOR STOPS
The easiest way to limit elevator travel is by mec~ieal stops. Screw
small blocks of wood, bevelled to fit the angle of the displaced walking
beam, behind Station 5 above and below the walking beam mounts~ - ~rim
t.hese blocks to allow 25 degrees of "Up" ele1rator travel and 20 aegrees
of "Down" travelo
AILERON HOOKUP
The general hookup of the aileron system is shown in Figure 6-1~ The
slight bend at the outer end of the long push rod is for increased clearancFl when the short rod pulls the aileron on that wing to the "Down"
1-----------------------------------------..-.:-Page 6-7
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�position. The bend in the long rod, therefore, is in the chordwise plane
(parallel to the flat bottom of the wing surface). The purpose of the
bend in the short rod is to enable it to pass under the rear spar.
The aileron bell crank of Figures 4-5 and 4-27 should point INBOARD, as
shown in Figure 6-1, but for the trial setup, the long inward-pointing
arm should be adjusted to point a little aft of straight inward. With
the control stick vertical, both ailerons should fair evenly with the
wing.
CAUTION
Be careful, when installing push rods, that approximately an even number of threads are engaged in each
threaded rod end bearing. Don't lengthen a rod by
screwing just one end bearing out too far.
There is no need for stops in the aileron system. The bottom edge of the
"Down" aileron spar hits the aileron mounting spar in the wing over its·
full length. Since the "Up" aileron is hooked into the same rigid system,
it is stopped by the blocking of the 11 Down" movement.
FLOOR BOARDS
The two floor boards are shown in Figure 6-7. Cutouts in the forward
floor are for the hydraulic breakes as shown in Figure 6-10. The round
forward holes are for access to the reservoir filler plugs. The rudder
pedals are bolted to the forward floor per Figure 6-lo The quarterround cutouts in the rear floorboard are for access to the saiety pins
on the forward end of the wing spar attach pins that go through Station J.
To install or remove the rear floorboa~d, it is necessary to disconnect
one rudder cable from the pedal. Both floor~oards can be held down by
wood screws into the fuselage cross me~bers, ·
SEAT
Many pilots may want something more comfortable than the -s.e at shown in
Figure 6-8, but this is . simple·,- and does the job. The h:iitged back swings
forward for access to the area.. _aft of Station 5 for oaggage; inspection,
etc. Nothing holds the seat down except the pilot's weight, and it won't
rise ·off of its mounting ri:d:ls in rough ~1 i air if the pilot has his seat
belt and shoulder harness -'-snug. The seat is adjustable several inches
fore and aft by fitting vari~us notches over the Station 4 cross piece or
over the rear stop block. For height adjustment, use a cushion. The
seat has been made as low as possible so that tall pilots won't stick too
far out of the cockpit.
1
SAFETY BELT
A safety belt is mandatory equipment under Civil Air Regulations.
While
automobile seat belts are "as good as" approved aircraft belts, it is best
to get the aircraft type, especially if shoulder harness is to be usede
Page 6-10
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�Bolt the ends to the double lower longeron structure by a 1-4 inch bolt
through either the filler block immediately ·• ahead of Station ·5 per
Figure 6-9 or to one of the forward bolts of the rear pontoon fitting
if installed.
SHOULDER HARNESS
Shoulder harness is not required by Civil Air Regulations, but is one of
the best investments in safety that you can make. Apprq,ved shoulder harness
is available at aircraft supply stores and some military surplus storeso
The type used in FLY BABY is actually an aerial gunner 1 s harness. Installation of this particular style is shown in Figure 6-9. A 1/8 inch steel
cable is Nico-pressed to two 45-degree steel fittings bolted to the Station 6 uprights. The rear face of the fitting distributes the load into
the upright and does not load the 3/16 inch bolt. The bolt only holds the
fitting in place. The anchor end of the harness is slipped over the cable
before the cable is attached to the fittings, and passes into the cockpit
through the slot in the top of Station 5. On properly matched sets, the
shoulder harness and safety belt are all secured through a single quickdisconnect latch.
HYDRAULIC BR.AKES
Hydraulic breakes seem to be the most easily obtainable type in the sizes
used on FLY BABY, so they were used. If your plane is to be switched from
wheels to floats or skiis very often, it would be more convenient to have
mechanical breakes to eliminate the need to refill the hydraulic system
after each return to wheels.
The hydraulic actuators are standard SCOTT units as used on Piper J-3
"Cub" airplanes and other Piper models. These are installed per Figure
6-10. As obtained from a "Cub", these units should have the pedals
parallel to the mounting lugs, as shown, or they may have been rotated
to a perpendicular position for another installationo . It is easy to
dismantle the units and relocate the pedals.
The breakes are the expander-tube type used on the 8.00 x 4 wheels of
Piper "Cubs", "Vagabonds", and "Cruisers". The hydraulic fitting and
bleeder valve should be installed behind the axle as shown in Figu're 6-10.
The brake assembly is bolted to the brake mounting plate assembly of
Figure· 2-4. The drum on the wheel slips over it.
The interconnecting hydraulic lines, one from the left pedal to the left
brake and one from the riiht pedal to the right brake, are made from 1/4
inch diameter 52 SO aluminum tubin& with standard flared ends am fittinis.
If you do not have the equipment to do this, most mechanics at any small
airport shop can do it for youo This tubing is quite soft, and can be
bent to fit the proper locations without need to worry about annealing to
prevent subsequent cracking. These tubes are fastended to the wooden
landing gear struts with insulated electrician's staples.
Page 6-14
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Page 6-16
�PITOT-STATIC SYSTEM
v
The three flight instruments (Altimeter, Air Speed Indicator, and Rate-ofClimb) are installed in the removable center panel of the instrument panel
shown in Figure 1-21. Both the airspeed and the altimeter are required
equipment under Civil Air Regulations. The hookup for these and the pitot
mast on the left wing, is shown in Figure 6-11. Those who have the facilities and inclination will prefer to make the hookup with 1/4 inch 52 SO
aluminum tubing and standard end fittings. An eas-ier way is · to use rubber
or plastic tubing with the ends wired in place. In any case, short lengths
of rubber or other flexible and easily-disconnected ·tubing will have to be
used when folding the wing. If slack is left in the tubing where it passes
from the fuselage to the left wing, it can slide through the holes of
Detail "B", Figure 6-11, and follow the swing motion of the wing. Be
sure ·- that the tubing does not get pinched by the wing when it is unfolded
and pressed into place. If it is desirable to have tubing without slack,
·~ e tubes can be disconnected through use of aluminum tube inserts per
Detail "B". Note that the mismatched fittings prevent inadvertent
reversal of hookups. Detail "A" shows the position of the instruments
on the panel (don't for get that you are looking at-. the backside of the
panel here, relative to the cockpit).
The pitot mast is a simple wooden stick with the two tubes taped to it,
per Detail "D", and the whole assembly is bolted to the tab on the wing
·r ib shown in Figure 4-26" Short lengths of rubber tubing connect the tubes
on the mast to the tubes running through the wing to the fuselage. The
mast is removable, and the tubes can be disconnected by means of an access
hole cut in the leading edge covering metal described in Section 7. The·
ope.n end of · the STAT"IC tube is sealed off by pinching, welding, or a ti&h~
machine or P-K screw, and several small holes, up to 1/16 inch diameter,
are drilled just behind the sealed end. The PITOT line is left open. The
downward bend makes a moisture trap to keep rain water from getting into
the systemo
The PITOT line runs only to the "P" fitting on the back of the airspeed
indicator. Check that the pitot line in the cockpit is hooked to the
pitot line in the wing by having someone blow into the end of the pitot
tube while you hold a finger · over the DISCONNECTED inner end of the line.
If you can feel air pressure, the connections are right and you can hook
the line to the airspeed indicator. The STATIC line is connected to the
"S" fittings of all three instruments through two tees as shown in
Detail "A".
WING HINGE
Some builders may not want to bother with the folding-wing feature of FLY
BABY. Since the hinge is entirely independent of the wing fittings, it can
be left off without difficulty.
The hinge itself is a sort of sliding universal, the operation of which is
detailed in Figure 8-6• The tube in which the 1-inch aluminum rod (or
equivalent) slides is anchored in the double lower longeron structure and
an inner set of support members detailed in Figure 1-18. The location
Page 6-17
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Page 6-18
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�of the hole relative to Station 3 is shown in Detail "D" of Figure 1-7 •.
The tubes are anchored by hose clamps at each end per Figure 6-12. The
rod is attached to the wing AFTER the wing has been fitted in place as
described in Section 8. With the rod in place inside the tube, the fittings
that fasten it to the wing and serve as hinges ·· ( detailed in Figure 4-3
and 4-29) are bolted to the end of the rod with a 1/4-inch bolt and are then
pressed against the end of the wing. Marks are made through the bolt holes
in the fitting flanges to locate the bolt holes to be · drilled in the hinge
support fitting of Figures 4-3 and 4-17. Remove wing, drill holes, and
bolt hinie fitting in place.
WING POSITIONING PIN
To keep the wing tip in place on the stabilizer when the wing is folded,
a pin anchored in the wooden wing tip bow is inserted in a ~ole in . the
wooden block shown · in Figure 3-6. Alignment is best obtained by-folding
the UNCOVERED wing, with the hinge properly mounted, and resting the tip
bow on the stabilizer block per ·Figure 6-13. Using a 1/8 or 3/16 inch
drill in an electric hand drill, drill upward through the stabilizer block
into the wing tip bow. To prevent the pin binding in the hole as the win1
pivots about the rod in the tube at. Station 3, be sure that the hole is
exactly at right angles to a line connecting the point of contact of the
bow and the black to the rod~ Thia is a pilot hole that can be enlar1ed
later. Both of the systems of Figure 6-13 have been used. The wooden
dowel tends to break under rough handling, 10 the stave bolt with the
head cut off and welded to a steel tab is the most durable.
FORWARD TURTLEDICIC
The turtledeck between .the oockpit and thefir-ll~s formed from a £lat
sheet ot aluminum, .O2on or thicker. The rear portion of this turtledeck
ia even with the instrument panel to a point just inboard of each aide
\ wind1hield frame. For trial installation, make this cutout somewhat
narrower. lote from Detail "A" of Figure 6-14 that this piece curves to
meet the upper longeron at a point 10" aft or the instrument ·panel. The
turtledeck is aecured by machine screws · through the nutplates on theinside of the fuaela1e
Figure 1-22, Detail "A•) and on the underside
ot the laminated wood bow on· the back side of the top of the firewall
(Fipre 1-16). lutplatee oan also be located along the underside or the
instrument panel bow. Four-inch spacing of holding screws along the bows
and sides is adequate.
<•••
WINDSHIELD
The windshield is made of three flat pie0e1 of l/8" Plexi1lass held t~1ether
by aluminum frames. Thia configuration was picked for two reason ■ - the
three small pieces cost lees than the sincle lar1e piece necessary to make
a one-piece curved windshield, and the three-piece assembly can aatch up
to an alternate eliding canopy also built up of three pieces to ' avoid tb1
need to mould a compound cune into a large single piece for the 1lidin1
canopy.
Page 6-20
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Page 6-21
�Figure 6-14 shows the method of deve:l oping the shapes of the flat panels
and the anchor strips needed to match the curve of the forward turtledeck._
1.
Build a "Mock-up" frame of small wood strips held together with tape
as shown in Detail nA".
2.
Cut cardboard panels to fit by "Cut-and-Try" method per Step "B" and
mark the curve X-Y on the turtledeck.
3o
Transfer the curve X-Y obtained in Step "B" from the cardboard to the
EDGE of a piece of plywood 1/4" or more thick, per Step "C".
4.
Duplicate the curve on a second piece of plywood and cut out the curve
per Step "D".
5o Transfer the X-Y curve to a sheet of 1/16" soft · aluminum per Step "E"
and mark parallel .lines 1/2 inch on each side of X-Y, Cut the aluminum
with tin snips to the outside lines (make two pieces).
60
Clamp one strip at a time between the pieces of plywood with the edge
of the cutout on the X-Y centerline~ Bend protruding edge by hand
or soft hammer so that aluminum fits changing contours of turtledeck.
Don't forget to make one RIGHT-HAND piece and one LEFT-HAND.
7.
Repeat Steps 2 through· 6 for the curve X-Z on the flat center panel.
Step "G" shows the aluminum edge and corner framing, The corner pieces
are bent to fit from strips of 1-1/4" soft aluminum and the edge pieces are
bent double from strips of 1-1/2" soft aluminum. The easiest way to do
this with only home equipment is to bend it around the edge of a piece of
1/8" thick steel or other metal,, After the frames are fitted for a trial,
hold the two curved bottom frames in place on the turtledeck and drill in
place for 3/32" to 1/8 11 soft aluminum rivets or 1/8 11 bolts. Clamp the
side plexiglass panels lightly to the bottom framesq Check that the edge
frames and center panel fit, then remove them and drill holes for 1/8 11
bolts through both the bottom frames and the side panels. With side
panels bolted in, clamp on side frames and center panel, and drill for 1/8"
bolts. DO NOT RIVET through plexiglass. Use bolts, slightly loose, to
avoid pressure on the plexiglass and to allow for expansion.
AFT TURrLEDECK AND HEADREST
The aft turtledeck is removable to permit alternate installation of a transparent structure built up higher to fit to a sliding canopy that matches the
existing windshield. Construction details are given in Figure 6-15.
lo
Cut 12 1/8" x 3/4" x 49" wood strips and laminate to the curve of the
upper longeron per Detail "A" of Figure 6-1.5. The forward ends of the
pieces formed should fit INSIDE the forward turtledeck metal for about
two inches.
2.
Cut forward and rear formers per Detail "A". Forward former is drawn
as shown, rear is marked off of existing Station 6.
Page 6-22
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Page
6-23
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_ _______ _____ ...._
3. Cut additional 1/8" x 3/4" strips to laminate into stiffening
bows on
inner faces . of formers of Step 2.
4~ Secure formers to laminated side pieces ·with plywood corner blocks
shown in sub-detail of "A". Wood dowels at Station 6 former fit into centering holes in existing Station 6 former. The front end is held down
by trunk latches screwed to the turtledeck laminated strips and to 3/4"
plywood blocks glued under the longerons just aft of the windshield.
5o
The turtledeck is covered with two separate pieces of sheet aluminum,
.020" or thicker, per Detail "B". "Eyeball 11 a satisfactory curve A-B
for one side then duplicate it by measurement for the other side. Turtledeck metal should be flush with front face of forward former for width
of headrest (Detail 11 D11 ) .
6. The reinforcement for the turtledeck metal at the cockpit is made from
eight pieces of 1/8" plywood per Detail "C". Grain of plywood should
parallel the longeron. First, lay a piece of 12 11 x 19" plywood inside
the cutout in the turtledeck so that the plywood is tight against the
longeron, the metal, and the forward face of the front former 9 Mark
the curve A-B on the plywood with a pencilo Mark parallel lines 111
below the A-B curve, and make a leg l" wide as indicated. Install four
strips on each side by coating with glue and clamping in place so that
rigid structure results from pieces being glued into the curve.
7. The headrest is built as shown in Detail "D" and covered with a single
piece of aluminum 0020 11 or thicker. The bottom crosspiece has been
drawn straight in error~ This should be curved, either laminated from
strips or cut from plywood to fit the curve of the turtledecko Support
for top longitudinal is as shown. Bevel lower longitudinals to fit
turtledeck as shown _in sub-detail of "D" and secure with screws from
inside turtledeck.
ENGINE COWLING
This is probably -the area where the greatest number of individual varia. tions will appear. This is entirely permissible, and there will b·e little
noticeable effect on airplane performance. The cowling used on the original
FLY BABY was from a Piper J-3 "Cub". The two formed Piper nose pieces were
used. as were the two airscoops over the cylinders. It is necessary to make
new -flat-wrap sections between the nose pieces and the firewall. The
method of attaching the upper and lower cowlings to the fuselage are shown
in the detail of Figure 6-16. Note that the upper pin on each side holds
both the top and the bottom cowling. Similar mounting pin assemblies can
be made to bolt to the front of the engine to hold ·the forward portion of
the cowlings, or standard Piper parts can be used.
The Piper cowling installation is by far the easiest to make. "Closed"
types from Taylorcrafts, Aeroncas, and ia... Pipers require internal
baffling to fit the particular cmrl, so for these, study the installation
used on the specific airplane model that your cowling comes from. Cutouts
in the bottom cowling piece for carburetor air scoop will depend on the
particular scoop used.
Page 6-24
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Page
6-25
�STREAMLINED BAGGAGE CONTAINER
One of the unique·features of FLY BABY is the provision for an external
baggage container, essentially a streamlined suitcase hung beneath the
airplane that can be unfastened and carried to whPrever the pilot is
staying. This has no noticeable effect on airplane trim or balance, and
seems to decrease the cruising speed between two and three miles per hour.
Figure 6-17 shows the general construction, which in the case of the original was all aluminum. The size was determined by the availability of a 10 11
metal spinning die, so the half-round ends were made this size. Plastic
flowerpots or lampshades of approximately the same diameter would do the
job just as well. An inner doubler is used to join each end to the flatwrap middle section. An area between the top and side centerlines on one
side is hinged for access and is secured with standard trunk latches
obtainable at any hardware store.
A special support must be built into the fuselage if the streamlined suit-
case or other external load is to be carried. Flat steel tabs with a steel
tube welded between them are bolted to the back face of Station 2 and the
front of Station 3 as shown in Figure 6-18. The tube should lie flat
against the bottom fuselage fabric. In order for the suitcase to hani
parallel with the airstream, a wooden wedge must be fitted between the top
of the suitcase handle and the belly of the airplane. Note that the two
stove bolts are welded in place.
Page 6-26
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Page 6-27
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SECTION 7 - COVERING
FLY BABY is a conventional fabric-covered airplane except for the side areas
of the fuselage, and the method of fabric application is standard. The
"Large Airplane" techniques illustrated in Manual 18 can be followed, complP.te to rib-stitching: or the cement-on technique now widely used on homebuilts can be followed ., Fabric can be of two general kinds, intermediate
grade mercerized cotton or Irish linen, as used on production aircraft,
or the new synthetic Dacron~ Dacron again offers two choices~ A commercial
product is marketed under the · trade name of Ceeonite, and is approved for
commercial aircraft ~ However, essentially the same material is available
at lower prices as Dacron Polyester Taffeta (nurse's uniform material) from
dry goods stores, Montgomery Ward and Sears Roebuck mail order catalogues,
and Penney 1 s and Newberry storeso
The regular fabrics are shrunk by dope after application to the frame;
Dacron is shrurik with a hot iron and results ·in a great saving in dope.
Dope is still used, however, for sealing and finish.
COVERING - BILL OF MATERIALS
Suitable quantity of fabric (original FLY· BABY used
4}4 inches wide)
50
yards of Dacron,
1 roll ·p inked-edge tape 1-1/2" to 2" wide
1 roll pinked-edge tape 3/4" to l" wide
5 gallons clear dope
5 gallons dope thinner
3 gallons pigmented dope
-~
1 quart zinc chromate
1 quart Zoluol or' thinner suitable for chromate
1 quart enamel in desired color
1 quart suitable thinner for enamel
1 quart Goodyear pliobond cement
2 quarts lacquer or fabric cement
20
4-1/2" plastic inspection ringe
20
L.-1/2" metal inspection plates
100 plastic drain grommets
75 feet lh" x .016 aluminum flashing (builder's aluminum)
Page 7-1
�COVERING WING AND TAIL SURFAC:ES
Before covering the wing, the wing structure must be completed per the
instructions in Section 8, and the surfaces must be signed off as "OK to
cover" by your FAA Engineering Inspector. Each .wing is covered separately
after the leading edges have been covered with .016 11 sheet aluminum. Detail
"A" of Figure 7-1 shows the two-stage procedure used when covering with
half-hard aluminum flashing purchased at most hardware stores. Covering an
area between four nose ribs at a time, lay the aluminum lengthwise along the
BOTTOM of the leading edge ribs. Use No. 20 nails to tack the aluminum to
the between~ribs filler strip on the bottom of the front spar. With a
short stiek 9 press the aluminum against the bottom contours of the nose
ribs, following up with No. 20 nails. Trim_ the outer edge of the aluminum,
leaving enough to bend around the end of the leading edge wood. Repeat the
process on the upper curve of the ribs, letting the outer edge be laid flush
against the leading edge strip, overlapping the bottom aluminumo Because of
the wing tip curve, it will be necessary to apply the aluminum from Rib No. 2
outward in smaller sections.
·•
After the leading edge of the left wing is covered with aluminum, cut a hole
in it just inboard of Nose Rib 4F for a trial installation of the pitot mast
( see Figure 4-26) o The wooden mount should be bolted to Rib 4F before adding
aluminum.
Cut a 2" circular access ~ole to allow hookup of the flexible
tubing that connects the lines in the wing to the ends of the tubes on the
mast. If you intend to leave the mast on permanently, this hole can later
be covered with fabr~cc If you think it desirable to remove the mast at
some future time, as for storing the wing on its leading edge, cut a hole
the same size in a piece of plywood and use the plywood as a doubler on
the inside of the aluminum (do this before applyine top aluminum). A
removable metal patch can then be held to the doubler with small wood screws,
Detail "B" of Figure 7-1 shows the methodsof applying .016" aluminum to
the leading edges of the tail surfaces. The method is practically the same,
cover one side at a time, as shown by (l) and (2), letting the second overlap
the first. Because of the compound curve at the tip, don't bring the aluminum around the edge at this point but end it short of the edge as shown~
Before starting to cover the wing with fabric, ·apply rib tapes zig zag over
the ribs midway between the spars as shown in Detail "A" of Figure 7-40
Secure each point of contact with a small nail. To keep the upper surface
fabric from sticking to the top of the rear spar between the root rib and
the aileron cutout, stretch a strip of pinked-edge tape TIGHT between the
root rib and Rib 7, using two nails at each end. It is not necessary to
apply tape over the spar in other areas. The tendency of the fabric to
stretch into a straight line between the front spar and the trailing edge
pulls it down into contact with this portion of the rear spar, and when
the dope is wet, it will stick. The aileron cutout plywood takes care of
the problem in that area. Before applying fabric, lay masking tape or
Scotch cellophane tape over the lap joints in the leading edge aluminum
of wings and tail.
If your fabric is wider than 54", each side of a wing panel can be covered
in one piece. However, most of the commercial Dacron . is less than this, so
_____.,
'---
__________________________________~------~
Page 7-2
- -··
�r. ,
@
--FIGURE..
I-1. -
COVE.R ltJG
pROCED URE .
Page
7-3
�the j~b must be done by pieces. If the fabric width is enough to cover the
area· ahead of the aileron, cut pieces as shown in Detail "C" of Figure 7-1,
one from Rib 7 to the tip and two running chordwise, one between Ribs 7
and 9 and the other between Ribs 9 and 11.
Using the three-piece method illustrated in Figure 7-1 as an example,
apply the wing fabric as follows:
':.--
1.
Cut fabric to fit, leaving at least 2" overlap on the leading edge
for the big panel if possible.
2.
Two different types of cement can be used for the cement-on process,
Goodyear Pliobond or regular aircraft lacquer cement thinned to
brushing consistency. In either case, brush over the cap strips of
each rib and around the wooden wingtip bow and the trailing edges with
the cement and let dry. Don't apply cement to the aluminum leadinc
edge. With Pliobond, brush a strip about ai · inch and a half wide on
the plywood adjacent to Rib 11. With cement, coat the whole flat wood
area. Let the cement dry thoroughly before applying fabric.
J.
Apply dabs of cement at Points 3 and 4 on the UNDERSIDE of the wing and
pull the fabric tight across thos points, holding it with a pi~ or
thumb tack.
4.
Take the back portion of the fabric and fold it forward dcross the
portion ahead of the attached points. Go over the OUTER EDGES of the
exposed structur~ ONLY with pliobond or thinned fabric cement.
.
NOTE
Pliobond comes in a wide-mouth can with a small brush
attached to the lid. When usirlg fabric cement, have
the cement in a wide-mouth container, with plenty of
liquid available. A paper "Hot-Cup" is excellent.
Be sure, however, that it is a "Hot" eup and not a
regular one with waxed surfaces. The wax dissolve• ·
in the cement with unfortunate results. Use a 1/2n ·to
l" paint brush to apply fabric cement thinned to a
good brushing consistency.
5.
With the cement still wet, lay the fabric back over the structure
and work out the wrinkles by pulling the fabric over the trailing
edge~ wingtip, and root rib, while the cement ·i s still soft. If any
areas start to set, brush through the fabric with more cement.
6. Fold the other half of the fabric ·back over the cemented-down fabric
and repeat the cement coating of the wooden structure. Apply a cqat of
thinner dope to the leading edge, then fold the fabric back while the
dope is wet and repeat the wrinkle-pulling procedure. Brush more dope
through the fabric from the front spar FORWARD .
•
•
Page
7-4
�' r-- .
,\
7. Cement the trailing edge overlap the the TOP SIDE of the trailing edi•
and at least 2" above the leading edge strip~ Trim flush at root rib.
Notch overlap at tip bow to lay down around compound curve.
8 •· Repeat Steps 1 through 7 for the inboard rib areas •exeept that fabric
overlap on fabric need by only 1/2".
NOTE
This fold over method is best for people working -. alone • .
With two pairs of hands available, it is possible to
apply cement to the whole outer edge of the frame and
lay the large piece of fabric on flat.
,
..
9. Repeat Steps 1 through 8 for top surface of wing, allowing same amount
of overlap for edges. Use only thinned fabric cement or clear dope when
cementing fabric to fabric.
10.
·•
With most of the wrinkles pulled outct\hoth sides ar the fabric, brush
through the fabric over each rib with Pliobond or lacquer cement, whichever was used, and ·then rub the wet cement through with y9ur thumb to
get a good bond.
11 • . Tail surfaces are covered one piece to a side.
The easiest procedure
is to cement the fabric to the spar of each surface after pre-cementing
per Step 2, then fold it back and apply fresh cement to the outer wood
areas and thinned dope to the aluminum leading edge. Allow at least 111
leading edge overlap for each piece. Do not lap fabric around rear face
of sparf
12 • . For Dacron covered wings, use an electric hand iron set to about threequarters maximum heat to shrink the fabric. Touch the iron VERY
LIGHTLY to the fabric and KEEP IT MOVING. Too fast and the fabric
won't shrink; too slow and it'll scorch or melt. If .any wrinkles
remain in the corners, touch .them with the point of the irono Areas
riot quite tight can be gone over again.
4" br-q~h to put on a
heavy first coat of clear nitrate dope thinned at least 50-50. On ·_.
the wings, _brush the TOP surface first, then ttµ"n ·the wing over·wh~le
the dope is still wet, supporting it by the tip bow and root rib with
saw horses. The reason for this is to allow the wet fabric to sag AWAY
from the edge of the rear spar, which is only 114• beneath it, to keep
it from sticking. This is not ? problem on . the 0ail surfaces · or aileton~ ·
It may not even be a problem on the under surface of the wing, depending on your fabric job and doping conditions. If the bottom fabric
doesn't sag onto the rear spar inboard of the aileron when the wing is
upside down for doping, it will not be necessary to turn it over. Brush
in a chordwise direction, and don't be afraid to slop the dope on. The
., brush should not skip or leave any tiny dry areas o
13. For regular fabric covered wings, use a 311 or
Page
7-5
�NOTE
This document is no place to take up the controversy between
Nitrate and Butyrate dope. Nitrate is cheaper and the author
feels that it is better suited to the build-up coats. Finish
coats of Butyrate still have the Butyrate fire-retardant
characteristic.
14.
Apply pinked edge tape over wing and tail ribs after the Dacron has been
shrunk or after the second coat of clear dope on fabric~ This tape can
be anywhere between 3/4" and 1-1/2". "Predoped" tape is best if you can
get it, but it is more expensive. Undoped tape needs more coats of
dope when on the wing. Cut tape to approximate, length, lay it on a
clean flat surface (the wing will do) and dope one side of it so that
it is rea~ly wet with clear dope (you can soak it in the dope .bucket if
you like). Brush a streak of dope over the rib the same width as the
tape, then pick up the tape by the· ends·, stretch it a bit, and lay it
along the rib. Rub out all air bubbles with your fingers and then
brush on another good wet coat of clear dope. Do this on all wing and
tail ribs not covered with plywood. Trim tapes off at trailing edge but
,allow about 2" overlap at leading edge.
15.,
Now start laying the edge tapes, preferably 2" wide. These cover leading
and trailing edges,· tip bows, and upper and lower edges of root ribs.
On trailing edges, tapes are centered on edge, with half cemented to each
side. On corners, as at end rib and aileron cut-out, half is on the
surface, half bent around the edge, For wingtip bow, compound curve can
be taken by thproughly soaking tape in dope, nailing one end dowrrto
leading edge at Rib 2F, and pulling TIGHT around the bow. For sharper
curves on tail tips, it may be necessary to notch the edge of the taJ)e
to get it to lay down without wrinklingo See Detail "D" of Figure 7-40
While it is hardly required on a· plane ·w:ith FLY BABY' s SJ)eed, an old
trick of taping the trailing edge of high-speed fabric covered planes is
to notch the spanwise tape as shown in Detail "E" of Figure 7-4. In case
the airstream lifts the tape in one area, it will not pull up over the
full length of the wing.
16 •. App]y at least two coats of c lea:t''·'dope to Dacron and enough coats to
fabric to fill the cloth and pull it tight, Sand fabric LIGHTLY between
coats with fine wet-or-dry sandpaper used dry.
17. After taping and clear doping but before applying pigmented dope,
four-inch plastic inspection rings per Detail "A" of Figure 7-5 are
cemented to the bottom wing fabric with Pliobond aft o1. the front spar
and forward of the rear spar at each compression rib-to-spar joint.
Another is cemented over the aileron bell crank between Ribs 4 and 5
just aft of the front spar and one is added to the bottom fin rib-fin
spar corner per Detail "A" of Figure 7-3.
CAUTION
Center the aileron bell crank ring so that the safety
pins on both push rods and the bell crank hinge bolt
can be reached when the fabric is cut out of the
center of the ring.
Page 7-6
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rUSEL~C.e. f'A-e,R\C.
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Page
7-7
�Page.
7-8
�The easiest way to locate the compression rib points and the bell crank
without measuring from the drawings is to hold a light near the top
side fabric. Proper location of the ring is determined by the shadowo
Draw around the ring with a pencil, then coat that area on the fabric
with Pliobond and coat the matching surface of the ring with Pliobond,
When the cement is nearly dry, press the ring in place.
NOTE
Since the surface has to be okayed by the FAA engineering
inspection before the covering is put on, it is not necessary
to cut out the fabric in the center of the inspection rings
until the plane comes up £or relicense a year after first
flight. It will be necessary to cut the fabric out of the
ring over the aileron bell crank and the corner of. the fin
for access purposes. Covers for cut-out rings can be obtained from the same aircraft supply stores as the inspection rings.
18.
After clear-doping, add drain and ventilation gromments to the under
surface trailing edges of wing and tail surfaces on the OUTBOARD side
of each wing rib as close to the joint between-rib and trailing edge
as possible. Put grommets in the area ahead of the aileron cutout
area and on UPPER side of vertical fin and rudder adjacent to fin spar
and rudder trailing edge bow on one side of vertical surface only. If
the flat grommets are used per Detail "B" of Figure 7-5, the holes can
be cut after the grommets are in place. Use Pliobond on both fabric
and grommets as done with the inspection rings, and cut the hole with
a thin knife blade; don't use a drill. If the "Seaplane" grommets of
Detail "C" are used, the hole will have to be cut first. The open end
of the seaplane grommet faces afte This type of grommet gives better
ventilation, but has a slight disadvantage when trailering in the rain
in that the cups point upward when the wings are folded and catch rain.
190
Make tail surface hinge line seals by cutting a strip of scrap fabric
with pinking shears to cross the hinge line from the top of one surface
to the bottom of the other per Detail "E" of Figure 7-5, with about
enough on each surface to overlap the width of the spar. Soak the
fabric in dope and apply it wet. Try not to get much more dope on the
seals during the pigment-doping operation of the seals will pull too
tight.
20.
Seal the aileron hinge by laying a wet pinked-edge fabric strip over
the hinge gap with the aile ran in the full OOWN position per Detail "F"
of Figure 7-5 and press the fabric into the gap about 1/8 11 •
2L
s·PRAY on two light coats of silver pigmented dope or one heavy one.
Two heavy ones are preferred if you want a good finish, sanding both
with WET sandpapero Silver dope is made by adding aluminum paste or
powder dissolved in dope thinner to clear dope, about a teaspoonful
of powder or paste to a quart of dopeo Thin dope to spraying cons~ency.
Page 7-9
�®
FIGURE.
'7-5
E.XTE.R\OR
DETAILS
------Page 7-10
�22.
Pigmented dope, either Nitrate or Butyrate, or Enamel if you prefer, is
sprayed on. Use at least two heavy cross-coats, sanding with wet WetDry sandpaperafter the first one. The term "Cross-Coat" here means
spraying the surface first with chordwise spray strokes and then spraying right over it again with spanwise strokes while the chordwise strokes
are still wet, actually two coats in a single application. The second
cross-coat is put on after the first has dried. With Butyrate pigment
over Nitrate Silver, the surface is ready for a second coat in about an
hour in a well-heated shop. With Nitrate pigment, let the first coat set
up at least overnight.
·
CAUTION
You can put Butyrate dope or Enamel OVER Nitrate dope,
but you CANNOI' put Nitrate dope or lacquer over Butyrate
or Enamel.
COVERING THE FUSELAGE
The technique of fabric handling for the fuselage is essentially the same as
that for the wing; however, a little wood work must be done first to provide
anchors for the forward belly fabric and the aft turtledeck fabric.
NOTE
It is easiest to cover the fuselage before the engine,
forward turtle deck,and landing gear are permanently
installed. This way, the light weight fuselage can be
laid on two saw horses and rotated so that the working
surface is always on top, making it easier to lay fabric
and keeping the dope from running dawn the sides.
1.
Cut and fjt spruce fabric anchors around the four landing gear attach
fittings per Figure 7-2 (make six if the rear float strut fittings for
the seaplane version are installed). Start by cutting triangular pieces
per Detail "A" of Figure 7-2. Then cut a shallow section out of the
middl~ to clear the thickness _o f the landing gear/float fitting per
Detail "B". To clear the width of the installed strut, cut into the
sharp edge of the triangle per Detail "C". These three steps are shown
with the triangular block turned upside down for clarity. See Installation Sketch "E".
2P
Scrape varnish off of fuselage gussets where triangular fabric anchors
are to be glued on, and nail and glue anchors in place. After glue has
set, take wood file or knife and trim anchors so that slope of the triangle is just on a straight line from the outer edge of the longeron to
the belly stringer.
J.
At Station 2, fill in between the two belly stringers and the lon~eron
with scraps of wood per Detail "D" of Figure 7-2, and notch the stringers
aft of the fill to take a flat piece of 1/8" plywood 1-1/2" wide per
Detail "F". Butt the ends of the outside pieces of plywood to the triangular fabric anchors at Station 2.
Page 7-11
�4.
Lay fuselaga on its side on a pair of sawhorses and brush on a coat of
clear dope to the full length of the outer side of the plywood from a
line·parallel to the firewall and 16" behind it. From this line forward, apply two coats of varnish to the wood. Repeat above for opposite side.
5.
Cut a sheet of .016" or thinner aluminum to cover the 16" wide area aft
of the firewall on each side of the fuselage. The forward edge is held
down by the seven bolts holding the engine mount corner angle of Figure
1-160 The forward edge of the -' side aluminum lays under the bent-back
edge of the firewall. The top and bottom edges are held down by No. 20
nails driven through the plywood into the longerons and the back edge
does not have to oo fastened down. The purpose of this metal is to keep
bare wood ·and doped fabric a safe distance from the engine area. It's
an FAA requirement on standard aircraft.
6.
Cover the plywood on each side of the fuselage with fabric. This is a
very important protective measure for a plywood-covered fuselage. For
one man working alon·e , the easiest way is to tack the fabric to the
rudder post midway between the top and bottom longeron and pull it
tight forward. Brush through the fabric with dope at good brushing
consistency, brusping _forward and outward from the centerline of the
fuselage side at the tailpost, working out air bubbles and pulling
fabric tight over the edges af the longerons as you work forward.
The forward edge of the side fabric overlaps the rear edge of the
aluminum sheet at the nose by l" and is fastened down with PliobondQ
A piece of pinked-edge tape l" wide is stuck down with Pliobond to
hold the fabric edge, 1/2" of the tape on the fabric and 1/2" on the
metal.
7.
Cover each side and the bottom edge of the underfin with separate pieces
of fabric.
81
Pre-cement the belly stringers as done on wing ribs, then cover the belly
with a single piece of fabric between the Station 2 fabric anchor built
in Step 3 and the Station 9 crosspiece at the leading edge of the underfin. Do not cement the belly fabric to the bottoms of the longerons,
but to the plywood sides of the fuselage, The wrinkled overlap can be
trimmed off with a sharp razor blade about 1/2" above the bottom of the
longeron before the dope sets without cutting into the side fabric
underneath it ..
9.
Brush through fabric to stringers with cement and rub with finger to get
a good bond.
10.o Lay 1-1/2" or 2 11 corner tapes on bottom longerons to overlap side and
bottom per Detail "C" of Figure 7-4, and lay 3/4" to l" tapes along
belly stringers. Tape across edge of Station 2 fabric anchor~
11.
Before covering turtledeck between Stations 6 and 8 with a single piece
of fabric, fit scraps of wood under the bottom nose rib of the fin and
between the adjacent stringers as shown in Detail "D" of Figure 7-3 to
serve as a fabric anchor in the forward fin/fuselage intersection area~
Pre-cement stringers and fabric anchor before applying fabric.
Page 7-12
�120
Apply turtledeck fabric like belly fabric, by overlapping plywood · sides
and trimming to 1/2" overlapo Brush cement through fabric to longerons
after fabric is secured at sides, and apply tapes after Dacron is ironshrunk or fabric has second coat of clear dope. Lay side tapes per
Detail "C" of Figure 7-4 and Station 6 corner tape per Detail "D" of
Figure 7-h~ Note cuts made in folded-over edge of tape to get it to
lay flat on the front side of Station 6.
13.
The areas between the bottom fin rib and the upper longerons are
covered by cutting and fitting pieces of ,016 11 sheet aluminum to each
side per Detail "E" of Figure 7-3. There should be no need ever to
remove these fairings, so they can be put on with No. 20 nails and
then covered with fabric. Cut fabric to fit the curved area, and lay
tape over the joints and onto the fin and fuselage side.
lh.
After fuselage is silver-doped on fabric am wood areas, add drain
grommets to belly fabrico These should include three at Station 9, two
between the · longerons and belly stringers, as close to the stringers
as possible, and one between the stringers. With the fuselage sitting
on the landing gear and tail wheel, pour a little water into the belly
at the cockpit. Find the low point between the cockpit and Station 9
where it collects, and install four grommets, one close to each side of
each stringer, at that point.
NOTE
Eliminating moisture traps in the fuselage and wings of
ANY airplane, wood or metal, is very important. With
grommets as easy to install as they are on this type of
construction, it is better to have too many than too few.
Put grommets on any fabric areas, and drill holes in any
closed wood areas that look like they might become moisture traps if the plane is caught out in the rain. The
original FLY BABY has been stored outdoors for nearly two
winters at the time of this writing and has not suffered
any structural deterioration from trapped watero
..,"\
-
15.
There is no need for inspection rings in the belly, but they are convenient as a means of cleaning out the dirt that will accumulate in
the belly. Install two or three in the cockpit/seat area and one
back toward the tail. To clean out the belly, remove the inspection
cover and sweep the dirt out through the openings.
16., The belly area between the forward fabric anchor at Station 2 and the
firewall is covered with a single piece of ,020 11 or thicker aluminum
sheet cut and bent to fitn The front of this piece slips under the
bent-back bottom of . the firewall and the sides and rear are held in
place by 3/32 11 machine screws through 90-degree nutplates which are
held to the longerons and the fabric anchor by small wood screws.
It is best to save installation of this forward belly plate until the
very last, after the brake cylinders and brake lines are installed, so
that the proper cut-o'\:'.,? can be madeo
Page 7-13
�FINISHES
Nitrate dope, Butyrate dope, lacquer, and plain enamel take all right on
wood and fabric areas. For metal parts like the forward turtledeck and
cowling, however, the coloring should be put on with ENAMEL, not dope or
lacquer. It is not necessary or even desirable to chromate the sheet
aluminum of the leading edges. Fuselage metal areas that do not have fabric laid over them should be cleaned well and sprayed with a light coat of
zinc chromate primer and then enamelled. The wooden landing gear legs are
colored, so should not be varnished. Pigmented dope will give all the
protection needed. The reason for covering plywood with fabric is that
any crack in the paint, easily caused by flexing of the wood, allows moisture to get in and undermine the adjacent paint. Once exposed, such areas
will not take touch-up paint patches well.
REGISTRATION NUMBERS
The rules have been changing around a bit on this subject lately, so you had
better check with your FAA inspector before getting to this final stage. At
the time FLY BABY was built in 1960, the owner had the option of putting
his registration number on his airplane two ways. The first was in figures
a minimum of 20" high on the UPPER RIGHT and LOWER LEFT wing, tops toward
the leading edge and the figures centered between the leading edge and the
aileron, with the same figures repeated on each side of the rudder or vertical fin a minimum of 2n high. The second application was to each side of
the fuselage only in figures a minimum of 12" high. At that time, the
option of the two methods was to expire at the end of 1965, after which the
fuselage numbers only would be mandatory. At this writing (December, 1963)
it appears that the mandatory change has been dropped and the owners can
still use either application. However, CHECK ON IT.
SPECIAL MARKINGS
There are certain other markings that the FAA insists on. Gas tank caps
are supposed to be painted red, and either the gas c~ or an area adjacent
to it is supposed to be painted with the capacity of the tank in U.S.
gallons.
Since all amateur-built airplanes are licensed in a subdivision of the
"Experimental" category, regulations require that the status of the aircraft be displayed alongside each entrance in figures at least 2" high.
This requirement was adopted before the little homebuilts entered the
scene, so the 2" figure is somewhat impractical. As long as the word
appears where it can be seen easily as the occupant(s) enters the airplane, the FAA inspector should not object. For cabin models this means
alongside the door, not on it where it will be out of sight when the
door is held open, and on each side of the cockpit on open types like
FLY BABY.
Page
7-14
�_____ ......-
SECTION 8 - ASSEMBLY, TEST, AND FLYING
This chapter covers several different areas of FLY BABY construction and operation but all have been c onsolidated into this one chapter to avoid having a
number of small chapters on the separate subjects ~ Some of the work described
in ·::,;i:i ~- ·" ·t , 3 \J ·Ler ·:r: 7 1 have to be completed before the covering described in
Section 7 can be accomplished?
WING WIRE FITTINGS
Before the airplane can be assembled for rigging, the fittings for the wires
must be made. Detail ttAn of Figure 8-1 shows the landing wire terminals that
fit through the Station 3 fittings shown in Figure 1-20. These are made from
3/16" steele While S, A. E. 4130 grade is preferred, especially if extensive
aerobatics are anticipated, ordinary mild steel will do. Be sure to make one
RIGHT HAND and one LEFT HAND fitting when bending the steel.
Since you may use somewhat larger turnbuckles than called for, lay four wing
wire turnbuckle ends over the flange on the Detail "A" drawing. If they won't
fit, make the flange wider. Note that TWO 1/h" holes are drilled in the narrow
pa.rt of the terminal. These are stop holes to use during the fo7r1ing process.
The first hole from the big turnbuckle end holds the wings in c? cr .-· oped position
after the turnbuckle is removed. The second keeps from drooping more than .a ·
very small amount when the turnbuckle is removed. This is usually used for
demonstration of one wing folded while one is still extended.
Detail "B" of Figure 8-1 shows how the barrel of the AN-150-801 Master Turnbuckle is drilled with an extra 3/16 11 hole at right angles to the hole a]Teady
in the barrel and close to it. The purpose of the extra hole is to allow the
barrel to be turned a quarter-turn at a time by inserting a four-inch 3/16"
bolt, a small screwdriver, or long nail into the hole and using it as a lever.
Detail "C" shows the four wing spar pins, which can be made at this time. Use
1/2 11 bolts (AN-8-24) with the ends ground to a taper a.s shown. The welded-on
handles make it easy to insert and remove the pins. Have the safety pin _hole
in the tapered end of the spar pin line up with the handle. This will greatly
simplify insertion of the safety pin during unfolding for flight.
The wing wire anchors of Figure 8-2 are made as shown. The mounting bolt holes
are for 3/16 11 bolts,. If you plan extensive aerobatics, drill for 1/4" bolts,
keeping the edge ma.reins on the anchors the same as for the 3/16" bolts. Again,
it is important to take care, during the bending operation, that you make RIGHT
HAND and LEFT HAND fittings. For the fittings on the upper surface of the wing
the leading wires are fastened permanently to the fitting by Nicopress sleeves
and the turnbuckles are attached to the wire terminal at the fuselage. On the
underside of the wing, the turnbuckles on the flying wire attach to the wing
wire anchors a.nd the lower ends of the wires are attached to the clevis pin
on the end of the axle by Nicopress fittjngs as shown in Figure 2-5,
When installing the wing wire anchors on the wing, it is necessary to put 1/4"
pads under the anchors to bring them up even with the tops of the_ rib cap
strips ,., This can be done several ways. One is to use a piece of 1/4 11 plywood per Detail "A" of Figure 8-3 cut to match the fl2t portion of the anchor·.
To use a single piece this way, it will be necessary to cut out a section of
Page 8-1
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the front spar fil le r s t r ip shown i n Fi gure h- 2~0 As an alternate, two
separate pieces of pad c an be i nstall ed , one on each side of the filler
stripo These pads r ·,.st be i nsta lled before the l eading edge metal
covering of Chapter 7 can be applied ◊
1
i
I
I
Ii:
A desirable modification to the l a nding wire anchors on the TOP of the
wing only is shovm in Deta i.1.. 79 BW 9 cf Fig-1re 8-J c Two and a half .years of
rough use on FLY BABY have s hown a t endency f or the AN-1 . >
thimbles
reinforcing the land i ng wires t o bend where t hey pass through the anchors
because of the small area of t he point of contact o Small strips of mild
steel r ounded as shown and brazed ont o th e edge of the anchor will provide a greater contact area and elimi nate t he problemo
The wing wire anchors are bo l ted in pl ace with 3/16 11 bolts (1/4" if you
expect to do extensive aerobat::.r· ·) before setting the airp l .:;J1. e u.p f,r
wing rigging ~ After the wi res are installed, the anchors are removed for
the covering operation and t hen ar e reinstalled e
INITIAL FIT OF WING TO FUSELAGE
This is one of the mos t i mport ant j obs in the whole project and is best
accomplished as a two-man opera t ion o I t may have to be done outdoors to
allow full-span assembly of the ai rplane ~ A pair of wingtip supports as
sho~m in Figure 8-h or a pai r of sawhorses should be available. It is
not necessary to raise the fuselage of the airplane to a level-flight
attitude, although this does pr ovi de more room for working under the belly~
1.
Before fitting wings in place , drop a perpendicular from the top surface
of the upper longeron t o t he bottom of the bottom longeron at Stations
3 and 5~ If the fuse l age has been built correctly, the dimensions
should be as shown on the two perpendiculars of Detail " · ·,, Figure 8-6
Whatever the dimensions, -~-,.!-<.e: a note of theme
2,.
Move one wing panel into position alongside the fuselageo Slots for
wing spar fittings in De r.)ail "D" of Figure 1-7 must have been cut.
Insert spar fittings into slots and push wing inboard as far as it
will goo Have helper at wi ngt ip raise tip to proper dihedral angle as
determined by dihedral j-'~ g board of Detail 11 A" , Figure 8-4 .
4.
Use 11 cn clamps to hold wing spar fittings lightly to Stations 3 and
when wingtip is support ed e Be sure that Root Rib No o 11 is tight
against side of fuse l a ge at both f r ont and .rear sparse
5
Check wing alignmen t first with a carpenter ' s square to see that the
leading edge is square with the fu sela ge ., If it is not, loosen clamps,
pull wing out, and s quare up by t r imming appropriate areas of cap
strip on fusel age side of Rib No ., ll o That' s what it's there f c• .,
If win g does not s quare up becaus e of ~isalj gned spar butt s , don 1 t
try to trim the spar " Pull t he 0 Shor t 11 spar outboard a bit, and rec lamp the fitti ng t o the fus elage station .. The gap will be easy to
fill latere
6.
Repeat Steps 1 through 4 fer opp osit e wing () Make a second alignment
check by running a wir e or non-stre~ch string from a fixed point on
the top of the vertical £in t o matching points on each wing tip bow.
_____D_i_s_t_a_n_c_e:--s-_h_o_u_l_d_b_e_e_a_u_a_1_"_-- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -··--·---------·'
Page
8-4
�t
. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -·,!.
I
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/
FlGUR~
Wlf<e
8-3
A"-lCHOR'
DETA\LS
----·-----···--·-··-·~····-- -··-··---· - - - ~ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~
_ll=-====-~~~~:;;..
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8-5
Page
8-5
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FIGURE. 8-4
WlNG
,...,,__ ...., _. __
_
_.
___ _
W\NG
MAKE
RIGG\t,JG
·- --
~,,r\
S~\JJED 01=,=.
TlP SLYPPORT
l -~ BROOrv\ i:sTlC ~~
________________________
- ~ -- --__,;...,
�- - - - ---------•-- ·- ·---·---- - - ----· - -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
NOTE
Minor variations in the dihedral angle will affect
the fin-to-wingtip distancesJ so be sure that the
dihedral is exactly the same for each wing ..
7.
With both w'ings i:-1 place; check their 3ngle of in:;idence relative to
each other by sighting along the airplane centerline from a point 10
or l.5 feet in f:-ont c: the plane~ Lcosen clamps holding spar fittings
to Stations J and 5 and adjust .spars upward or downward until both
wings have the same angle as shown J_r, Detail "A" of Figure 8-5 ~
8.
Using the dimensions obtained i. S uep l .~ determine the distance that
the bottom of the fron~ spar where it bu7ts against the fuselage is
ABOVE the bcttom of the rear spar at the same point~ For fuselages
built to ~orrected drawings, the bottom of each spar should be just
about even with the bott.cm of the lower 1.ongeron$ On fuselages
built to the original uncorrected drawings with the "FixH of compensated fittings on the wines, the b c ttom of the rear spar may be as
much as /w. below the longeron~ The ar.tual distance is not important,
but the anEle of the hottom of the wine relative to the fuselage level
line, known as the angle of incidence) is impc!"tant? Measured relative to the top of the upper longeron., the bottom of the front spar
should be between J/L-" and 1-1/2 11 ABOVE the bottom of the rear spar,
preferably the greater dimension~
NOTE
The winL a~gle cf jncidence can be adjusted through a
small range by sliding one set of spar fittings up er
dovm the app·r-opriate fuselage station until the fi ~tings
begin to bind ~
9.
With wing squared and at proper in::idence; mark through spar pin holes
in the spar fittings, remove wings, and drill 1/2n holes through
Stations J and 5 for the spar pins. The positions of the spar pin
holes shown in Figure 1- 6 are as used on the original FLY BABY" Minor
variations by individual buiJ ders can be expected to result in slight
deviations from this dimensicn.
10..
Reinstal 1 wings and fasten to Stat~i ons 3 and 5 with spar pins of
Figure 8-L Pins should fit .freely through holes in spar fittings
and fuselage wood ~
11.
Re-check alignment and incidence of wings
Minor corrections can still
be made by removing pin) positioning wing correc t ly _~ clamping spar fit.tings to station, and adjusting the hoJ e ; n the v\O od to the new position
by enlarging it in the proper direction with a round wood rasp •
c
. NOTE
Keep careful track of any such relocation of spar pin
holes throueh the wood.
I - - -.....
r
Page 8- 7
�--------------------------~·-·
..
I
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"BAB'' f F LcW
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FlGURE
WjNG
$ STABILl ~ER
SE. TT l "-J(~S
Fa go >- 0
�12~
Remove wings and ~3refully enlarge spar pin holes in the wood to take
steel tube bushings o The outside diameter of the bushings should be any
convenient size, but the inside diameter must provide an easy, almost
loose, fit for the spar pin~ The bushing must be a drive fit into the
wood c Before cementing it in with Pliobond, bevel the inner face of
each end of the bushing with a round file.
NOTE
Ends of bushings must be flush with or at most 1/32"
inside the faces of Stations 3 and 5. Don't worry
about the loose fit of the spar pins. When the w>g
brace wires are tightened up, the pins will be in so
tight that they can hardly be turned by the handles,
much less pulled out~
RELATIONSHIP OF WING TO HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
· ~ flying characteristics of an: ~- ; lane are greatly dependent on the
relationship of these two surfaces. Once established, the angle of incidence of the FLY BABY wing is fixed and cannot be altered without major
effortQ Achievement of the proper angular difference between wing and
tail is then accomplished with the stab lizer.
As shown in Figure 3- (_ ' , the . . it ting attaching the REAR stabilizer spar to
the fuselage is even with the top of the upper longeron while the front
spar fitting is a short distance below. Best flight results on the original
FLY BABY were obtained when the sum of the distance that the bottom of the
front wing spar was raised above the bottom of the rear spar PLUS the distance that the top of the front stabilizer spar was below the rear spar
totalled 1-7 /8 11 o See Details ·
and ' · of Figure 8-6~
NOTE
When adjusting ~he stabilizer to achieve the correct distance totalj remember that the front stabilizer spar
fitting moves on arc with the single bolt of the rear spar
fitting as a center, so don vt just lower the front fitting
relative to the upper longeron when drilling bolt holes
for a new position~
~l ~i ftlGGING
1~
With the wings installed with the pins and the tips suppl ~ted at the
right dihedral angle, cut suitable lengths of 1/8" stranded stainless
steel wire frc .. the parts list of Cr ·_;,ter 4 for eight flying wires and
eight landing wires. Determine the lengths by measuring from the wing
wire anchors to the fuselage wire terminal and the clevis pin on the
end of the axle, allowing a foot to a fo, ~ and a half of extra length
for handling.
i
I
------- ·---.. I
Page 8-9
�NOTE
Hav:ing this much excess length may seem wasteful
to a professional, but this stainless steel wire
is stiff stuff, and working with short ends will
give L1e 20.at.eur grief all out of proportion to
the financial saving of shorter wireo
2.
;r..stall an AN-130-J.ffi turnbuckle on one end of each of the sixteen wires.
Wire passes through one side of Nico sleeve, around thimble in eye end
of turnbuckle, and doubles back through Nico sleeve before being swaged
in place per procedures described in Chapters 2 and 4. This job ,can
be done by one man working at a bench with a vise.
J.
Install landing wire te::-mln.s.l and master turnbuckle per Figure 8-1
and run turnbuckle up tight so that shoulders of terminal are tight
against the Station 3 fittings.
4.
Install landing wires first, starting by attaching the turnbuckle ends
of the wires to the wire terminals at Station J with 3/16 11 clevis pins.
NOTE
Have four threads showing at each end of the turnbuckle barrels.
5.
Starting with the REAR landing wire on the FRONT spar, fasten free ends
of landing wires to wing wire anchors after installing AN-100-4
thimbles on the anchors. This is done best as a three-man job, with
one man holding the wingtip steady and two working on 1;,he wire attach
and Nico press job. After rear front spar landing wire on one wing
is attached, the front wire can be attached. · This sequence is used
becam:;.e it is easier to vrnrk on the second installation when it is
between the first installation and the person doing the job. ALL the
front spar landing and flying wires should be installed before starting
on the rear spar wires .. Again, the wire farthest · from .the worker should
be installed first.
6~
Working on one wing at a time, gradually tighten the turnbuckles by hand
until the wires are fairly tight and the turnbuckles can no longer be
turned by hand. Tighten matching wires on opposite sides of the same
spar together so that wing is not warped by uneven wire tension. Figure
8-5 slK ;- s the desired "Flat" setting of the wing for installation and
the "Wash-In" and "Wash-Out" that can be put in later by adjusting the
wiresQ
7. With the turnbuckles tightened as far as they can be gotten by hand, plus
about two turns added using a nail through the hole as a lever, check
the alignment of the wing against the tip of the fin again. Any change
from the previous check will probably be the result of a slight difference
in the dihedral of wing panel compared to the other. This can now be
corrected with the turnbuckles.
8.
Hook up ailerons per instructions in Chapter 6, Page 6-7.
9.
C:i:1plete wing root construction per next paragraph.
Pa ge 8-10
�COtPLETHJG T~-8
varm STRUCTURE
Before removing the wings after rigging the wires, complete the construction of the vnne; root structure left uncompleted in Chapter 4. There are
apt to be minor variations in wing-fuselage intersection angles by various
builders as a result of the early Station 3 and 5 position errors in Figure 1-1. Since the trailing edge of R.ib No 11 is built in position to
fit, there is no ~roblem,
i
l ,
Cut a trailing edge rib the same length as the standard trailing edge
ribs t o fit a lon g the
· -~ of th(~ fuse 12 [e te;-1~ r.'.ci ·eihe re2r :::: ·-,E :-·, The
point at the trailing edge should rest on the loffer edge of the lower
longeron
In most cases, a standard rib installP.d upside down should
do the j oo.
2,
Rerr.ove rib after being sure it will fit, and glue and nail l/4" cap
strip to the fuselage side of the rib to continue the cap strips already
on tte forward portions of Rib No. 11. Reinstall trailing edge rib 3nd
hold it in place temporarily by najline; to side of fuselage.
points 4 inches, 8 inches, and 12 inches aft,. the rear spar, build
full-depth l/8 11 plywo c .;_ t ercostals in place., These will vary in depth
and top and bottom angles due to rib thickness and different angles
between Ribs 10 and lL Construction is similar to intercostals of
Figure 4-25 except that 1/4" square stiffeners are built onto the bottom
as well as the top ~ Drill ventilation holes in plywood webs before
final installation, and cut drainage notches in bottom corners per
Detail w_-·, of Figure 8- 6 , Attach intercostals to each rib with corner
blccks 1Jt: r Figure 4- .--·:-' and Detail ·:, · of Figure 8- 6 . Atta.ch rib with
a corner block notched to fit over the spar fitting.
J . At
4,
When glue on intercostals has dried, remove wing from fuselage. Cover
bottom of wing between Ribs 10 and 11 with 1/8" plywood, grain running
chordwise t~.,--i accommodate slight twist at trAiling edge. Bevel inner
face of trailjng edge to fjt top plywood sjmilar to Detail np._n of
,_,,it•.. ,
·
Varnish inner faces of ribs and bottom plywood before
installing top plywood, and mark non-glue areas of top plywood and
varnish.
5.
Install top plywood, also with grain chordwise. Metal trailing edge
of wing can now be permanently installed. After wing has been covered,
mark width of plywood from front spar to point 12" af t =. f rear spar as
a walkway , It is safe to stand on wing root in this area.
6,
Reinstall wing for a final alignment check and check of wing folding
procedure.
FOLDING THE WINGS
Figure 8-7 illustrates the sequence of wing folding from the flight position.
This job can be done by one person workine; alone jn between five and ten
minutes, with a lcrt of getting in and out of the cockpit. For the first
demonstration for the EAA contest judges, t·c ·; ~;r iginal FLY BABY was taken
off the '. .. 'iler made ready for flight by one man in 20 minutes. Helpers
speed the operation up considerably.
Page 8-11
�--- ··· - ·
- - --- -- -------It is not necessary to loosen any but the ~aster turnbuckle at StBti on 3
for the wi ng folding and unfold i ng oper;::it:i on ? Wing riggi ng fa exactly
the same after ea ch operat ion when the sholJ]rlers nf the wing wire terminals
are i;:,ulled tight aea iDst th e Stati.on 3 term:i nal s hy the master turnbuckles.
··- - - - - -
- -- - -- .. -- - -- - ----- -- -
L
Get in t he cockpit and disconnect the aileron push rods projecting into
the f us elage f r om t he wi ngs from the outboard ends of the aileron
contra 1 liriks .
2.
Loosen the master turnbuckle until the wings droop enough to let the
flying wire slack off. Insert a small bolt, large nail, or small screwdriver in the stop hole in wire terr : L :.i.J nearest master turnbuckle to
prevent viri ngs from drooping too far and to hold one wing un when other
is removed .,
3~
Remove safety pins and remove shackles holding bottom ends of flying
wires to the ends of the axles.
h ~ Get out of the cockpit and prop up wingtip with wing tip support of
Detail w:, 11 of Fi gure 8- l-1 or have helper hold wingtip up.
co 8kpit, uns afely wi ng pins and remove.
5.,
From inside
On left wing only, disconnect rubber connections to Pitot and static
tubing if it has not been left lone enoueh to accommodate t he folding
operat i on
Rer.iove clevis pin holding wire ter"' ~:· ~, l to master turnbuckle.
Get out of cockpit again, or have helper pull wing away from fuselage
until wing spar fittings and aileron push rod clear side ~l ~ ~d stop on
hinge rod halts further outboard movement.
c
(
6~
Rotate wing about hinge rod until wing is edge towa.rd ground per Detail
7 .; Swing wing aft like a gate per Detail
f 11 and drop pin projecting from
leading edge i nto hold in leading edge of stabilizer per Detail"?"•
Push hinge rod back into fuselage until wing bottom is flat against the
side of the fuselage.
With
back
with
wire
9.,
10 .
r
wing pins and master turnbuckle removed, it is not necessary to get
into cockpit to prepare other wing for f ,_lding. Raise tip enough
support to permit removal of nail or screwdriver from stoo hole in
terminal, and repeat Steps 5 through 79
Pick up loose flying and landing wires and tie to aircraft before towing
it or putting it on trailer ,
Spreading wings for flight is exact reverse of the folding procedure.
WEIGHT AND BALANCE
It is har ,·: to say just what your airplane should weigh, as different engines
and equipment will have their effect. The origi.nal arbitrary gross weight
of 908 ponnds was obtained by adding the standard 175 pounds for one pilot,
84 pounds for 12 gallons of gas, and 36 pounds of haggage to the original
empty we j eht of 605 pounds. When ;m 85 HP ene;ine was substituted for 65 HP
and fuel rRpMrity w;is incre;ised., th8 weie;ht w;is raised to 925 pounds. With
floats, t,hA e:ross wBs set at ?50 rounds. Actually, with an 85 HP ene;ine, a
gross weight up ~c 1000 pounds is structurally safe althoue;h the landing
speed will incre2se some and the load factor for Aerobatics will be decreased.
~----------------------------------------Fi gure 8-12
�F'GURF
8-7
p;~c-,~- i:.DU1-r_C
t=0 1_Df "1G
VJ\~(:,
®
L t.:~L\'P S,C? BOl_T \~TO
~E..COt-J0 ~TOP HOLE' OF
LAiNDIMG WIR.E A~CH·C.>R..
2. , CSL~CK OF'F 1-Ml~
TUT~NBuC..KL2 _
f
I
,i
~M.OVE CLEVtS Pl>J A.lJ _~:.
!
t> tSCOtJJ tJ E,~T St\.AC. K\..E
HOLD lNi6 ~LJ\.CKeD - O~F
i
FLY\~G, W~RES TO LAtJOW6
i
~eA~
(se.l=.
i=1EuRt.
-z.P.~::S-
4.
_DI SCONtJECT AiLERON
· PlJS~ RODS ~ REMOVE
'Alf t\JG SPAR Pl~S
5. REMOVE
CLE.VlS
PIN
,, PUL\... Wt'-'6
·®
---➔
,n----
--
~J- _.. - Lt=======~c-°"
OU\'~
WAl<DS \0 STO'"P
0~ EMO 0~ lt.OO,·
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8E
C.LE~B
FlJ~·ELAG~
or:_
l
I
�FOLDl~(=7 ·-
,____________ __ Wlt\lG
I
PROCE.DURE. (CONT D)
7,, ROTATE. Wll\16
TO
VERTICAL 'POS tTIO~
,,,
(ROD tl\J TUBE
A.S PlVO,)
0)
..
8. SWltJG
Wl~6
AFT
lR-O:D-'TO-wl~G
A.CT5
."
AS
~C..TS
so1-r
PIVOT) -
9. CROP Wt"1G TIP PJI\J
JN10 · HOLE 1"3
S.TA"B\L\eER (SEE
. F\GLIR."E. ~ - l.3 )
®
Page
8-14
�.
---- ---· . ·- ·· --- - - ------- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -···--·- - ----
Before the a irnlane is flown~ it should be given a weight and balance c ...
FAA Manual 18 ;hows the proc~dure .. Any conve:miP.nt point ahead of the wheels
can be used as the d~tum, or reference point. Since it is a vertical surface, the front side of the firewall is excP.llent for the purpose, but the
cowling will have to be removed
Add the di st,a · ~e from the datum to the
leading edge of the wing to the measurements on the wing chord to get the
center of gravity (CG) limits di rect .. . y in in ~hes aft of the datum
G
q
The CG, or balance point, should be between 18 .,.5 and 31.5 percent. of the
mean aerodynamic chord (MAC), which for FLY BABY means between points 10
and 17 inches aft of the leading edge of the wing. Actually, the airplane
has been flown to extremes of 15 and 35 percent (8.10 to 18 .. 9 inches) with
good controllability, but these are not recommended. The prototype FLY
BABY has done most of its flying with the CG at 23 o3 percent MAC, or 12-1/2
inches aft of the leadir
, ~~e ~
This is a slightly nose-heavy condition,
which is preferred to a ::>.1..J.gntly tail-heavy condition ..
Pilot weight is a self-correcting cohdition. Short pilots will move the
seat forward, thereby compensating for their lighter weight. Trim change
between a full and nearly-empty fuel tank is very slight, at least not
enough to justify installation of an elevator trim tab.
LEGAL PROBLEMS AND PAPERWORK
All of the legal angles and paperwork problems associated with owning and
operating an airplane come as quite a jolt to those who are encountering
them "Cold" and for the first time. Homebuilts, properly called Amateurbuilt _aircraft, have a few extra operations that are specifically their
own, but th
· .:rall situation is pretty much the same for all classes of
aircraft.. When -YOU know about each item in advance, it ' s no longer a
painful suprise or a problem - you just have a collection of chores to be
taken care of one at a time. Use the various items tabulated below, which
are arranged in approximate chronological order, as a check list. First,
however a fevv- comments on specific rules rel,gting to homebuilts:
j
First of all, you do NOT have to be a licensed mechanic to build or maintain
a home-built airplane - Th i s is part of the 11 Recreatj on and Education" aspect
of the Amateur-built categoryo Licensed mechanic friends can help and give
advice but cannot siED off the work. It js ;:i good idea, however, to have a
mechani~ go over the engine prior t.o each annual i.nspection if it is a
standard type-certificated item, for this can be transferred to a "Standard"
category airplane. The quality of the amateur work is assured by the fact
that the airplane has to be inspected TWICE by FAA inspectors before being
flown and inspected again by FAA before each renewal of the Airworthiness
Certificatey Major repairs must be inspected and approved by FAA and surfaces to be recovered without repair should be inspected and approved before
applying fabric or wood~
Homebuilts are normally licensed for Visual Flight Rules (VFR) day flying
only, so don Rt wire up and put in an electrical system for lights.
Since homebuilts exist for recreational and educational purposes by FAA
definition, you cannot rent yours out but you can let anyone you feel is
qualified fly it and buy the gas~ Homebuilts cannot be used in furtherance
Page 8-15
�------------ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - of a business or for compensation, such as delivering merchandise or being
flown for pay in an air show. Commercial flying schools cannot use them as
school equipmenL A pilot can use one as personal transportation on a
business trip but not as part of the business.
A homebuilt airplane can be sold by the builder as a single example. You
can sell the firE-t FLY BABY you build, but you cannot legally sell a duplicate or even a modified version using the same name or model number. The
buyer of a completed homebuilt can sell it, and it can be resold repeatedly,
but be sure that the paperwork is handled properly. A partly-built homebu i lt can be sold by the builder, and the buyer usually completes it under
his own name. For his protection; the original bt.ilder should provide logL _1d~ data, receipts for materials purchased, clear title to engine, etcc1
NOTE
Regulations covering the sale of homebuilts are up for
revision at the time of this writing (March, 1964) so
check on it with EAA or FAA. Since ALL rules are subject to change, check EVERYTHING, using this section,
which is up to date at the moment, as a guide.
It is an FAA requirement that the FIRST flight of an amateur-built or other
experimentR 1 airplane be made by a licensed pilot with a rating appropriate
to the airplane to be tested. For FLY BABY, this meDr:s a pilot with at least
a PRIVATE license and the rating of AIRPLANE - SINGLE ENGINE LAND. Student
pilots CAN fly homebuilts when their Student Permits (FAA Form ACA-340) are
signed off by a rated flight instructor for the particular make and model
of airplane involved.
NOTE
It is not recommended that just-soloed students try to fly
homebuilts. The designer feels strongly that an absolute
minimum of 35 to 40 hours of flying time is required to
give a student the proficiency and experience needed to
handle a small and "lively" airplane safely. The instructor has the rP.sponsibility in this matter and must ·have
confidence in the student since he cannot ride along with
him for a check ride in a single-seater.
1.
LOGBOOK
FAA requires one for each airpla·,i e and one for its engine. These can be
bought at most aircraft supply stores. EAA (Experimental Aircraft Association, not to be confused with FAA, the Federal Aviation Agency) 0° :; :s
airplane logbooks specifically designed for homebuilts. The logs are
important 1:-- :=.;J°!_ documents and must be kept accurate and up to date. Log
ALL repairs and malfunctions, no matter how minor~ You are not doing
yourself, the FAA, or homebuilts in general a favor by "not bothering
anyone" about your problems. The information is essential oo that FAA
can accumulate experience on homebuilts and get a better understanding
of their operation with a view toward simplifyfog the regulations that
apply to them.
Page 8-16
�Prior to each application for Airworthiness certificate, the builder or
owner of an amateur-built plane must conduct a complete insryection and
make a logbook entry to the effect that the plane has been inspected
and that he considers it airworthy, along with total flight time tc last
ins pect i on and total flight time to date. The inspector will make his
own entry in the book. The logbook does not have to be kept in a homebuilt at all times as 5_;.~ is supposed to be in standard air ::; :naft because
the airworthiness certificate indicates its current license status*
2•
MAKE AND MODEL
FAA also requires that each airplrne have a name and model number. This
can be either BOWERS FLY BABY I or plain FLY BABY I. If you have made
modifications of your own, you may want to call it SMITH-BOWERS FLY BABY,
or even SMITH FLY BABY I. Your own name is used for the actual maker's
name o
J. SERIAL NUMBER
Another FAA requirement. Since this is probably your first airplane,
you may want to give it 3erial number One. However, this =s apt to
result in a lot of FLY BABY airpla~-:es with the same serial number, even
for Smith-Bowers variations. The designer will issue non-conflicting
serial numbers free on request. Please enclose a self-addressed postcard with your request.
4. NAMEPLATE
The information of (2) and (J) are
along with the name and address of
EAA sells standardized plates that
include space for all the required
5.
required to be on a metal nameplate,
the builder and the date of completion.
identify Amateur-built airplane and
information plus data on the powerplan t.
PRE-COVER INSPECTION
An FAA ENGINEERING inpsector must look over the structure and approve it
for covering. If he requests extensive changes, he will probably want
to make another inspection before authorizing the cover job. Have him
make a notation of his approval in the logbook,, This will protect you
in case there is a change of inspectors in your area and a different man
gets into the act at a much later date.
6,,
REGISTRATION NUMBER
Every airplane must have one. This is the number that is painted on the
airplane (see Page 7-14) and does NOT go on the nameplate., Numbers are
issued free by the nearest FAA District office, in which case you take
the next one on their list. For a special, apply to
Examination and Records Division, FAA
621 North Robinson
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
A ten-dollar handling fee is required for special numbers.
your number, it is merely ASSIGNED to you.
your airplane is a separate procedure.
When you get
Getting it REGISTERED for
Page 8-17
�(
7.
FAA Form 500, available on request from FAA offices. This is a triple
for -!. backed with a carbon copy~ The od ginal and Carbon of Part "A" is
forwarded to FAA recorder at Oklahoma City wi th $h ~OO registration fee~
· Part "B" is the actual application for registration ,, The original is
sent to Oklahoma City and the carb on is kept i n the airplane until the
Part "A" original is returned. Part "C" is a Bill of Sale which does
n.J t apply to the builder of the airplane unless he sells it after it
has been registered to him.
8.
REGISTRATION CERTJFICATE
This is the original of Part "A" of Form 500, validated by FAA and
returned to you for permanent display in the aircraft for as long as
you own it ,, The word "Display" is a legal requirement, so don ' t hide
the pafX3r n
9.
AFFADAVIT OF ORIGINAL CONSTRUCTION
Since the builder h 2 s no
Bill of Sale to sh o tr...: ~-, ne bought an existing
airplane, he must write a letter to FAA Records ·Division at Oklahoma City
stating that he built his airplane from raw materials and used parts.
Give make, model, and serial and registration numbers. This letter must
be notarized.
1
:~
A special problem comes up in connection with building your own.
Many
states tax airplanes as personal property or by excise tax. For standard
types, they go by a "Blue Book" of established values, but may apply an
unfairly high value to a homebuilt on the general impression that airplanes are expensive. Save all of your receipts for raw material and
purchased equipment, and figure the value of your airplane for this
purpose at the going market price for the materials and (mostly secondhand) equipment. With proper papers, you can prove your point.
10 o
THREE-VIEW DRAWING
Since homebuilts are highly individualistic and are not mass-pr ~s~ ·~d
m1der controlled specifications on file in FAA Engineering offices,
sufficient information to visually identify each homebuilt must be submitted with the Application for Registration ~ A three-view drawing or
a variety of photos of the completed airplane is acceptableo The drawing
on the second page of this document is intended for this purpose ~ Extra
copies are available from the designer for fifteen cents , two for a quarter
AND a stamped, self-addressed envelope.
11.
RADIO STATION LICENSE
More and more homebuilts are using battery-powered radios, and all aircraft carrying radio must have a station license. This is obta i ned on
a Federal Communications Commission (FCC) Form 404-l instead of from
the FAA. Needless to say, the operator should have a Radio Telephone
permit, Form 753-3, also obtainable from the FCC~
Page 8-18
�12.
ASSIGNED TEST AREA
FAA requires that all experimental aircraft, factory as well as homebuilt, ~ly off a test peri od in an assigned test area .. For homebuilts
powered with Type-certificated airp l ,· ,, engirn~s, this period ~ __ 50
flight hou r s. If the engine is non-certificated, like a converted
automobile engine, the test period is 75 hours . (This is up for change
at the time of this writing, March, 1964, and may be reduced t o 50 hours.)
Ch0~k with other home-builders in your area to find the accepted areas,
t ··,c : '. :vri te a letter to the lac al FAA Air Traffic Supervisor asking for
the use of it. If you are the first to apply for one jn your area,
there may be some delay as the supervisor checks around to find an
area that meets FAA 1 s considera.ble requirements in the matter. Normally,
use of the area is assigned for a specific period of time, such as six
months for a new airplane or two weeks or a month for a previouslyapproved plane that has been modified and has to prove out the alteration .-
13 o
APPLICATION FOR AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE
FAA Form 305 obtainable from FAA.
The Engineering inspector will probably
bring one with him when you ask him for final inspection af your airplane,
and it can be filled out then~ Information required is self-explanatory~
l4o
FINAL INSPECTION PRIOR TO FLIGHT
This is the second required inspection by FAA. It is most logically performed at the airport when you have the airplane ready for its first
flight after completing ground tests. The FAA Engineering Inspector w .. l.l
look it over, check proper operation of controls, look for the nameplate
and the carbon copy of the Application for Registration, general safe
features a·nd quality of the work, and may AV~n ask you to run the engH 3 ..
If all is OK, he will issue Operating Limitations and an .•irworthiness
Certificate, make a logbook entry, and stand by for the first flight.
If he doesn't like something, he'll tell you to fix it, so it's to your
advantage to be sure that everything is up to standard before calling
for the final inspection.
15. OPERATING LIMIT AT IONS
A paper typed up by the FA.A Engineering Inspector prior to the first
flight to tell you what you can and cannot do with your airplane~ This
will vary somewhat for different airplanes and o:9eratin g areas and must
be kept in the airplane along with the Registration and Airworthiness
certificates. Some of the initial limitations may seem severe., but they
are justified by the experimental nature of an untried airplane. Mo st
can be revised later.
16.
CERTIFICATE OF AIRWORTHINESS
FAA Fann 1362B issued by the FAA Engineering Inspector after 'h,- ;-,as
satisfied himself that your airplane IS airworthy. Normally these
certificates, which must be displayed in the airplane with the Registration, are issued for a period of one year. Application for renewal
Page 8-19
�is made on another FAA Form JOS. The certificate becomes invalid if the
airplane is altered in any way; and a statement to this effect is usually
written into the operating limitations. Changes call for re-inspection
by FAA engineering and a new certificate~
NOTE
Initial and annual inspections of homebuilts for issuance of
airworthiness certificates MUST be done by FAA inspectors
and cannot be done by Designee Inspectors.
17.
J. ·~~CLICATION FOR MODIFICATION OF OPERATING LIMITATIONS
The builder applies to FAA Engineering by letter for modification of the
initial operating limitations after he has successfully completed the
required flight te st time in the assigned area. The inspector will want
to see the logbooks, and may want to witness a demonstration flight to
see that the airplane meets certain controllability requirements. New
limitations will be written to eliminate the area restriction and other
special limitations, but certain limitations applicable to the Amateur, built category will be retained.
Normally, the FAA Engineering Inspector is through with your airplane
at this point. Subsequent inspections and relicensing are the responsibility of the FAA Safety Inspector in the same area. However, if you
make modifications to the airplane, they will have to be approved by
Engineering and may require a proving-out period in a designated area
again. Such a change as putting on pontoons for seaplane operation
resulted in a 10-hour test period on the original FLY BABY while a
change to a non-certificated engine in another homebuilt resulted in
the full 75 hours to prove out the engine.
18.
ACCIDENT REPORr
Not pleasant to think of, but something everyone should know about, as
many pilots unintentionally get into trouble through ignorance. An
accident report, FAA Form 2400, must be filled out for any accident
resulting in damage over $300 (changed from $100 at the end of 1963)
and for any accident, regardless of damage, in which anyone is injuredo
For homebuilts, play it safe and report anything, even a forced landing.
If the plane is damaged, permission must be obtained from an FAA Safety
Agent or Inspector to move it, so don't quietly haul the plane home and
end up having the inspector looking for you. Depending on the circumstances, he may want to look at the ship on the site, so donvt move it
unless you nosed it over on the runway and are blocking traffic. Explain the situation carefully when notifying him by telephone, and he
may authorize removal without actual inspection.
GROUND TRANSPORTATION
The folding wing feature of FLY BABY wasincorporated to meet the EAA design
contest requirement for storage at home rather than at the airport. This
meant that in addition to fitting into the standard-size garage, it had to
be transportable over public roads without special permits.
Page 8-20
�Covering the distance between home and the airport can be accomplished in
two ways - by hauling the airplane behind a car on its own wheels or by
carrying it on a trailer. The original contest requirements called for the
airplane to be able to withstand towing speeds up to 40 miles per hour. At
this speed, it was considered practical to tow it on its own wheels, with
the tail fastened to a standard trailer hitch on the rear bumper of the car
through a detachable trailer tongue bolted to the rear of the fusela .
To
make the complete airplane legal as a trailer, the original version of FLY
BABY was wired for standard trailer lights, which were connected to the
automobile electrical system through jumper wires. Tail, stop, and turn
lights were built into the wing root rib so that they faced to the rear with
the wings folded, and side clearance lights were built into the upper surface of the wingtips. A special bracket for the license plate, with wiring
for white lights, could be hung under the nose, and the entire arrangement
was legal under the trailer requirements of ··, Le State of Washington except
for fen ders over the wheels.
A few trips from home to an airport 20 miles away proved that .using the
airplane as its own trailer at any practical speed, in heavy traffic, or
with strong winds, was very impractical. Since the instruments are almost
directly over the wheels, end the pivot point is at the rear of the car,
they take a terrific beating on rough roads. Since the load on the airplane
wheels is relatively light, the whole thing sways in the wind and takes a
big jolt from the slug of high-speed air following fast trucks and busses
travelling in the opposite direction in the adjacent lane.
While a trailer may seem like a lot of extra work and expense, it makes the
t~ansportation job much easier and ismuch better for the airplane. The
original FLY BABY has made two 4000-mile cross-country trailer trips when
well tied down, but this cannot be considered normal procedure. The whole
purpose of the folding wings and tow-home feature is for short-haul trips
from the airport to the builder ' s home in good flying weather---not major
cross-country hauls through storms and high winds.
Practically any standard boEt or glider trailer can be converted to a flattop type for carrying the plane. If a small boat-trailer winch is installed
at the front of the trailer and board ramps are built to reach from the
rear of the trailer deck to the ground, one man can load the airplane onto
the trailer by himself by running a. line from the winch to the t:::1; 2. skid of
the plane and pulling it up the ramps tail firsto
When the plane is on the trailer tail-first, or is being towed on its own
wheels, the control stick should be held full back with the seat belt and
battens should be fitted to the fin and rudder to keep the moveable tail surfaces from being forced beyond their normal limits by the reversed air flowo
For towing in strong winds or at speeds above 40 MPH, it is a good idea to
batten the horizontal tail surfaces too~
When on the trailer, the main wheels should fit into permanent chocks on the
trailer deck to keep the plane from rolling ahead on the trailer or j i ~~ : ~ng
sideways. On the setup used for the original FLY BABY, tt i r ~3 ~. l wheel fits
into a box built onto the front end n~ the trailer to restrict all fore-andaft movement. For short hauls in normal weather, the weight of the plane is
enough to keep it in place on the trailer, and it is not necessary to tie it
down. For long hauls, tie it wello For all hauls, tie the wing roots tight
against the side of the fuselage 'by tying a rope across the front (lower)
spar fittings under the fuselage and tying across the rear (top) spar fittings
over the top of the fuselage.
Page 8-21
�?RELIMINARY TEST ING
Testing is a practically continuous process that goes on throughout the
entire construction of the airplane. Just holding one part up against
another to see that it fits is a test. When moving parts are installed,
their movement should be checked to see that there is no interference with
adjacent parts, that the controls rods or cables don't chafe, etc ~ Some
of the preliminary testine of the finished airplane can be done without
the wings on and some requires full assembly.
FUEL FLOW TEST. If your tank is installed per the drawings and the right
size tubing is used, you should have no problem here. Use same size fuel
lines as commercial airplanes equipped with the same engineQ To be sure of
good flow rate in maximum climb attitude, dig a hole for the tail wheel so
that the ground angle of the fuselage is steeper than when in the regular
three-point position.
ENGINE CONTROLS TEST.. The throttle and carburetor heat linkages and -i:.,!-le
fuel primer can be checked without the engine running, but carburetor heat
ducting and adjustment, throttle stop settings, and hookup of tachometer,
oil temperature, and oil pressure must be done with the engine running.
This should be at least a two-man job, with a competent operator in the cockpit. Have chocks in front of the wheels, and the control stick FULL BACK
if the horizontal tail surfaces are installed. If the tail surfaces are not
on, thei the aft end of the fuselage down. The FAA requires a one-hour
ground run of the engine at speeds up to full throttleo This must be entered
in the logbook. Full-throttle engine speed, called "Static RPM", will depend
on the particular engine-propeller combination you are using, climb prop or
cruise, etc., so check w~th experienced people for nroper values. Maximum
RPM' s around 2000 for 65 HP engines and 21.50 to 22CO for 8.5 ' s is about right o
Engine should idle to 500-600 RPM with a metal propeller.
BRAKE TESTING. Since brakes are used for steering the airplane on the
ground as well as for stopping motion, they are used separately and should
be tested separately~ · This is a minimum of a two-man job. If wings are
not on, jack one wheel off the ground. While one man spins the raised
wheel, man in the cockpit applies that brake pedal. 'The wheel should stop.,
Repeat the procedure for the opposite wheel. If the wings are on, a third
man can simplify the procedure by lifting one wingtip to get a wheel off the
ground.
TAIL WHEEL STEERING TEST. The tail wheel stBering mechanism doesn't work
well when the airplane is standing still on the ground} so the best way to
check steering is to have a helper lift the tail by the leading edge of the
horizontal stabilizer while someone in'- the cockpit works the rud der pedals
(lifting by the leading edge of the stabilizer is the r~ason for the extra
cross piece between stabilizer nose Ribs 3 and 4). The ~ail wheel should
fo~low. the rudder movement.
PITOT STATIC_ SYSTEM TEST. The left wing has to be on for this test, again
done by two people. - With romeone in the cockpit to observe the instruments,
the man at the pitot tube CAREFULLY blows into the pitot tube. Airspeed
needle should rise off ze·ro .. As the blower holds a constant pressure, needle
should stay steady, then return to zero as pressure is released~ =f needle
Page 8-22
�creeps back to zer o 1rl1e n ) re s sure is held, check system for leaks
To
test static system, suck carefuJly on static tube. Altimeter need~e should
raise from zero, airspeed should tend to move to a negative reading, and
if a rate-of-climb is installed, it should indicate climb. Altimeter should
hold steady when pressure is held, but rate-of-climb needle should creep
back to zero.
e
TAXY TESTING. This is the last testing done before the first flight, and
will check out a lot of things canvt be determined except at close to flight
speeds. Start out slowly, however, to check brake action, tail wheel steering and wheel alignment~ Keep the stick FULL BACK during taxy testing, and
don't have a lot of speed when you hit the brakes. Watch your oil temperature
during the slow taxy tests if you have installed a closed cowling. The J-3
Cub scoops as used on the original FLY BABY provide excellent cooling for
all speeds and attitudes.
Before starting the high-speed taxying, be sure that the wings are rigged
"flat" per Detail "A" of Figure 8-5, and that the wires are tight. Use as
long a runway as possible, although the test can be done on a taxiway. Be
sure and get the airport manager's permission in either case. The testing
consists of fast dashes down the runway with the tail off the ground but
with not quite enough speed to fly. This will check out the proper setting
of the stabilizer, the rig of the wings, and the low speed operation of the
airspeed indicator. Rudder effectiveness can also be checked, but take it
easy. If there is a noticeable tendency for one wing to drop, add "WashIn" to that wing. Have an outside observer note the position of the elevators as you go by at about 40 MPH. If the elevators are fairly closely
aligned with the stabilizer, the rig of the ship is safe for flying.
Several high-speed runs should give you a pretty good feel for the ship.
Get used t ·o how the ground looks from the cockpit. If you are used to
larger planes, it will take some getting used to, but will help you avoid
the too-common mistake of landing a homebuilt too high up on the first
flight. Donit get carried away at this stage - it's awfully easy for an
honest bounce to develop into an actual flight. If the inspector hasn Yt
OK'd it yet, this can lead to a serious deterioration of the relationshipe
NOTE
If any discrepancies show up during the taxy tests, correct
them before making the first flighte
FIRST FLIGHT TEST
Since the FAA inspector will want to witness the first flight of your FLY
BABY, be sure that everything is ready for him so you won't waste his
valuable time with a lot of last-minute fixese First, be sure that YOU are
qualifiedo Regulations say that the first flight of a homebuilt must be
made by a pilot with a private license who is rated in the airplane, so for
FLY BABY on wheels this means with SINGLE ENGINE LAND rating. Skill will
not·be a problems If you have obtained a private license, you have enough
skill to master the docile FLY BABY. If you are still on a student permit.,
let someone else hop the ship for you the first time and don't fly it yourself unless you have at least 30-35 hours and can make good landings in a
Page 8-23
�plane like a Cessna 140 or Luscombe BE. An instructor will have to sign
your student permit before you can fly your FLY BABY even though you did
built it yourself ~
Next, be sure that all the "Musts" are taken care of, using the following
as a check list:
Engine run-up in logbook
Registration Certificate in place
Airworthiness Certificate in place
Designated test area approved in writing
Nameplate installed
"Experimental II lettered alongside cockpit
Registration numbers on airplane
Instrument limitations marked*
Weight and balance check
Rigging checked by fast taxi tests
Permission of Airport Manager to make test (he may
want to close the field to other traffic for your
first flight)
Full fuel tank
Ordinarily, since FAA works a normal five-day week, the test will have to
be made on a week day. While this will mean that the builder has to take
time off from his job, it has certain advanta.ges. Experience has shown
that many of the builder's friends will want to be on hand for the first
flight. They probably won't want to quit work for it, so this relieves
the builder of the need to notify everybody. Also, there are other benefits to having few people around. A crowd, with everyone anxious to see
the bird fly, is a _serious psychological handicap to safe testing. Its
very presence puts pressure on the pilot to go ahead with the flight in
spite of little deficiencies that would ordinarily cause him to postpone
the test in order to get everything perfect.
The same can be said of weather. You'll have enough unknowns to contend
with without having to fight rough flying weather too. Sudden gusts or
a tricky cross-wind may just make the difference between a successful first
flight and an accident. The less your skill and experience, the better the
flying conditions should be.
*
Tachometer "Red-lined" at 23.50 RPM for 65 HP Continental engines, 2575
for 85 1 s; oil temperature to 160 degrees; oil pressure 30 to 40 pounds.
Red line the Airspeed Indicator at 135 mph for the standard FLY BABY.
Figure 8-24
�Parachutes are not a requirement, but even though no strenuous maneuvers
should be tried on the first flight, it is a good idea to wear one, even
for the straight-ahead lift-offs to get used to doing things with one on.
Before taxying out to fly, be sure that the gas tank is FULL. While it
may seem desirable to reduce weight for the first flight, it is far more
important to be sure of obtaining maximum fuel flow, especially at that
critical pull-up.
The first few "flights" should be more dashes down the runway, with landings straight ahead. This will be "slow flight", with the nose high and the
stick fairly well back, and will give a final check on rig, trim, balance,
·and engine operation. The higher speed will also check the carburetor
operation during acceleration. Too low a float level may cause skipping
that will be accentuated during climb. Re-check the fuel supply before
making the first flight out of the pattern. A lot may have been used up
during taxying and ground runs.
Be very cautious during the first real flight. Climb out at a fairly
shallow angle with the speed well up. Open the throttle slowly on the
takeoff run, get in the air, then level off and let the speed build up
before climbing. Since there are a lot of unknowns involved and it may
be necessary to land quickly, stay close to the field until you have
plenty of altitude. Don't try to integrate a first test flight with normal
airport traffic. Wait until the pattern is clear, and have the airport
manager's permission to make several circuits within the pattern.
Check carburetor heat in the air SLOWLY. If the system is too effective,
it may kill the engine. When satisfied that the engine will keep going and
that it is safe to get away from the field, leave the pattern and head for
the practice area to try a few GENTLE turns to feel the ship out.
It won't matter whether the airspeed system is accurate or not . on this
flight as long as it is functioning. Try a few straight-ahead power-on
stalls, and note the airspeed at which the plane stalls for future referenc~. If the wings are properly rigged, there should be plenty of aileron
control through the · stall and no tendency for one wing or the other to
drop. Develop a feel for the attitude of the plane at the stall. Practice slow flight to get the feel of the plane just before the stall. After
doing this, set up a few power-off glides at an airspeed about2OMPH above
stall and then do power-off stalls and again note the stall speed.
Don't worry about speed runs or extensive maneuvers on this first flight.
It's mainly a functional and rigging check. Save the actual performance
evaluation for later.
The safest way to come in for the first landing is to slow-fly in well
above stall speed with the nose high, flying it right down to the runway
and then cutting the power to land three-point. Depending on your own
skill and previous experience, you may want to make a power-off approach
or a wheel landing. The main th:ing is - play it safe.
Page 8-25
�ADVANCED FLIGHT TESTS
After the controllability and proper trim have been established, there should
be no problems at higher speeds. Just to be sure, however, work up to high
speed gradually. Check control surfaces for freedom from flutter by displacing the control rapidly and then releasing it. The original FLY BABY
is flutter- free to 150 MPH, the highest speed tested, but individual workmanship differences or modificati ons might make a difference. Since recovery
from a spin is made by diving, save the spin test for the very last so you
know the airplane can be dived safely.
CALIBRATING THE AIRSPEED INDICATOR
It is impossible to get a simple airspeed indicator system that will read
with absolute accuracy over the full speed range of the airplane. The best
that can be done is to come up a good average. Actually, the low end of
the scale is the most important because much flying is done at just a little
above stall speed. For the first few fli ghts, remember the figure indicated at the straight-ahead stall made on the first flight and keep all operations well ABOVE this number for safety.
Flying alongside other airplanes is a poor way to calibrate the airspeed
system since the accuracy of the other plane's system may be way off. If
it is a faster plane, it will be flying at a high angle of attack to slow
down to your speed while yours is flying at a lower angle, a fact that
will result in different indications for the same actual speed.
The surest way to calibrate is to make timed runs over measured distances
at an altitude under 1000 feet on a smooth day. Pick a convenient course
parallel to the winde Crosswind components will make the actual distance
flown SJ mewhat greater.. Al~o make one pass up wind and one down for each
speed and average the two. Make passes at several speeds between high anq
low~ Fly the various runs against TACHOMETER READINGS, and hold them constant for the full length of each run. Altitude must be constant throughout the run. Sometimes the extreme low end of the range can be calibrated
by slow-flying alongside a car driving down the runway (be sure and clear
this method with the airport manager). This is how the hS mph landing speed
of the original FLY BABY was determined.
Minor corrections can be made by bending the end of the pitot mast or by
fastening a washer to the static mast head ahead of or behind the static
holes.
FLYING CHARACTERISTICS AND PILOT TECHNIQUE
No two airplane models fly exactly alike, and very seldom do two individual
aircraft of the same model fly alike, especially homsbuilts that are subject
to considerable detail variati on, intentional or otherwise. Pilots who have
had experience with other homebuilts, especially ones of smaller wingspan,
will have no problems at all in checking out in FLY BABY. Pilots without
any experience in homebuilts, and who have flown only "Cubsn or the various
Cessna trainer models, have quite a bit to get used to without benefit of
a check ride • .
Page 8-26
�Takeoff usually provides the first surprise. Being a smaller and lighter
plane but still having the same power as heavier models, either 65 or 85
HP, FLY BABY has considerably better acceleration. On a full throttle takeoff run, the pilot of FLY BABY is apt to find himself about ten feet in the
air at the time when he would just have the tail well up for the ground run
in a Cessna 140. For the first few takeoffs, it is best to iet the tail
come well up and have the plane run level to bu j_ld up a safe margin of speed
over stall before easing back on the stick. This also gives better visibility over the nose. Quicker takeoffs can be made by keeping the tail
fairly low and letting the plane fly itself off at minimum sneed. Level off
to let speed build up, then climb.
•
At full power, the nose will tend to swing to the left if the tail is raised
too quickly. This is the result of gyroscopic precession of the propeller,
and is more noticeable the higher the ratio of engine power to airplane
weight. The effect is relatively minor in FLY BABY, but may catch you by
surprise if you are only used to Cub-type airplanes. You' 11 soon get used
to feeding in an increasing bit of right rudder as the power increases and
the tail comes up. It will also be necessary to hold right rudder pressure
in the climb when the power is above the cruise setting and the airspeed
is below cruising.
(
Keep the speed well up during . the first few climbs and pull the throttle
back only a little way from wide open. Climb RPM for 65 HP should be about
2100 and for 85 HP it should be about 2250 - 2300 with a "climb" prop.
Until you have the feel of the plane well established, keep the turns in
the pattern banked fairly shallow and do everything with a safe margin of
speed.
If FLY BABY is properly balanced and rigged fore and aft, it should be able
to fly "Hands Off" in smooth air. If the nose tends to drop, it should rise
of its own accord as the speed build·s up.. Smooth shallow turn entries can
be madff merely by steering with the feet. With wings in proper lateral rig,
the stall should break straight ahead, and there should be aileron control
well into the stalL If not, wash the wingtips out a bit per Detail "C" of
Figure 8-5 or rig the ailerons to trail high about one-half inch.
Controllability is excellent for all maneuvers, and entry to and recovery
from sideslips is rapid. The spin cha.racteristics of FLY BABY are good when
properly rigged, meaning that it has to be forced into a spin and then comes
out all by itself. However, just because it won't fall into a spin doesn't
mean that it won't hit the ground just as hard out of a low-altitude stall,
so don't get eareless on tight landing approaches~
One characteristic that is hard for people to get used to is the slacking
off of the landing wires under flight loads. It 1 s impossible to eliminate
this completely, so don't try. Even such "Big" aerobatic wire-braced designs
as the Ryan PT-22 and ST do it. It doesn't mean that the wires are loose
and that the wing is just rattling around between two limits. The slackingoff of one set of wires results from slight stretch in the opposite set.
The wires will also surprise you with the noise they make in power-off glides.
Coming down in a small homebuilt is something else that pilots familiar only
with larger "Floaters" will have to get used to. FLY BABY and all of the
Page 8-27
�other small ships really come down fast, sometimes as much as 1000 feet per
minute power offe This calls for steep approaches. It will be easy to
determine best gliding speed for minimum rate of descent from a few practice
glides at safe altitude, but this is not the speed to use for power-off
approaches in the patterne Come in at least~ 10 or 15 mph faster than this
indicated minimum sink speed, which is itself considerably above the stall
speed .. This is called "Approach Speed 11 .. As you get close t o the ground,
apply back pressure to the stick to slow down a bit, to achieve an "Over The
Fence" speed still considerably above the stall. Use power if you are going
to end up short or feel that the rate of descent is too fast. Keep feeding
in back stick to convert the energy of this surplus speed into constant
altitude above the runway as the speed decreases. Speed is needed to get
the tail down and bring the wing to a high anele of attack for low-speed
touchdown attitude, or "Flare". The stick should be full back just at this
time on a perfectly-timed landing. If the power-off approach is too slow,
the plane will not flare and hold off, but will increase the rate of sink
and drop onto the runway .. The principal cause of bounces on power-off landings in planes of this type is touching down wheels-first with excess speed ..
The tail drops, the nose is pointed up, and with flying speed, it heads skyward a.gain.
If the plane has been levelled off a bit too high, it may bounce slightly,
especially FLY BABY with its rigid gear. However, unless the bounce is a
real rough high one, don't try to fly out of it with throttle. Keep the
stick full back and leave the throttle alone, and the ship will settle on
and stay. The small ships won't float the full length of the field like
the "Floaters" if brought in a bit too fast. If the ship IS bounced high,
give it full throttle and it will very likely stay in the air, thanks to
its fast acceleration&
Now I 1ve told you all that I can about FLY BABY. It 1 s your baby now. The
kind of service it will give you depends largely on the kind of treatment
you give it. I, and other builders who have not yet completed their own
FLY BABIES, will appreciate pictures and flight reports on your airplane.
Good Luckl
'\
Page 8-28
�DRAWING CORRECT[ONS
For various reasons, some dimension errors got through on the final plans of
FLY BABY. Those listed below are all that have been found so far (December,
1963), with a "Fix" worked out for the bem~fit of those who have unknowingly
built the fuselage error into their plane.
Figure 1-1 ~ No po i nt in making a new drawing here; the changes are so small
that they don't show~ Along the top longeron, starting at Station 1, change
the 26" dimension to 25-1/2", change the 53" dimension to 52-1/2", and change
the JQtt dimension to j,0-1/2".
Figure 1-3.
Change the 2" dimension in Detail
"A" to 2.-3,14".
Figure 2-5. Change the 6 1 l'' dimension in Detail "B" to 61" and change the
second item in the parts list on Page 2-2 from 73" to 61" 1')
Figure 4-J. For fuselages built to uncorrected drawings, make new front and
rear spar fittings as shown in "A" and "B" below. The offset spar pin holes
compensate for the fuselage errors. For corrected fuselages, trim all eight
spar fittings to the dotted lines of the upper figure. (This page)
Figure
4-4.. In face-to-face length table, change 25-3/16" to 25-13 /16 11 •
Figure 4-28. Change 1-1/2" dimension from top of spar to center of swing
link support to l" antj when installing aileron push rod, have the welded
link support tube on the BOTTOM of the push rod instead of Qn .the tnp
"iff!cf:'f·,,.. ,f,
,·.,7.. -r·"'f:t(.•.'
When building fuselage to
corrected drawing, trim
wing spar fittings t.,
to the dotted
lines sho'V!.!l.
Revised fittings shown below
are "Fix" for fuselage.· built
to uncorrected drawi~~ Only
the tapered ends of t~ese
fittings are changed.
A - Forward
Addenda
~
_.
-
-,.
♦
---
B - Rear
Page 9-1
�-WHERE TO GgT MATERIALS
(
Many builders have written in since these plans began to circulate to ask
where to get the major materials. It seems that "Marine Plywood" is a rare
commodity in some parts of the country, as is aircraft _grade spruce.
As pointed out at the end of · the introduction, the pages of SPORT AVIATION,
official magazine of the Experimental Aircraft Association, contain advertisements for most of the materials that you need. Unfortunately, not all holders
of FLY BABY plans are members of EAA, so do not see the magazine. Others who
are members may prefer to buy their materials locally instead of by mail.
The plyw-ood does NOT have to be marine gradeo It has been found that a good
grade of EXTERIOR fir plywood is -practically the equivalent of marine. Minor
differences in quality and strength will have no effect on the integrity of
the finished airplane because the 1/8" plywood parts are considerably overstrength anyhow. In· most places, 1/16" plywood would do the job just as well
with a little less weight, but woqd that thin comes · only in aircraft grades,
which are quite expensive, about a minimum of $.60 per square foot. · Eighthinch plywood was chosen because it is the thinnest size available in Marine
and Exterior, which can be had starting at $.25 per square foot. Since the
first FLY BABY was built, it has been found that mahogany plywood exterior
door panel material is excellent for the purpose. Some of this is made in
Japan and is available through lumber yards and construction companies at
very reasonable costo
NOTE
If you are having your slotted cap strips made at a mill
or cabinet shop, send a sample of your plywood alonge
There is considerable variation in the thickness of 1/8"
plywood, and the slots may end up being too wide or too
narrow unless cut to fito
WOOD
You can buy your wood in planks and saw it to size yourself or buy it partly
or completely finishedo The following firms are not recommended because
they are superior to any other, but because they have the reputation of
delivering good quality material at fair prices.
Go Na Aircraft, 13921 Aspinwall Avenue, Cleveland 10, Ohio.
Puts out kits of finished wood partso Certified Aircraft grade Sitka Spruce
kit for FLY BABY, to quote their ad in SPORT AVIATION, includes: Spars milled
and beveled, aileron spars, leading edges, rib material (slotted cap strips
for FLY BABY), corner blocks, and stringers. Price quoted in June, 1964,
is $188091, FoO.B . Cleveland.
Aircraft Spruce, Box 521, Encino, California
I
(
Puts out kits of semi-finished certified spruce parts. This means stringers
and longerons cut to finished cross-section, but spars milled to thickness
but not beveled. Prices somewhat lower accordingly.
Page 9-2
�Posey Manufacturing Co., Hoquiam, Washington
Will supply spruce in plank form or finished and varying degrees in between.
Write to Howard Frans for quotations. This is where the spars and the
slotted cap strips of the original FLY BABY came from.
Home Builders Center, 1100 West Nickerson, Seattle, Washington
Source of Marine plywood for many of the Northwest Amateur Airplane builders
(Home builder in this case refers to houses). Makes up "FLY BABY PLYWOOD
KIT" that sells for slightly over $80.00 plus crating and shipping.
METAL FITTINGS
Many builders have written to ask if they can buy ready-made metal fittings.
Robert JQ Taylor, 621 Denham Road, Rockville, Maryland, has offered to supply
them. Write to him for quotations.
FLYING WIRES
The 1 x 19 stranded stainless steel wire is not regular aircraft equipment~
and will not be found in aircraft stores. It can be found in heavy equipment stores in most cities. One manufacturer is the MacWhyte Company, of
Kenosha, Wisconsim. They maintain offices in many cities that can supply
you from local stock. Notice that this material is STRANDED WIRE and not
FLEXIBLE AIRCRAFT CABLE, which is used for the control systems. Control
cable has considerable stretch to it, and should not be used for wing
bracing.
MISCELLANEOUS
Baxter 1 s Tri-B Salvage, P. o. Box 1542, Yakima, Wahington, sells much of
the miscellaneous material that is needed --- Cub gas tanks, instruments,
wheels 3 brakes, tubing, plywood, etc.
THE TWO-SEATER PROBLEM
Practically since the FLY BABY program began people have been asking if it
can be converted to a two-seater. While the designer has argued strongly
against it, he is forced to admit that it CAN be done. However, before
undertaking the project, the builder should realize that much more is
involved than the simple act of making the fuselage wider to squeeze in
a passengero The change is a major one, and many sacrifices must be made
in other areas for the one questionable advantage of being able to have
someone with you when you fly.
(
First, there is the performance loss that results from the increased weight.
Structural weight will be increased a few pounds by the widening of the
fuselage, extra weight of wider seat, additional controls, etc. The major
weight increase will come from the 150 to 200 pounds of the passenger. If
the same wing panels are used, effective area will not be increased, although
efficiency will be increased somewhat by the increased wing span that results
from a fuselage that is now two feet wider. The effective wing area is still
Page 9-3
�the same, but the wing loading has now been increased from 7~5 pounds per
square font to about 9~J. This has a very serious effect on the takeoff
run, the rate of climb, and especially on the landing speed.
Second, the load factor is reduced if the wing spars and longerons are
left the same size ~ The increased weight, rate of sink., and landing
speed make the rigid landing gear, which is entirely satisfactory for the
single-seater, a somewhat marginal proposition. Redesigning the landing
gear to incorporate shock absorbers while still providing a rigid anchor
for the flying wires is a major problem.
Third, to maintain good flight characteristics and controllability, the
span of the horizontal tail surfaces must be increased to at least 10 feet.
This puts the span above the allowable trailering width, so the horizontal
tail must either be removed or incorporate folding tips if the plane is to
be towed or trailered from the airport for storage at homeo If the horizontal tail is removed, the folding wing feature is compromised because the
folded wings rest on the horizontal tail.
Now there are some relatively simple fixes that can be used to overcome some
of these disadvantages e One of the mo st obvious is to add wing area by increas i ng the win g span, but this introduces still othRr problems . First,
the load factor is decreased sti ll farther i f the same spar size is retained.
Increasine the span outboard of the wire attach point decreases the torsional
stiffness of the wing in that area, but moving the wire attach point outboard decreases the supporting angle of the flying wires and increases the
strain on them beyond the increase already resulting from the higher gross
weight$ Lengthening the wing further complicates the wing folding problem
as the tips will not clear the stabilizer brace wires. Using heavier spars
to maintain the load factor adds still more to the gross weight and cuts down
:arther on the performance. Trying to offset the increased takeoff run and
decreased rate of climb and cruising speed by using a more powerful engine
runs the weight up still more, to say nothing of the cost, besides requiring
a larger fuel tank to get the same range at the higher fuel consumptione
Another way to overcome the aerodynamic shortcomings is to increase the
available lift coefficient by adding flaps. However, this seriously compromises the basjc ~implicity of the FLY BABY, which is one of its main
features
e
You will notice that this two-seater discussion has considered only the sideby-seating arr angemente This is by far the simplest way to do the job from
a structural standpoint. If you must, build the fuselage sides by the
methods shown, and merely space them an extra 24 inches apart on assembly
and widen the landing gear accordingly. Even so, th ere is the problem of
obtaining or building an entirely different engine mount in order to use the
established front-end construction and engine mount attachment method, the
need to cross-connect two control stick assemblies, dual rudder pedal
assemblies, and the rearrangement of the engine controls os they are access~ble to both occupants.
The problems of converting to a tandem two-seater are considerably more
difficult. While it seems logical to merely add another cockpit in the bay
behind the present cockpit, this brings up serious balance problems. The
Page
9-4
�passenger cannot be carried here, for when the plane is flown solo, the
balance will be way out of limits when weight that far from the center of
gravity is removed. The pilot has to occupy the rear seat under such an
arrangement, which means lengthening the nose and moving the engine forward
so that this new and permanent aft-located weight is properly balanced. This
means revised nose structure. In addition, the fuselage has to be widened
by nea ~:y a foot anyhow so that the pilot's feet and rudder pedals can be
located alongside the front seat. The logical spacing works out to place
them just there and nowhere else. The horizontal tail surfaces on a tandem
should be enlarged to a size even greater than that required for the sideby-side because of the increased longitudinal trim problem.
To summarize, the designer stoutly maintains that the costs of converting
FLY BABY to a two-seater far outweighs any anticipated advantage. You just
can't make anything but a mediocre two-seater out of a good small singleseater. FLY BABY ha.s proven its superiority as a single seater in the areas
of short-field performance, climb, and maneuverability with 65-85 HP engines;
Please don't spoil a fine machine by trying to make it into something that
it was never intended to be. While it will take some time to develop it, the
designer of FLY BABY is working up another all-wood design that is designed
from scratch to be a two seater and will incorporate the features necessary
to give the same docile performance characteristics that the single seater
has now.
PONTOON INSTALLATION
11.:..L,,: ;;1..,_ ilders have written in to ask about the availability of pontoon draw-
ings for FLY BABY or other homebuilts. Sorry, but these do not exist. FLY
BABY was first flown as a seaplane on an ancient set of Edo Model 990 floats,
the smallest size they made, which proved to be very marginal. See SPORT
AVIATION, issues of Ai.:g~:. st and ~temcer, 1963, for full details,, A set of the
next larger size, Edo Model 1070, has been obtained and will be tested as
soon as possible. However, the disadvantage to the average builder is that
these floats have been out of production since about 1936 and are almost
impossible to obtain. The designer of FLY BABY intends to build and test
a set of wooden floats especially designed for other homebuilders to build
and install on FLY BABY or other representative homebuilts. However, this,
like all other recreational projects, will take time. Plans and installation
instructions will be made available at reasonable cost, but it is absolutely
imposs.ible at this date (June, 1964) to say when.
t/P.~ CORRECTIONS
?age
1-2, 1/8" x
41
x 8 1 plywood, not 8° plywood.
Figure 1-2 (Aft), 21 11 dim. from rudder post to Detail
11
I 11 should be 19-1/4 11 •
Page 1-18, in Note, it's No. 1 Former, not No. 2.
Page 2-1, 2nd paragraph, 5th line, 61 11 , not 73 11 ..
Page 2-2, wing parts list, 48 each sleeves and thimbles, not 240
Page 3-2, 2nd item on "Hardware" list is 6-1/4", not 6 1 4 11 •
Figure 4-4, top and bottom holes on Comp. Rib end are 3/16", not 1/4".
Page 9-5
�LAST MINUTE ADDITIONS
SOMETHING THAT NEEDS FIXING - After three year~•~ operation from very rough
fie'lds, the tail wheel spring leaf on the originR.l FLY BABY broke just aft of
the rudder pest~ Local stresses are induced at this point by the absence of~
back1.1p spring.. Make a short backup ·~ ·•·i ng as shown by "A" in the illustraU en~
tapering the rear end for about two inches. The resistance of the backup spring
spreads the stress in the main spring and avojds fRt.ieue and failure at a stress
concentration poinL Secure the backup sprine t.o the m;:ifo by tieht metal clamping or ta~k welding in the "dead" area ahead of t.he rurlder post.. Make the
spacer at the bottom of the rudder post thi.cker t.o accommodate the backup spring .
SOMETHING LEFT OUT - Step 4 of the instructions on page 6-24 tells how to hold
dovm the front end of the canopy with trunk latches~ There wasn't enough
room left on Figure 6-1.5 to show this. Requests have come in for an illustration, so here it is, Item
"B" .
REPLACEMENT DETAILS - On all copies, the top portion of Figure 6-4 was illegible when it came off the press..
in the illustration.,
F=WD Et.JD OF AFT
TU'RTLE.t>ECK
The lost details are redrawn as Item ''CH
iA1
:
:
I :
AtJ4--12 BOL1
5/IG'' ROD E~D
~E~Rl~G WITI-\
1
V4' . TL.\ RE.~ D
WELD
T\-\RE.ADS TO 1"'
Page 9-6
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Pag
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Step f.
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ADD
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Manuals Collection
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<a href="http://t95019.eos-intl.net/T95019/OPAC/Index.aspx">The Museum of Flight Library Catalog</a>
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The Museum of Flight Library Collection
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Manuals Collection/The Museum of Flight Library Collection
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Manuals Collection
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MANACT.B67.F59.3
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LMAN_text_056
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Manuals Collection/The Museum of Flight Library Collection
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manuals (instructional materials)
Title
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Bowers Fly Baby : model 1A / design and instructions by Peter M. Bowers ; drawings by James A. Morrow ; typing by Marlene Lemire.
Alternative Title
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Cover title: Fly Baby builders manual
Contributor
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Peter M. Bowers (Firm)
Bowers, Peter M.
Morrow, James A.
Lemire, Marlene
Publisher
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Seattle, Washington : Peter M. Bowers
Description
An account of the resource
<p>Third printing dated October 1965.</p>
<p>"Winner of the 1962 Experimental Aircraft Association Design Contest for a Low-cost, Easy to Build and Fly Sport Airplane" -- Title page</p>
Table Of Contents
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Contents: General arrangement drawing and photographs -- Introduction -- Fuselage -- Landing gear -- Tail surface -- The wing -- Powerplant installation -- Miscellaneous installations -- Covering -- Assembly, test, and flying.
Date
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1965
Subject
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Bowers (Peter M.) Fly Baby 1A
Research aircraft--Design and construction--Handbooks, manuals, etc.
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Manuals Collection
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1 volume (various pagings) (some fold) : illustrations ; 29 cm
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Copyright undetermined